Treated with Oxalic acid today.

[gavin]

Just fine stuff Peter? Chunky stuff might mean that there's a mouse in there.

RAB - I dunno. There is always plenty of space in my hives come spring, but I suppose that it is possible to add too much. I prefer not to give them more than they need as the spare syrup/fondant will get mixed in with the rape honey harvest when they shuffle things around in the spring.

G.

 

[BKF Admin]

And you can always remove a few combs in the spring and give them some foundation to work.

 

[oliver90owner]

Yes, Admin, we can but can the new Beeks? And not so easy when available frame space is full of larvae. May look good but probably could be a lot better.

And as you well know, drawn comb is a far better option than foundation in early spring. You need young bees and warmth for comb drawing, both of which may not be abundant at the time it is needed.

The Dartingtons are easy - one simply slides a few extra drawn combs (from the carry-boxes, ha, ha) into place in the already available space in front of the brood nest.

But if a new beek feeds them with fondant all winter and only has a standard brood there may be problems. Perhaps not serious ones but a check on the spring development is a possibility.

All this 'feeding candy while food stores are nearly full' is encouraging new beeks to think that is the norm and not consider the ramifications of their actions.

Bees should go into winter with sufficient stores. We know they don't always have as much as needed for the whole winter. In the wild, Santa would not be supplying extra stores at Christmas. I don't anticipate feeding any full colony before the middle of February (at the earliest), and then only if they need it.

Regards, RAB

 

[Finman]

And you can always remove a few combs in the spring and give them some foundation to work.

I never give foundations in spring. Bees are not willng to draw them. I have store full of ready combs.
Often I have foundation or half drawn such on side of box. It is real summer before they start to draw combs when surplus honey comes in.

 

[wilderness]

adding to the balance debate, Maplin has this one on offer for £20
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=256386

0.1 g to 200g with 0.1g resolution.

The kitchen balance I use switches itself off before I've finished weighing as the battery saving option cuts in. I'll have to weigh quicker.

 

[wilderness]

If you have dead bees on the floor you could also check ....

- rather stocky build, broad bees unlike the fine tapered shape of continental races
- hairs on the second last abdominal segment rather long
- wing venation (maybe someone could help with that)

Through the season, pollen tends to be stored all round the brood nest, honey cappings are white due to an air space, the bees tend to fly in cooler weather.

G.

Peteinwilts, I could do some wing venation measurements for you. PM me if you are interested.
Dave

 

[Somerford]

the point of my exercise in candy feeding is to place it directly above the cluster which prevents the cluster having to move around and therfore waste energy/risk loosing bees.

Some years I feed candy (If I have made any/remember to get any) some years I don't get round to it.

I have never experienced any issue with problems building up in the spring as a result of feeding candy (and the problem of stores remaining in the way of an active egg layer) as the bees simply move them into the first super.

Considering the weather forecasters are suggesting the coldest January on record to come, I think the prudent use of candy will pay dividends IMHO anyway

regards
S

 

[Somerford]

wax capping residues on the floor so they are working their way through the honey.

Absolutely the case with mine too....

 

[Finman]

the point of my exercise in candy feeding is to place it directly above the cluster which prevents the cluster having to move around and therfore waste energy/risk loosing bees.


S

I have never used candy or fondant in spring during my 47 beekeeping years.

Syrup feeding in September will be enough to May.

Pollen patty I have feeded 20 years to get early start to brooding.

Next time I scheck the food storages in the middle of March. I believe that they are all alive, and if not, I can't help them. .

 

[VEG]

We had the beginners group watching our association bees being treated this morning. All bees alive with plenty of stores so far.

 

[Somerford]

Daily Knock Down rate - after 24 hours : 2 hives checked - 1 had 11 dead varroa, the other 250 (Both were previously treated with Apiguard in the Autumn.)

1st hive checked is a small nuc (ex-Admin) The other a combined colony.

will check mite drop again tomorrow and report back.

regards

S

 

[match]

I'm just back after a long break - and thus haven't had a chance to check on my bees since the end of November... of course given that its constantly below freezing outside, with some wind and regular snow, its proving difficult!

Having said that, I did put some candy in before going away, so its unlikely that they're low on stores. I would like to treat with Oxalic Acid though, but am wondering what the latest point to treat is before there's a good build up of brood. the current weather forecast is for it to stay around 0C til the end of January! Of course, I could treat them on a warmish day (2-4C) but I'm paranoid that the benefit of the treatment will be outweighed by my mucking around in the hive

 

[BKF Admin]

Match what did they look like before you went away regards Verroa,did you do a Thymol treatment?
p.s:welcome back Happy new year.

 

[gavin]

Unless - as Admin hints - you think that they may not need a treatment, I would just get on with it. We don't really know if cold weather stops them producing brood, so later may be worse. It is a simple procedure so it should take less than a minute once the crown board is off. It was probably around freezing when I did mine - a few bees flew from one hive but most stayed where they were.

best wishes

Gavin

 

[Finman]

-5C is very good weather to do trickling.

 

[Onge]

-5C is very good weather to do trickling.

Gah and ive delayed doing mine till it gets to 4 degrees ish.

If Finman says -5 is fine then thats good enough for me.

 

[Somerford]

2nd mite count

Daily Knock Down rate - after 48 hours : 2 hives checked - again 1 had 11 dead varroa, the other now had 450

As before, 1st hive checked is a small nuc (ex-Admin) The other a combined colony.

I must admit I am a little concerned that the mite drop on the larger colony is so large considering it had the double dose of Apiguard Thymol in the Autumn...I wonder if it's efficacy was somehow compromised. Any thoughts ?

regards

S

 

[oliver90owner]

Somerford,

Did you check with Admin that he had not previously treated that nuc with oxalic?

Regards, RAB

 

[BKF Admin]

Hi Somerford.
Looking at the records the nuc was the last one of the season I sold(It was very late)so I new the mite load would be at the highest level for the year as I was soon to treat all the other hives,The nuc was made up from a double brood hive with the original queen going to the nuc,she was hatched out late May09.

I am very suprised that your 2 treatments of Thymol have not reduced the mite count below what would be expected.

Was it the nuc from me with the high mite count or the combined hive?

"I wonder if it's efficacy was somehow compromised. Any thoughts ?"

Did you leave the first Apiguard pack on when putting the second dose in?
What was the temp at the time?

 

[Somerford]

the nuc from you has the very low count.....!!