BBKA Bee Breeding certificate.

[pargyle]

But I have have got any advices in queen rearing from this forum, which are worth to follow. I have tried too Pargyles eternal advice "do nothing".

More Finnogooglian Tripe .... Can't resist the urge can you ?

Still got all my colonies .... nice bees ... healthy local mongrels.

 

[Beefriendly]

healthy local mongrels.

What have you got to compare their health against?
Treat one or two of your hives and see how they perform vs your untreated.
In terms of understanding how varroa can affect a colony it's a no brainer.

 

[pargyle]

What have you got to compare their health against?

Treat one or two of your hives and see how they perform vs your untreated.
In terms of understanding how varroa can affect a colony it's a no brainer.

Feel free to join in ... I've heard it all before ...

I will just repeat ... I am NOT a 'do nothing' beekeeper. I just don't treat my bees for varroa and wherever possible the only things that go into the hive are what they have brought in. So far ... it seems to work. They have no signs of disease, levels of varroa are tolerable, they don't get Nosema, they fill enough supers for what I require ... enough to sell ... enough to feed my honey habit ..and enough to see them through wnter (usually with a few frames left), I don't need to force them into 150Kg yield per hive. The bees are never stressed - they are allowed to do what they do naturally with a bit of help and guidance from me. I've not lost a colony yet through disease, starvation or parasitic problems - they do occasionally swarm if I get it wrong ... but I keep an eye on what's happening in the swarm season and I try to keep ahead of any swarm preps.

I'm not on a crusade to pursuade anyone to do things my way ...it works for me. I'm happy for you to do it your way ...

Now perhaps you should start and practice let alone beekeepering - I've got one Finnish parasite on my back I don't need another ...

 

[Beefriendly]

Feel free to join in ... I've heard it all before ...

You may have heard it all before...but until you compare treated vs untreated bees you haven't a clue how your non treatment is affecting the health of your bees.

 

[Finman]

Still got all my colonies .... nice bees ... healthy local mongrels.

That is world record: No losses in 5 years and no varroa problem.

And the guy does not push them to forage.
I wonder what happens then if he pushes.

My hives are stressed when I put them on good pastures. Then I shout to them: Victory or death! And I wave a flag!

 

[pargyle]

That is world record: No losses in 5 years and no varroa problem.

And the guy does not push them to forage.
I wonder what happens then if he pushes.

My hives are stressed.

Guess they would die like yours ?

 

[Finman]

Guess they would die like yours ?

It is very normal that hives die. Don't be afraid.

Yeah. You could generate the Fairytale II : My immortal hives' life in heaven.

.

 

[For want of a better word]

That is world record: No losses in 5 years and no varroa problem.

And the guy does not push them to forage.
I wonder what happens then if he pushes.

My hives are stressed when I put them on good pastures. Then I shout to them: Victory or death! And I wave a flag!

Flag waving in Finland.. and Beef going on about his incredible depth of knowledge on natural beekeepering... about as far away from the OP BBKA Bee Breeding certificate. as one can get.... unless the thread can be turned over to Brexit or fat lazy non beekeepers?

Myttin da

 

[Finman]

Flag waving in Finland.. and Beef going on about his incredible depth of knowledge on natural beekeepering... about as far away from the OP BBKA Bee Breeding certificate. as one can get.... unless the thread can be turned over to Brexit or fat lazy non beekeepers?

Myttin da

But Brother Pargyle has mite resistant bees from very beginning, since his 6 frame swarm.: He has done nothing.
B+ should go and look that miracle how easily mite resistant bees can be done.


.

 

[Finman]

Lets look this natural beekeeping closer:

Feel free to join in ... I've heard it all before ...

I
- I just don't treat my bees for varroa

- wherever possible the only things that go into the hive are what they have brought in. .....no swarming control and inspections

- levels of varroa are tolerable.


- they don't get Nosema,

- they fill enough supers for what I require .... Swarmed hives do not get yield

- I don't need to force them into 150Kg yield per hive. .....IT is impossible in UK. Too big give dencity.

- I've not lost a colony yet through disease, starvation or parasitic problems - but via swarming

- do occasionally swarm if I get it wrong ... but I keep an eye on what's happening in the swarm season and I try to keep ahead of any swarm preps.

...it works for me. I'm happy for you to do it your way ... Happy barking!

Now perhaps you should start and practice let alone beekeepering - I've got one Finnish parasite on my back I don't need another


- Best point is that I force the bees to forage ..... That revieles how much Brother Pargyle knows about bees.


....... Not so bad as Giant of British intelligentzia ....

 

[pargyle]

- Best point is that I force the bees to forage ...

But that's what you said you do ? Best look back at your posts ...

You manipulate them so that you get 150Kg a hive ... and you won't tolerate bees that cannot achieve this ...

I think I need to learn Finnish so that we can communicate more effectively ..

You clearly are not getting the point of my overall philosophy ..

Enough now - time you started hibernating, the beekeeping in Finland must be done for the season ... I've got better things to do - another 5Kg of naturally grown runner beans to prepare for the freezer ...

 

[Finman]

I know what I write without looking. You really have a bad dyslexia.

You invent the stories and try to put them into my mouth.
I know that common British Intelligent Debate Formula. Heh heh..

Force bees to fly... How

And you draw a line to the super and tell them that fill this the box up to this line.and they obey.
But two swarms have gone. Too Late.

You have better to do. That is true.

 

[B+.]

AI seemed to be definitely off the agenda!

Oddly, that's one of the things they seemed to accept according to the letter I received - although who they think would instrumentally inseminate mongrels, I don't know.

 

[For want of a better word]

Oddly, that's one of the things they seemed to accept according to the letter I received - although who they think would instrumentally inseminate mongrels, I don't know.

Me neither... did they mention cell punching?

Yeghes da

 

[B+.]

Me neither... did they mention cell punching?

No.
I was only asked to demonstrate grafting. They were particularly interested in the age of the larvae I selected. I would have preferred even younger larvae than I used, but, I chose the youngest that were in the hive at the time.
The syllabus (2.5 and 2.6) focus on grafting. However, 2.7 focuses on small scale queen rearing methods (although cell punching isn't mentioned explicitly).
I raised 114 daughters of 55-2-70-2016 this year, so, I think they could have safely assumed I was competent to graft larvae of the right age. These daughters have found their way all over the country, so, it makes the requirement to raise (not breed) mongrels somewhat bizarre. IMHO, if you've raised 3 generations of mongrels using open mating, there is a better than average chance you have a mixture of Carnica, Buckfast, etc in there already. You can only be sure that you have pure stock by using II or island mating stations that are far enough off the coast to prevent contamination

 

[Finman]

No.
They were particularly interested in the age of the larvae I selected.

I have counted my larva age, how young I succeed to graft. They are 1 day old.

All larvae are fed with royal jelly to age of 3 days. But it has meaning, how much the queen cell has reserve food when the cells are capped.

Emergency cell does not have enough food. There is no extra food in emergency cells when the queen emerges.

 

[Finman]

.
When I use ready swarming cells, there is no danger, that food store is too small.

 

[B+.]

I have counted my larva age, how young I succeed to graft. They are 1 day old.

All larvae are fed with royal jelly to age of 3 days. But it has meaning, how much the queen cell has reserve food when the cells are capped.

Emergency cell does not have enough food. There is no extra food in emergency cells when the queen emerges.

Absolutely.
The larvae were in the correct range (otherwise they would have counted that as a fail). What I meant to say was that I prefer them to be as young as possible after hatching (transparent larvae that have no visible segmentation).
On the day (22nd July), which was much later in the year than it should have been IMHO, there wasn't a lot of larvae in the correct age range. I rejected a number of frames before selecting one which I considered worth grafting from.

 

[Finman]

.
As small as possible.... That is too difficult. IT is easy to violate larva then. A small larva with segments is good enough. When the Queen cell has extra food, larva has been good.

When some larva was capped too early, I broke the cells.

The larva eates jelly one day under cap.

 

[pargyle]

You invent the stories and try to put them into my mouth.

Kettlle, Saucepan, Black ???