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Poly hives are very robust indeed, that is the proper poly ones... namely Swienty to name the one I use.

PH
 
OK, so what would be the best method of taking them on the trailer such as tie them down, are they sturdy enough to just rest against the lip around the outside of the trailer.

Has anyone any idea if close proximity raises the likelihood of robbing or other problems.

I believe Swienty can be bought from S Devon but are they reliable people, in fact are there other suppliers of Swienty hives in the UK.
 
Sorry I have to chuckle here.

Swienty are very reliable yes. Relax.

How to secure the hives? Now please be serious and do some real joined up thinking eh? How can I advise you on that when a, you (it appears) have never seen a poly hive, and b, have not yet got your trailer?

When the act is a bit more together let us know?

PH
 
"Joined up thinking"

Tells me to gather information, advice, know-how and experienced views from knowledgable, intelligent people BEFORE jumping in.

The trailer will be built around the specifications required by the hives and any advice I glean now, as will the purchase of suitable lashing, other accoutrements and innovations.

But thanks for the suggestion that I should buy it all first and then ask for advice before cobbling everything together. I will try to find the answers to my questions from someone else.
 
Play nice boys.

I would affix a wooden shoe at each hive position to locate the hives on three sides of the floor and then strap each individual hive. If I was regularly moving a fixed configurarion, then I would ensure a consistent height for traveling and make a template to fit/locate over the top of the hives. The shoe could of course better bound the base on four sides. It only needs to be an inch or two high.

They aren't going to be close packed, so an overall strap won't be much use, but if you have a skeleton template on the top - think egg box - then that can be strapped down and keep all your hives/eggs in place.

Of course, if you find the YouTube clip from Hedgerow Vlad just recently, you could build an angle iron cage structure, but my suggestion is a bit more free format and allows you to offload the hives and have a fully functional trailer very quickly.
 
It happens in Eastern European countries.

One suggestion might be to book your next holiday in one of those Eastern European countries that do it and ask them, or look to see how some of them do it?

I know of a commercial beekeeper that moves his hives around on a specially modified trailer. I think he off-loads his hives (at least some of them) so has a custom designed trailer for that purpose.

I would have thought you would use twelve of your existing hives to sort out the logistics and test out polyhives in the coming season(s).

I might even suggest you call in at Quince honey farms and see what you can glean from them (I believe they move quite a lot of hives around the area).

Hope that helps a little.

Regards, RAB
 
ok, lets try again.

12 hive brood boxs when full will weigh around 30 kg lets be safe and call it 40 kg,
40kg brood boxs times 12 is 480kg, thats half a ton in old english still way under the three ton limit, even if you were to travel with three supers on which you wont because they fall off, it still would be around 20kg per super three per hive plus brood =100kg, times twelve thats still 1200kg or one point two tons, plus the kalf ton of the trailer dont forget so 1.7 tons

so forget they weight limit rubbish people keep talking about as we are well under what a normal eastate car can tow let alone getting a landy rover involved, so now we have sorted the weights and i am sure someone will argue with that

the trailer is better off with a solid base that the hives can be tied down to or screwed to, the guy i used to work for in wales, who used to use a set up of a doxen of these trailers, had the trailer base built out of timber battons mainly 3" by 2" and they were set out that each hive base had two under the edges of the brood box plus a piece of thick ply with the mesh cut into it, just like a normal hive stand would, this also allowed him to use when he wanted to rachet straps all the way around

next each hive was made from wood, home built rough jobs not nice new ones, the base panel was screwed to the timber frames first , then stacked on top was the rest of the boxs, the only differance was each corner at the top of each box was a simple steel bracket, a bit like one of these http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Structural/Builders+Metalwork/d210/sd2797
Corner Stretcher Plates


these kept the hive is place and stopped it sliding around or twisting the straps were used to take it from one crop to another.

management wise we used to take the trailer to the next crop depending on what was in flower and when when set up we used the corner steadys of the caravan and then removed the wheeels to prevent theft and some times unbolted the towing eye as well

we would then add two supers on top of each brood box. the lot was left alone for a week and when inspected we would check the supers for fullness and go through the brood boxs, personaly we used to only ever use two supers per hive, removing either full supers as and when, or we would take say four full frames from one hive and and some more from the other hives to make up the 9 in a box,

because he used to extract almost every day or realy Susan his wife did, , osr was not a problem going hard. it also kept the wax production up as well which was another main crop for him,

we only ever used to add more supers if the they were going to be left alone for three weeks in which case he would add four supers per hive and these would be removed be for trying to tow the trailer, the most he ever towed with was two supers on

robbing?? , the bees he would say are going to rob one of my hives to fill one of my hives so where s the loss, now if they were going to be robbed by someones elses bees thats differant .

lastly was how long to leave them on the crop, we used to leave them untill the flowers were almost gone or the next crop was coming good, if there was no field of flowers we used to run them up to the moor lands as they would then slow down and start on the heather or he would take them home to feed on the local garden flowers,

he used to have like i said around 15 trailers in use working an area of mid wales but he used to trailer over to the rape fields of herefordshire the fruit farms of worcestershire and a few other areas to , so you can go to the best forage areas when ever they are ready for you
 
>when the act is a bit more together let us know?

that was a bit bitchie and uncalled for.Someone got out of the wrong side of the bed this morning

i too am thinking about making up a trailer over the winter and all questions are helpfull
 
Not bitchy at all Keith, it needed saying as the info was wooly to say the least.

Hedgerow has now spelt it all out for him and you. So was it beneficial or not?

PH
 
can i also mention that the gentleman i worked with in wales as a proffesional bee keeper that did it for a living so wax, honey and pollination was money to him.

so to keep a hive where the flow was , was the most important piece to him, the only reason he used timber hives and not poly was he was set up to start with , with timber thats all, poly hives would be much better because they are moulded to fit together tightly and properly and all you need is two 25mm non ratchet straps to hold them down with may be some form of holding shoe to hold the base in place.

just out of intrest his wife susan used to spend the morning making frames or replacing wax foundations or making new boxs, and the afternoon was honey extraction using a pair of 18 frame extractors, filtering and bottling and wax melting and she was doing that five days a week in the season, we used to spend around about a fortnight in November going through every thing, seeing what was scrap or not, repainting, timber and trailers and general maintanence and then we used to start cutting up the timber for the new hives, most of it was made up from cheap pine timber he used to buy from the forests near by , we used to cut it into planks ready for next year and then he would spend most of december to february cutting up every thing into flat pack sets, he used to produce a massive amount of scrap but the house range fire soon eats it up, on average he used to run 300 hives on trailers and land based plus his own breeding of nucs and queens, his average yearly wage was something just above the basic £7 per hour plus the house was free of a mortage too, a lot of hard work for a living,

personal i would set up three trailers for the year each haveing 6 to 10 hives on it, and then i use google earth to find the best forage areas near by, and then start to track down where the best bits are

what you will have is a mobile apairy , you just need to follow the flows in your area now and most importantly start to get known to farmers
 
so forget they weight limit rubbish people keep talking about as we are well under what a normal eastate car can tow let alone getting a landy rover involved, so now we have sorted the weights and i am sure someone will argue with that

sorry Pete, but advising that its ok to tow a trailer that is heavier than the tow car is not good, most estates are in the 1500-1600 region, couple that to a 1700 Kg and you have a situation where the trailer is heavier than the car which can lead to snaking. the exact reason why you see caravans upside down on the motorway during the summer.

my caravan is as big as you can get in a single axle, and has an empty weight of 1200, max of 1450. I towed it home(completely empty, not even a battery) the day that I bought it with my Skoda octavia, it was not a comfortable journey because it actually felt too heavy for the car, and indeed it is right on the car's limit of 1250. I have only ever towed it with our VW Transporter since.

a 1700Kg trailer needs a Disco or similar to be safe.
 
Taff
Stabiliers work wonders on caravans and trailers.. I used to tow a 1.5tonne caravan behind a Jaguar XJ6. No stabiliser = snaked like mad. Stabiliser = stable at legal speeds ..........and illegal ones as well.

(Pity about 12 mpg).
 
Taff
Stabiliers work wonders on caravans and trailers.. I used to tow a 1.5tonne caravan behind a Jaguar XJ6. No stabiliser = snaked like mad. Stabiliser = stable at legal speeds ..........and illegal ones as well.

(Pity about 12 mpg).

although you dont state what year, the XJ6 is a big, heavy car, the point I was making is that towing a trailer that is heavier than the car is a bad recipie, your XJ6 weighing approx 1700-1850Kg towing a 1500 Kg caravan means they are well matched :)

I have had an Alko stabilising hitch for many years (well, actually I have 2 if anyone is interested in one of them ;)) and agree they do a very good job
 
'Snaking' is usually associated with the balance - too much or too little nose weight, or even negative nose weight (if loaded after being hitched). I have towed trailers with all sorts of things over the years. Coupling a too heavy trailer to a vehicle which cannot cope with the weight is illegal and very dangerous. Don't go there.

RAB
 
firstly they are right a trailer heavier than the towing vehicale is dangerous to the untrained, or unaware , but it is not illegal, i tow a single axel caravan roughly 4,000 miles per year as i work away from home all year long, I own a volks passet estate with a kerb weight of 1500kg, when loaded up its well over 1800kg ( 120kg is just me alone)and tow a caravan at 1600kg, i have towed caravans over this weight very comfortably if they are well loaded and properly balanced,

BUT AS I SAID IN THE POSTING IN THE FIRST PLACE WHO IS STUPID ENOUGH TO TOW 12 BEE HIVES WITH FOUR SUPERS ON TOP !!!!

I do wish you lot would stay on message at times, this thread is about bee hives not caravans, I do respect where your heart is tho so fair play to you, it would be advisable for the reader of this thread to look at his vehicle log book to find his max towing weight advice and to then work back wards to find the most hives he can fit on a trailer that he wishes to tow. rather than deciding to have 12 hives and I had better buy a landy rover

as i said before 12 hive brood boxes weigh roughly 500kg and a trailer to tow that weight would be another 500kg so making the weight around 1,000kg and that is towable by a mini or a ford escort.

if you wanted to be higher than this i would suggest getting a flat bed transit van and having some form of demountable body for it to stand freely when the legs are down or it is slid off .

I would say that a landy rover would be better suited to the rough and tumble of working life driving to and from farmers fields
 
Hi to all, I am considering keeping 12 of my hives on a trailer, one foot apart, to enable movement and also convenience.

Has anybody done this?

Would like to hear the pros and cons of doing it.

Would they be too close together. It happens in Eastern European countries.

Thoughts and facts please.

Thanks in anticipation

Yes plenty have done this.

Advantage for quick movment to different crops,but more money tied up in equipment and easier to nick.

One ft apart will be okay...no problem at all.

Go for a bigger trailer and vehicle than you initially need,perhaps a jcb fast track and 30ft trailer.
 
.
Honey harvesting in duty

http://www.shutterstock.com/pic-118...iving-beehives-through-yellow-beet-field.html

istockphoto_5907438-truck-driving-beehives.jpg


stock-photo-hives-at-truck-trailer-in-green-field-34081393.jpg


3955604611_809c87ae36.jpg
 
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I'd like to say thank you to all for the incredibly in-depth information and opinion, the caveats and advice.

As I have said in another post, I am absolutely certain that what ever the question, query or problem, answers will come in from those on this forum as to what, where and how to deal with it.

Truly marvellous and gives us a lot for thought, revision and assimilation of the way forward.

Thank you all for taking the time and effort to give helpful replies.
 
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Is there not a train weight stamped on the plate on the car?

Off the top of my head I seem to remember that this number shows the max the car can tow, ie train weight minus weight of vehicle = max tow weight.

Possibly out of date info?


Best to be legal esp when breaking distances are involved.

PH
 

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