Cleaning a Konigin extractor

[Levitt53]

After reaching my capacity limit with my manual extractor in the spring I have invested in a Konigin 9 frame electric radial extractor. I'm planning to spin the honey this afternoon and am just contemplating cleaning the extractor. However the tap is on the same side as the motor so I'm not sure how I can get much water in it without possibly getting some in the motor. The instructions do say that it can be washed with a power washer! I am thinking the motor might be able to be removed but it doesn't say so in the instructions and I'm not very electronically minded so don't want to fiddle too much. I guess I'll get the cling film out for now and cover it up the best I can.

Does anyone have any advice?

 

[steve1958]

I wrap plastic bags around the electrical parts and have attached some garden hose to the tap so that I can clean it from inside.
If that makes sense

 

[enrico]

I wrap plastic bags around the electrical parts and have attached some garden hose to the tap so that I can clean it from inside.
If that makes sense

I too have just bought the same model! I wouldn't take it to bits. I have put mine on wheels and can wheel it into a walk in shower where I can use the hot water to rinse it out. My problem is the tap is half an inch from the bottom of the spinner which means getting the last bit of honey out looks as though it might be a nightmare! Trying it in the next couple of days so I will let you know how I get on!!!

 

[Busybee]

After reaching my capacity limit with my manual extractor in the spring I have invested in a Konigin 9 frame electric radial extractor. I'm planning to spin the honey this afternoon and am just contemplating cleaning the extractor. However the tap is on the same side as the motor so I'm not sure how I can get much water in it without possibly getting some in the motor. The instructions do say that it can be washed with a power washer! I am thinking the motor might be able to be removed but it doesn't say so in the instructions and I'm not very electronically minded so don't want to fiddle too much. I guess I'll get the cling film out for now and cover it up the best I can.

Does anyone have any advice?

I purchased the 12 frame and found it quite easy to clean. Proped it up on the rear leg and washed out with a hose pipe which allowed water to drain away from the motor. Covered the controller and lid switch in plastic bags. Takes quite a while to dry afterwards but was not as bad as originally envisaged.

 

[bobba]

I too have just bought the same model! I wouldn't take it to bits. I have put mine on wheels and can wheel it into a walk in shower where I can use the hot water to rinse it out. My problem is the tap is half an inch from the bottom of the spinner which means getting the last bit of honey out looks as though it might be a nightmare! Trying it in the next couple of days so I will let you know how I get on!!!

Different model, same problem, mine is 4f so tilting is not so bad.

It annoys me that extractors are made like that.

I was thinking of drilling a little hole in the bottom of my extractor, then blocking it with a bung. Or even adding a little bit of tube and a 2nd tap.

 

[jeff33]

I really don't see any difficulty in cleaning it. I have the 12 frames and use a hose pipe to remove the worst, sponge and washing up liquid, rinse and leave it tilted to drip dry. After the last extraction of the year I remove the top, the part where frames rest on and give it a thorough clean.

 

[Curly green finger's]

I really don't see any difficulty in cleaning it. I have the 12 frames and use a hose pipe to remove the worst, sponge and washing up liquid, rinse and leave it tilted to drip dry. After the last extraction of the year I remove the top, the part where frames rest on and give it a thorough clean.

How easy is it to remove the top/cage.
I have the same one as you on a pallet with wheels, it isn't very easy using a satchel on the sides or floor to get the dregs of honey.

 

[Newbeeneil]

I purchased the 12 frame and found it quite easy to clean. Proped it up on the rear leg and washed out with a hose pipe which allowed water to drain away from the motor. Covered the controller and lid switch in plastic bags. Takes quite a while to dry afterwards but was not as bad as originally envisaged.

I have the same model and use the same method to drain and clean.

 

[Stiffy]

We have a 20 frame Konigin and it is cleaned with warm water and then dried, never had a problem. Only problem we have found is the cage is fairly low and honey soon reaches the limit, motor whines a bit too but no more than me !!!

 

[jeff33]

How easy is it to remove the top/cage.
I have the same one as you on a pallet with wheels, it isn't very easy using a satchel on the sides or floor to get the dregs of honey.

Straight forward Mark, 2 Allen key cap screws on the inside of the top lateral bar and one on the other side which also holds the leg. be careful there is a bolt on the inside with this one. Lift it up and you can then remove the cage.

Mine is on the floor so I don't have the added height issue and can easily reach the bottom. The cage is sharp in place and have cut myself a couple of times cleaning it though.

 

[jeff33]

We have a 20 frame Konigin and it is cleaned with warm water and then dried, never had a problem. Only problem we have found is the cage is fairly low and honey soon reaches the limit, motor whines a bit too but no more than me !!!

I have found the same problem. I usually do 1 full spin of 12 frames and when I put another lot of frames I will leave the bottom valve slightly opened so the excess honey can go directly in a bucket. I only use a coarse filter at this stage so it doesn't clog up or overtop.

 

[victor meldrew]

I have found the same problem. I usually do 1 full spin of 12 frames and when I put another lot of frames I will leave the bottom valve slightly opened so the excess honey can go directly in a bucket. I only use a coarse filter at this stage so it doesn't clog up or overtop.

I have the 12 frame one ! The whine is the result of the speed timer control.
It does have limited capacity due to the domed floor meant to keep the bottom bearings out of the honey .
however . The electrically driven models are said to have sealed bottom bearings .
if using shallow supers, it’s possible to lift the cage on the shaft to suit , thus gaining increased capacity .

 

[Beanwood]

Blimey - I've been away a long time. Years ago it was Giordan that were the popular extractor.

They had the same issue with razor sharp edges on the cage though - which I finally got around to resolving this week when I removed it for the end of season clean - a piece of 240 grit sandpaper rubbed over the sharp edges, and hopefully no more cuts.

 

[victor meldrew]

Blimey - I've been away a long time. Years ago it was Giordan that were the popular extractor.

They had the same issue with razor sharp edges on the cage though - which I finally got around to resolving this week when I removed it for the end of season clean - a piece of 240 grit sandpaper rubbed over the sharp edges, and hopefully no more cuts.

I have an engineering background and ‘ break all edges ‘ was printed on all drawings .

 

[Beanwood]

I have an engineering background and ‘ break all edges ‘ was printed on all drawings .

Indeed - shame it doesn't seem to appear on the cage suppliers drawings though does it, which are very nicely pressed steel, but not finished.
Having said that - the rest of the extractor is pretty good.

I did notice someone mention hot water above. I personally tend to use cold, so not to melt the wax, rather just wash it away. (Right ot wrong, I don't know, it's just what I do)

 

[pargyle]

I have an elderly Lega 15 frame electric extractor... powered with a motor on the bar at the top ... 2 minutes to remove that and the cage ... deep dome at the bottom so 30lb honey does not get anywhere near the spindle. Tap is at the bottom of one side and a 3" block under the opposite wheel gets almost every drop of honey out. The frame cage is smoothly finished and I've changed the rods to threaded bars so I could adjust the frame size, it started life as a Langstroth but now does my nationals .... motor is quiet ...manual speed adjustment with a lever on the motor and forwards and reverse with the same lever ! If Lega got things so right 30+ years ago what I am seeing above is not progress...

One bit of advice.... use COLD water to clean your extractors not hot ...a bit of patience with a hosepipe will get everything inclusive of any wax out ... quick dry with some paper towels and jobs a good 'un.

 

[Amari]

One bit of advice.... use COLD water to clean your extractors not hot ...a bit of patience with a hosepipe will get everything inclusive of any wax out ... quick dry with some paper towels and jobs a good 'un.

Please explain: why is cold better than hot?

 

[pargyle]

Hot water can soften the beeswax which then sticks to the extractor- cold water hardens it and a jet of water will wash it out...I've tried both and it's no contest ... cold much better...

 

[victor meldrew]

Please explain: why is cold better than hot?

Cold water will swill the wax out without a problem whereas hot water will part melt it causing it to adhere to the extractor surfaces! It then becomes a pain to shift .
If extractor is stored without noticing wax smears, mould will quickly develop. Another mess to deal with !

 

[joelsoo]

i usually leave the extractor by my hives for a few hours after extraction the bees clean it up spick and span... then gentle hose down and store.