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Still think my way is better .... sorry ... frames hanging on the outside of a hive ,... not perfectly good.
That's fair enough. Feel free to work your way. In my experience the extra space created by removing the first frame prevents risking rolling bees and I prefer it.
 
I dislike carrying more equipment than I need.

I do not use frame rests.
I design (fancy word for bodge) ALL my hive stands with extra width so frames can be leaned on side of hive with base resting on the stand.
Makes life so much easier. KISS.


If I want to actually play around with a frame - eg catching a queen - and she runs around a lot - place the frame in a self contained frame holder which can be placed on top of a roof and inspected at leisure.

But runny queens = runny bees which are a pia and I tend to requeen asap.

(From my own home raised queens)
 
Taking a dummy out always leaves me enough room to lift the frames out without rolling bees and like Philip I like to leave all the bees in the box. I tend to put the dummy back at the other end when I'm done. I have found queens on the first frame.......and on the QX or crown board while I'm at it. It pays to be careful. Has anybody found that they can eventually get only ten frames with ease in Abelo boxes?
 
I dislike carrying more equipment than I need.

I do not use frame rests.
I design (fancy word for bodge) ALL my hive stands with extra width so frames can be leaned on side of hive with base resting on the stand.
Makes life so much easier. KISS.


If I want to actually play around with a frame - eg catching a queen - and she runs around a lot - place the frame in a self contained frame holder which can be placed on top of a roof and inspected at leisure.

But runny queens = runny bees which are a pia and I tend to requeen asap.

(From my own home raised queens)
My stands are all singles with no extra space for putting things on. (Double vs single stands is another issue, with arguments for either choice but, for me, singles win out.)

A 'self contained frame holder' is also another piece of equipment to carry to the apiary. Or is this just a nuc?

My hangers are just the end hooks without the bar so don't exactly take up much room in the box. I did buy one similar to the Thornes version some years ago but gave it up as it's bulky and only fits the national box. (Look after a friend's commercials.)
 
Taking a dummy out always leaves me enough room to lift the frames out without rolling bees and like Philip I like to leave all the bees in the box. I tend to put the dummy back at the other end when I'm done. I have found queens on the first frame.......and on the QX or crown board while I'm at it. It pays to be careful. Has anybody found that they can eventually get only ten frames with ease in Abelo boxes?
I always put the dummy at the back of the hive. Frames are warm way and the first couple are always pollen.

Yes you could go to 10 frames to keep more space. My friend's commercial boxes have the same problem. But I can fit eleven easily with space for the dummy, just want a slightly bigger space for inspecting.
 
For what?
Hanging the smoker on of course as...
1 if you put it down invariably the smoker falls over and goes out
2 putting it on a polly lid will melt the lid
3 Some of us due to disability can not hold the smoker between our knees AKA masterbeekeeper BBKA... since we have one knee missing!

What did you think it was for?

Chons da
 
Hanging the smoker on of course as...
1 if you put it down invariably the smoker falls over and goes out
2 putting it on a polly lid will melt the lid
3 Some of us due to disability can not hold the smoker between our knees AKA masterbeekeeper BBKA... since we have one knee missing!
I have 2 knees and still can't manage to hold the smoker between my knees!
Luckily I don't have poly roofs!😉
 
Some of us due to disability can not hold the smoker between our knees AKA masterbeekeeper BBKA... since we have one knee missing!
Some of us, due to common sense would not hold the smoker between our knees
 
I have also found that I can only get ten frames in with comfort.
Eleven new frames in an Abelo leaves about 5mm free at either end of the box, which is enough wriggle room to remove the second frame with ease (I never remove the first as it's the one most likely to roll bees) even if loaded.

I use eleven in Abelos all season long and without issue, but if you allow 3-4 mm. of propolis to build on a few Hoffmans then you'll always end up with a tight box.

Another essential: when you're done, close those frames up tight by levering the frames with your hive tool against the wall; if you do, the gap at either end of the box should return and propolis will be limited on Hoffmans.

If you want to use ten, the end frames will be built fat on the outside face to fill the gap; leave them and go for the second frame.

One of the benefits of that slight gap in the Abelo box is that it deletes the expense and labour of a dummy board.
 
If you are inclined to go for nationals, and don't know if you want double deeps or 14 x 12s, you could start with deeps. If you then decide to go 14 x 12, there are ekes available/you could make ekes, to convert BS deep to 14 x 12....
I went from National to 14x12 by using ekes with no problems.
 
Eleven new frames in an Abelo leaves about 5mm free at either end of the box, which is enough wriggle room to remove the second frame with ease (I never remove the first as it's the one most likely to roll bees) even if loaded.

I use eleven in Abelos all season long and without issue, but if you allow 3-4 mm. of propolis to build on a few Hoffmans then you'll always end up with a tight box.

Another essential: when you're done, close those frames up tight by levering the frames with your hive tool against the wall; if you do, the gap at either end of the box should return and propolis will be limited on Hoffmans.

If you want to use ten, the end frames will be built fat on the outside face to fill the gap; leave them and go for the second frame.

One of the benefits of that slight gap in the Abelo box is that it deletes the expense and labour of a dummy board.

Ah but if you use castellations Eric, you always have 11 frames equally spaced all season, never have to worry about squishing bees/queens between the Hoffmans and get cheaper frames 😄
Now just to get these worms back in this tin...............
 
Ah but if you use castellations Eric, you always have 11 frames equally spaced all season, never have to worry about squishing bees/queens between the Hoffmans and get cheaper frames 😄
Now just to get these worms back in this tin...............


I must be doing something wrong, I cannot recall ever squashing a queen during inspections. :cool:
 

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