Honey extraction shopping list šŸ˜

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A heated uncapping knife if you want cappings or a hot air gun if you don't want to mess around with cappings. You need a large tray and a piece of wood with a nail through the middle that you fasten to one end of the tray. You can put the end of your top bar on the point of the nail and uncap with either of the two methods. The cappings will fall into the tray. Not quite that easy but can post a photo if that will help!
As in this thread
https://beekeepingforum.co.uk/threa...ing-a-hot-air-gun-for-those-interested.51212/

Really good video Enrico, a follow up question (or two or three!) to that if you donā€™t mind. What temperature do you set the heat gun at and how far away do you hold it from the frame? Are the bees happy enough to reuse the comb then after the heat gun has been used on them? I also saw some commentary on another site about this method being fine for dry cappings but not on wet cappings as they melt on top of the honey and can cause issues? Is that something youā€™ve experienced? Also, Iā€™m not sure of the difference between wet cappings and dry cappings. One for Google!
 
One of the best things I ever bought for extraction after years of messing around with newspapers etc was a dirt cheap polypropylene tarpaulin of the right size to cover the floor in my kitchen completely. Then put the extractor, buckets and the table and supers on top of it so it doesn't budge. Any drips and leaks are contained. Have a sheet of cardboard or newspaper on the tarp at the door to leave your shoes behind when you go to the loo etc so all the sticky stuff gets left behind. Change this occasionally. When finished oll the tarpaulin up and rinse cycle 3 times in the washing machine does the trick. On to the line to dry, fold it up and put it into the cleaned out extractor until next year when you will have forgotten where you put it..... Seriously though this is a real boon especially with the kitchen goddess!!
 
Any ideas on the best place to get jars and lids from?
I got stung on delivery charges last season (my first!).
No pun intendedā€¦.
I bought three trays of 33.....99 in total 280ml/12oz hexagonal jars with lids.....Ā£19.01 per 33 jars ...free shipping over Ā£50 I think.
Seemed like a reasonable deal šŸ™‚
Freeman and Harding the company was called...just some internet company..
 
Freeman and Harding the company was called...just some internet company..
No, no. You chose well. They're a good company.

Heat guns: if you find melted wax partly closes the cells after melting the cappings, lightly fork over the surface. (Short video)
 
Really good video Enrico, a follow up question (or two or three!) to that if you donā€™t mind. What temperature do you set the heat gun at and how far away do you hold it from the frame? Are the bees happy enough to reuse the comb then after the heat gun has been used on them? I also saw some commentary on another site about this method being fine for dry cappings but not on wet cappings as they melt on top of the honey and can cause issues? Is that something youā€™ve experienced? Also, Iā€™m not sure of the difference between wet cappings and dry cappings. One for Google!
I have used two types of heat guns, a paint stripper which was a bit too hot so you had to be careful but the one I use now is one designed for heating coverings on model air planes. It has two settings and I use it on the hot one. There are probably ones designed for honey but as long as it melts the cappings it doesn't really matter. A hair dryer won't do it! It helps to have a directive tube on the end to narrow the hot air blast.
The secret is to keep it moving starting at the top of the frame so that the melted wax runs down the frame. You will see the cappings pop open as you move the gun. They do tend to pop the wax in quite a wide area so have plenty of coverings over important surfaces! The bees have no problem at all with it. If you bruise the wax cappings so they touch the honey underneath then the capping will not melt.(wet cappings) There is no reason why you should have cappings like that unless they are old frames or you have been heavy handed with them. I have used every type of uncapping method in 40 years and this suits me more than any other!
 
This is my first year keeping bees and I extracted a couple of weeks ago.
I used a large serated knife that I have already in the kitchen to remove the cappings, its fiddly at first but you soon figure out a knack of doing it.
I used a large food grade bucket with a length of wood rested on top of it to put the frames on whilst I removed the cappings.
You hold the frame in one hand whilst resting it on the wood over the bucket whilst cutting off the cappings. So the cappings and some of the honey fall/drip into the bucket below.
This I later strained through a collander (again from the kitchen, already had in).
I borrowed the spinner extractor from my beekeepers association. Cost a fiver and had it for one week. It was a manual spinner not electric but it did the job. Holds I think 12 frames at a time, but I only had 8 frames so ample for me.
I strained it into another food grade bucket through the collander that I had already in the kitchen. I will definitely get a proper filter for next year though. I had to use kebab sticks to hold it in place over the bucket, which worked well enough for this year.
I got jars from where I work, staff discount, 72 half pound jars and 48 quarter pound jars (something like 220grams and 100 grams in modern parlance).
As I am not planning on selling them this year, just gifting to friends and family, I will get the very nice ladies at work to print some labels for me.
I havent bottled the main bucket yet as I have been getting building work done at home so just sealed the bucket and left it until the dust has been dealt with. But I did bottle what I got from straining the cappings, that is for me and my hubby, and there was a 1kilo jar plus approx a half of a 1 pound jar (mixed measures I know, deal with it , haha ) I had these jars in, saved from something I bought in the past, I do like to keep a selection of random jars for storing bits and bobs that I get. I wouldnt use these to sell obviously, or even to gift, these are for my own use.
It tastes delicious, much better that shop bought, it has a wonderfully delicate floral afterflavour.

Do put some newspaper or a plastic sheet or something down on the floor, there will be a few drips and spills.
Put on the radio or whatever you like to listen to, and take your time doing it all. Relax and enjoy it.
 
Really good video Enrico, a follow up question (or two or three!) to that if you donā€™t mind. What temperature do you set the heat gun at and how far away do you hold it from the frame? Are the bees happy enough to reuse the comb then after the heat gun has been used on them? I also saw some commentary on another site about this method being fine for dry cappings but not on wet cappings as they melt on top of the honey and can cause issues? Is that something youā€™ve experienced? Also, Iā€™m not sure of the difference between wet cappings and dry cappings. One for Google!
I have a Bosch 3 setting heat gun set to highest setting about 500C. Melts cappings in path in under 1 second - wax spatter so cardboard on surface essential to save cleaning. Yes: cappings with no air gap (dark wax vs white) melt and then reseal - I used uncapping spines to pierce those just before I insert into extractor - or they ooze honey.
Basically 80% or so of cappings done with zero mess.

AND remember if the honey passes the "does not drip test," extract from uncapped frames.. far quicker. (A refractometer helps),

Lots of short cuts: (old books pre 1980s are useless as cheap refractometers did not exist)
 
One of the best things I ever bought for extraction after years of messing around with newspapers etc was a dirt cheap polypropylene tarpaulin of the right size to cover the floor in my kitchen completely. Then put the extractor, buckets and the table and supers on top of it so it doesn't budge. Any drips and leaks are contained. Have a sheet of cardboard or newspaper on the tarp at the door to leave your shoes behind when you go to the loo etc so all the sticky stuff gets left behind. Change this occasionally. When finished oll the tarpaulin up and rinse cycle 3 times in the washing machine does the trick. On to the line to dry, fold it up and put it into the cleaned out extractor until next year when you will have forgotten where you put it..... Seriously though this is a real boon especially with the kitchen goddess!!
What is better is a few square metres of vinyl flooring ... I picked up an end of roll - ghastly colour - 5m x 2m piece for Ā£10 from the local carpet shop - covers virtually the whole kitchen floor - no wrinkles like you get with a tarp - lays flat and cleans up with a mop and bucket or a hose down in the garden. Rolls up for next year .... as long as the shed fairies have not spirited it away to the garage like they did last year when it took me an hour to find it !
 

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This is my first year keeping bees and I extracted a couple of weeks ago.
There's nothing like your first honey! Keep a jar, label it and don't eat it. I have a jar kept back from every year plus the odd exceptional event.

I got jars from where I work, staff discount, 72 half pound jars and 48 quarter pound jars (something like 220grams and 100 grams in modern parlance).
As I am not planning on selling them this year, just gifting to friends and family, I will get the very nice ladies at work to print some labels for me.
Now that is a useful place to work!
 
Question on using heat guns to melt wax.
Does the wax then remain in the honey, if so, will this not solidify slowly?

Does the heat affect the properties of the honey in any way?
 
What is better is a few square metres of vinyl flooring ... I picked up an end of roll - ghastly colour - 5m x 2m piece for Ā£10 from the local carpet shop - covers virtually the whole kitchen floor - no wrinkles like you get with a tarp - lays flat and cleans up with a mop and bucket or a hose down in the garden. Rolls up for next year .... as long as the shed fairies have not spirited it away to the garage like they did last year when it took me an hour to find it !
But don't do what I did and roll it up before you clean it. The propolis transfers to the underneath and next time you use it........ Say no more......
 
Question on using heat guns to melt wax.
Does the wax then remain in the honey, if so, will this not solidify slowly?

Does the heat affect the properties of the honey in any way?
You are melting a fraction of a millimeter and they don't really melt, they just sort of pop open. It is on each cell for a fraction of a second. The wax melts long before any heat gets transferred to the honey. The only thing to really watch out for is and partly filled cells as they will melt back to the honey level if you leave the gun on them. Once you are used to using it it is so quick and easy.
 
Did you make the sieve?
Did you make the sieve?
The cappings seive is just a bucket with the bottom cut out and some mesh inserted in place iof it. The stainless steel bolts allow it to be suspended over a similar bucket. I chuck the cappings in and overnight any honey remaining drains out. A couple of washes of the cappings after they have drained - I use the bucket seive again to let them dry .. and they are ready for rendering down.

It's Blue Peter stuff this one and it makes a massive difference to dealing with cappings.
 
But don't do what I did and roll it up before you clean it. The propolis transfers to the underneath and next time you use it........ Say no more......
Yes ... wise words ... I give mine a good mop before I take it up and then take it outside and give it a hose down before drying it on the washing line. Rolls up tightly with a hive strap round it until the next year. As I keep it in the shed I put a bit of pallet wrap around it to keep the critters out.... Just so much easier than newspaper/cardboard/tarps ... I tried them all - usually resulting in some level of marital stress ...
 

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