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Be that as it may (the latest recommedations from the NBU), Germs are like dirt - a bit of it is good for anything. Unless there was a local outbreak of a notifiable disease, then I would not be up for making course attendees have to wash their own veils etc before attending.

To me it takes the fun out of the whole thing.

We are all too scared of 'ifs, buts and maybes' in this time and place. Common sense yes, but there comes a point where it is all taken too far in my opinion.

(The leather gauntlets happen to be my own, by the way)

regards

S
 
So which honey bee pathogens ect are the NBU saying are good in small amounts,nosema ceranae,nosema apis,Melissococcus plutonius,Ascosphaera apis,ect ect. In the new recommendations by the NBU are they now advising to use filthy leather gloves and dirty hive tools so the bee's get a better chance of getting some disease. I think you would have a different attitude to hygiene if you were in the middle of an outbreak of efb/afb such as they have in Scotland,and its an attitude of not being vigilant that can lead to just such things happening,and spreading fast, not good to be teaching new beekeepers that apairy hygene is unimportant.
 
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Very good Steve...... or your problem becomes everyone's problem,and the solution is hard to find.

Prevention is better than cure.
 
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Steve
I see you are in north wilts, did you attend the disease day at Bromham Hall this year, If you did then you would be in no doubt about the importance of hygiene, if you did not then like a lot of beekeepers they think that disease never happens to them, when it does and the beehaus cannot be scorched with a blowtorch, so minimising the risk must be of paramount importance. EFB and AFB, Nosema (both) can leave you with no bees and a burning hole in the ground is not a pleasant site,( Ihave never had to do it but have seen it)
 
Beebreeder

Regardless of what Steve does or does not do, I am sure that if the Bromham Hall was uptodate it would have listed that chemical treatmets for AFB and EFB are recognised?

Omlet said:
How to sterilise your beehive
If you had a disease such as American Foulbrood or European Fouldbrood in your colony, you will need to sterilise your hive. It is also good practice to sterilise your beehive whenever you get a chance or if you are selling or purchasing a secondhand hive.

Sterilising your beehaus
Wood or plastic hives can be sterilised using common chemicals such as bleach, caustic soda or Virkon S. The only thing that chemicals cannot treat is wax and you would need to remove this before doing the sterilisation. We recommend that your read the office Defra advice leaflet here: https://secure.fera.defra.gov.uk/beebase/pdfs/fbleaflet.pdf - page 34, under the head Chemical Sterilisation.

Frames and wax
You can sterilise wax by using gamma rays from a radioisotope of cobalt. As you probably won't have a gamma radiation machine to hand, it is recommended that your depose of the wax and old frames by burning them in a fire.

bee_virkon_sterilisation.png
 
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Steve
I see you are in north wilts, did you attend the disease day at Bromham Hall this year, If you did then you would be in no doubt about the importance of hygiene, if you did not then like a lot of beekeepers they think that disease never happens to them, when it does and the beehaus cannot be scorched with a blowtorch, so minimising the risk must be of paramount importance. EFB and AFB, Nosema (both) can leave you with no bees and a burning hole in the ground is not a pleasant site,( Ihave never had to do it but have seen it)


No - I was not made aware of the course, BB
 
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No - I was not made aware of the course, BB

Hi Somerford,
I am surprised that you were not “made aware” of the event held at Bromham, in that it was widely advertised. Being a Fera event, it would have been on their website – I also saw it in HoneyBee Times – the Wiltshire BKA County magazine which is sent to all members of affiliated BKAs – I assume that you are a member of such an association. See page 33 of http://www.wiltshirebeekeepers.org.uk/Downloads/Issue 2 2009 v2.pdf
However, in that you are a trainer of new beekeepers, I would have thought that you would be keeping yourself up to date in these matters, rather than relying on being “made aware”.
The use of disposable gloves when beekeeping is surely the same as the current campaign to reduce the spread of influenza which encourages people to sneeze or cough into tissues which are then disposed of – “Catch it, Bin it, Kill it” !! Would you like your doctor to use the same pair of gloves on you that s/he used on the last patient?
Finally, if you are using heavy leather gloves in your own beekeeping, then there is the potential to release millions of Nosema spores when you squash a bee.
 
use of disposable gloves

Ask your bee inspector who is most at risk of infection
(a) 2 colony beekeeper using leather gloves
or (b) 100 colony beekeeper using disposables?

Having worked in the exciting world of insurance ;) for many years I'm very familiar with the idea of identifying and managing risks. Now I'm keeping bees on a larger scale it would be madness for me not to use disposable gloves and any other hygiene measures readily available.

However, in defence of users of leather gloves, it's all about measuring the degree of risk and also the consequences of infection. EFB is the primary worry because anything else is less prevalent or less serious, so let's focus on that for now. EFB will be spread by the beekeeper who handles combs from an infected colony and then goes on to work through another colony without changing gloves or washing tools.

Also the chances of a random non-beekeeper related infection are small. How small? Well just going on this years stats, I had 160ish colonies as at 1st April and none of those have shown any symptoms, and they've all been inspected by bee inspectors. This is in spite of EFB found locally. So chances of random infection are less than 1/100 and probably much smaller, but this must vary by area depending on underlying disease prevalence.

So heres a rough and ready risk analysis according to colonies owned:

Own 1 colony, infection chances are 1/100, cross infection possibilities = 0

Own 2 colonies, infection chances 2/100, cross-infection possibilities = 2

Own 3 colonies, infection chances 3/100, cross-infection possibilities = 6

Own 4 colonies, infection chances 4/100, cross-infection possibilities = 12

Own 100 colonies, infection chances 100/100, cross-infection poss. = 9900

You get the idea. The more bees you have, the more necessary it is to take precautions, because the risks grow exponentially. The flip-side of that argument is if you only have one apiary with 2 colonies then you will not be adding a significant risk by using leather gloves. And the aggro associated with a 2 colony infection won't be much worse than a 1 colony infection. To be honest, I would be tempted to do the shook swarm on symptomless colonies in the apiary anyway to deal with any doubt.

The only other factor to consider is how many non-owned colonies you come into contact with. It's not fair to put other beekeepers bees at risk.
 
Chris you mention about changing gloves and washing tools, but what about the risk of spores on the suit itself is this a high risk?
 
And there is always the chance that leather gloves will be the new wooden butcher block?

Peronsaly I prefere marigolds for so many reasons (many as more than 2) of which cost is a factor!
 
Chris you mention about changing gloves and washing tools, but what about the risk of spores on the suit itself is this a high risk?

It must be a risk because bee inspectors always take the trouble to be walking adverts for Persil, and they always carry spares too. But it's not nearly as big a risk as stuff that has more direct contact i.e. gloves and hive tool. I wouldn't feel qualified to try to quantify it any more than that really.
 
The use of disposable gloves when beekeeping is surely the same as the current campaign to reduce the spread of influenza which encourages people to sneeze or cough into tissues which are then disposed of – “Catch it, Bin it, Kill it” !! Would you like your doctor to use the same pair of gloves on you that s/he used on the last patient?
Finally, if you are using heavy leather gloves in your own beekeeping, then there is the potential to release millions of Nosema spores when you squash a bee.

My choice to use leather is for two reasons -
1 I can wash them/soak in alcohol to remove propolis,
2 I find them more comfortable than sweaty plastic gloves,
3 they are far more eco friendly - I refuse to throw away disposable gloves after every hive inspection.

I have used them for nearly 20 years and never suffered a hive issue. I cannot imagine that using rubber gloves prevents bee squashing - unfortunately we all do it what ever gloevs we use. I rest my case.

By the way - just to scare you completely, I use a cotton hanky instead of paper...and there is no way I'll bin that every time I blow my nose.:cheers2:

regards

S
 
Ask your bee inspector who is most at risk of infection
(a) 2 colony beekeeper using leather gloves
or (b) 100 colony beekeeper using disposables?

The only other factor to consider is how many non-owned colonies you come into contact with. It's not fair to put other beekeepers bees at risk.

Interesting stats, Chris. Actually I rarely come into direct contact with other beekeeper's colonies but if I do and they wanted me to wear rubber gloves that they provided, then that would be fine - but I have never been asked to.

regards

S
 
Is the Beehaus for me???

Hi I am a newbee (pun certainly intented) to the beekeeping world and would like a modern hive for a modern garden. I have a fairly spacious garden that would easily accomodate ther hive but was wondering if it was OK for beginners. Of course I would train before actually taking on a live hive, but as the beehaus is a considered purchase I want to know if it is a good product and it will last. :nature-smiley-013:

Many Thanks
Dan
The Newbee
 
The Beehaus seems expensive and surely the problem is that it does last but would not decompose easily nor clean as easily as wood which can be scorched? But then I am more or less a newbee, too, interested to hear other views.
 
An Omlet is a plastic Dartington style hive.

Firstly you have to ask yourself whether or not you want to run Dartingtons as opposed to the more traditional style of hive.

Secondly, if you want to run Dartingtons then you need to decide whether to go for wood or plastic (Omlet).

The choice of hive you make at the beginning is important as it is expensive and a hassle to change.

I suggest you join a local association, get to see as many different hive types as you can and then make up your mind.
 

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