Save your money, just create some starter strips.Make your own from your own wax. Obviously takes time but at least you know where its coming from. Mould on ebay
Save your money, just create some starter strips.Make your own from your own wax. Obviously takes time but at least you know where its coming from. Mould on ebay
With wire less I’ve had a few sheets drop out it’s the little ridge in the rebate for the bar that often does not allow bar to clamp tight. Also with super thin I’ve had some drop out when the bees start to draw. Situation was not helped bouncing a load of just made up boxes across a field in the pick up on 1 occasion. You can cut ridge with a Stanley if your only doing a few or a little wax dribbled on wax wood join. Just ensure you add a little more pressure the vast majority are fine.No; assemble as usual; closing bar is sufficient.
I never doIf you are using un-wired foundation, are you doing anything to hold them in place other than pinching them in with the bar at the top? Once the bees start drawing them out they will be fixed in place.
Support grid probably reduces risk; I've extracted some pretty flimsy broods tangentially without problem.Could be different in a tangential??
Just one rider: I never have comb bursts spinning unwired super comb in my radial extractor. Could be different in a tangential??
I think the frames most at risk in a tangential extractor are ManleysSupport grid probably reduces risk; I've extracted some pretty flimsy broods tangentially without problem.
Let me know how that goes!I was going to buy one for my wife's birthday to save wear on her wrists and scalding her hands while wringing out the sheets as they came out of the dollytub
I bought her a Bulldog Ladyspade one year. They were guaranteed to be the strongest spade you could buy. By implication unbreakable. The tv advert showed Bob Todd tipping a house over with one. - She broke it first time she used it! The shop exchanged it for a new one when I took it backLet me know how that goes!
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