Creamer conversion ideas?

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beeker

Leighton Shropshire
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Leighton Shropshire
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14x12
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8 must stop now.....
I've just upgraded my extractor, and therefore have a vevor hand driven one left. It was only £100 new, and rather than sell it I keep looking at it wondering wether I can convert it to a powered creamer, as I seen to get a good dwL more OSR honey than anything else early on, and it's started to become really popular in sales.
I was thinking of leVing the cage in, but adding some more stainless as baffles across to make a paddle. Then adding a motor, seems about 500w is the going rate on smallest commercial ones , and a reduction gearbox, probably right angled direct onto the shaft. heating wise was thinking brewing belts with insulation over the top. And just a simple on off timer to the mains.

Probably not seeing any glaring problems, so..... Hive minds, rip my idea apart 🤣

Any alternatives other than buying one ready made, unless you have an absolute bargain. I have access to a fairly well equipped farm workshop, and fairly sure I can find at least the motor in there too. Currently, using a drill, and stainless paddle, just trying to make it a bit easier, and use what I already have.

@JamezF You seem to be the guy full of good ideas like this 😄

Thanks in advance Mark
 
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I have a Lyson heated 50l creamer, it's way more substantial than an extractor. Stirring set honey needs a lot of force and also generates some strong twisting forces. I don't think an extractor would withstand these.
 
It would appear that I have something of a reputation for BIY[1].

I'm inclined to agree with Jimmy. My initial reaction is that you'd need a pretty hefty motor and that's going to generate forces that a plastic extractor is not going to be happy dealing with.

James

[1] Bodge-It-Yourself :D
 
I was wondering that too. It's not plastic, but stainless steel. I was thinking of a much improved brace across the top, to take the motor, and as I said, a much larger motor, there's not going to be the rotational momentum of an extractor, but rather a drag through thicker stuff, at about one revolution in two seconds. and a soft start would be doable.
And yes @JamezF your
reputation precedes you 😁. In a very good way
 
Extractors have a bottom bearing that isn’t sealed. The depth of honey should never over top the bearing, damaging the bearing.
And that's why I'm here..... I hadn't thought of most of those things. . Thats decided it thank you all, bad idea then. Will sell it locally then 👍. And carry on with the drill.
 
And that's why I'm here..... I hadn't thought of most of those things. . Thats decided it thank you all, bad idea then. Will sell it locally then 👍. And carry on with the drill.
Remove the cage, take the ball bearing out, clean the socket and repurpose it by putting a lid on it as a settling tank ?
 
you'd probably get all your money back if you put it on ebay.
Years ago I had a four frame hand crank extractor that was now totally inadequate for my purposes, I took it to a local bee auction and sold it for a few more pounds than I paid for it new
 
you'd probably get all your money back if you put it on ebay.
Years ago I had a four frame hand crank extractor that was now totally inadequate for my purposes, I took it to a local bee auction and sold it for a few more pounds than I paid for it new
Yes... but you would get more for it if you sell it when people are needing to extract their honey...
 
I was wondering that too. It's not plastic, but stainless steel. I was thinking of a much improved brace across the top, to take the motor, and as I said, a much larger motor, there's not going to be the rotational momentum of an extractor, but rather a drag through thicker stuff, at about one revolution in two seconds. and a soft start would be doable.
And yes @JamezF your
reputation precedes you 😁. In a very good way
If Morstan Mixers are still in business I'm sure they would have an appropriately sturdy drive and paddle arrangement. 🤔
 

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