Restoring an Extractor

[SteveMc]

Afternoon all,

I recently started a thread about importing a new a new radial extractor until a slight change of plans when I saw a second hand one for sale at a good price. Ended up doing a bit of a road trip to collect, it's an old one but is in good working order.
The drum, cage, shaft and honeygate are all stainless but the top bar that the motor sits on and the lids are painted steel. As I sell our honey I was concerned with regard to the use of non stainless steel in part of the extractor even though this will have no direct contact with the honey. Is this acceptable?
The extractor has no makers mark, would be grateful if anyone recognises the make.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Afternoon all,

I recently started a thread about importing a new a new radial extractor until a slight change of plans when I saw a second hand one for sale at a good price. Ended up doing a bit of a road trip to collect, it's an old one but is in good working order.
The drum, cage, shaft and honeygate are all stainless but the top bar that the motor sits on and the lids are painted steel. As I sell our honey I was concerned with regard to the use of non stainless steel in part of the extractor even though this will have no direct contact with the honey. Is this acceptable?
The extractor has no makers mark, would be grateful if anyone recognises the make.

Every extractor I've come across has had a mild steel top bar so I wouldn't worry about that, just ensure that none of the paint is flaking and the nuts, washers etc. are clean and rust free

 

[SteveMc]

Every extractor I've come across has had a mild steel top bar so I wouldn't worry about that, just ensure that none of the paint is flaking and the nuts, washers etc. are clean and rust free

Thanks, any idea if the same would apply to the underside of the lids? My intention was to wirewool the tarnish off and give them and a wipe over with some cooking oil to stop any rust/tarnish forming again.
I have just stripped off the legs and motor and ordered stainless steel, nuts, bolts and screws to replace all the existing ones so them rusting shouldn't be a issue.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

with the l8ds I would splash out and get polycarbonate ones to replace them. Shouldn't cost too much to get them made.

 

[SumpNut]

Why not get the mild steel parts powder coated, it's a cheap, tough, hardwearing finish that will last a long time.

A quick search will find you a local company that could quickly sand blast them back to bare metal and powder coat them for you.

 

[Murox]

Thanks, any idea if the same would apply to the underside of the lids? My intention was to wirewool the tarnish off and give them and a wipe over with some cooking oil to stop any rust/tarnish forming again.
I have just stripped off the legs and motor and ordered stainless steel, nuts, bolts and screws to replace all the existing ones so them rusting shouldn't be a issue.

A4 steel is the best grade against acidity/corrosion - used in food industry and marine a lot. I'm with JBM on the lids, polycarbonate is cheapish and durable enough.

 

[SteveMc]

Thanks for the input all, have just ordered some pre-cut polycarbonate semi circle pieces that should replace the lids.

 

[SteveMc]

Well after an initial good clean I have replaced all the nuts and bolts for stainless equivalents, painted the frame, added castors and manufactured the lids from perspex. Pleased with the results.
As a bonus with the flow on in the Forest of Dean there might actually be a decent amount to extract!

 

[SumpNut]

I think you've done well, it looks like a brand new extractor!