Resin Poured Hive Components?

[JazzJPH]

Hi all,

I've been thinking of making my own National Hive floor, brood box, supers and roof. I'd be making a stand for them too of course. I'll buy in the other stuff like QE and a perspex crown board.

I have a lot of pallet wood so would like to use that, rather than buy ply/OSB. I've done a small amount of resin work too, which got me wondering if the bees would be fine with resin.

For those who haven't seen resin pouring it this kind of thing -

I was thinking of making a mould for the entire brood box size, adding a few bits of scrap wood and then pouring the resin in. The mould would either be destroyed or designed to dismantle once the box is set. The only thing about this idea is to keep it simple I'd have to lose the lips at the top and bottom of the box and add them later, probably via plastic/wooden strip.

The mould I'm thinking of making would be similar to this below:

https://blog.rhysgoodwin.com/fabrication/resin-cast-project-enclosure/

So my questions to you experienced beekeepers out there:

1. What is the purpose of the bottom lip on a brood box/super and why can't it just be flush?

2. Is epoxy resin a suitable material for bees if it has cured, been cleaned and left for a while?

3. Would a transparent/translucent hive have any effect on the bees?


I know that it could get tricky but I'm keen on my DIY and I have the materials to make it all.

 

[Angry_Mob]

A transparent hive would screw with the bees circadian rhythm hence why so many observation hives come with shutters of some sort to darken the hive for the bees at night.

The only possibility is if you use a red translucent resin which should only allow the red light through which the bees can't see?

 

[deemann1]

That would be very expensive

 

[Ian123]

That would be very expensive

Not when works paying for the materials.......give it a go!!!!

 

[Newbeeneil]

1. What is the purpose of the bottom lip on a brood box/super and why can't it just be flush?


I assume you are referring to the lip that gives the boxes bottom bee space?

 

[SDM]

A transparent hive would screw with the bees circadian rhythm hence why so many observation hives come with shutters of some sort to darken the hive for the bees at night.

The only possibility is if you use a red translucent resin which should only allow the red light through which the bees can't see?

It only takes a few days for them to become accustomed to light.

 

[JazzJPH]

A transparent hive would screw with the bees circadian rhythm hence why so many observation hives come with shutters of some sort to darken the hive for the bees at night.

The only possibility is if you use a red translucent resin which should only allow the red light through which the bees can't see?

Thanks for the pointer. But if the hive is outside, away from artificial lighting, would transparent boxes be suitable? I was thinking more natural light and darkness might not be so bad?

 

[JazzJPH]

1. What is the purpose of the bottom lip on a brood box/super and why can't it just be flush?


I assume you are referring to the lip that gives the boxes bottom bee space?

Is that it? I could maybe make the box a little taller then. The simpler the shape the easier my mould. Once it's cured I suppose I could get the router on it to regain the lip.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

If you are talking of the top and bottom rails - the top one is there to make room for the longer national lugs whilst still keeping beespace in the rest of the hive - the bottom rail is to stop leaving a ledge/gap which would allow rainwater to enter between the brood box and super (or between a super and the next super) which would then collect onder the lugs or run down the inside walls

 

[madasafish]

A hive made of resin would be VERY heavy compared to wood and poly alternatives.
Resin is denser than both so heat conductance is likely to be greater.. which is bad news.

And resin heated to brood nest temperatures may - note may- give off odours for weeks if not months until seasoned.. Would that mean it is not food safe? (I don't fancy resin tainted honey)


Apart from that no-one else appears to have done it - maybe the above are why?

 

[masterBK]

Years ago I came across a beekeeper who made his broodchambers out of concrete. Now they were heavy!

 

[Ian123]

Jazz give yourself a project and have a crack am sure you could make up some snazzy designs within the boxes, you may even find some top end buyers for something rather funky anything sells on ebay!!!!!! Pls share the pics would like to see the end result, as to resin vapours just air out. I remember being told my bees would die in poly hives from the same......found it rather amusing as had spent several days removing bees from old oil drums that had an inch of residue cooking in the carribean sun

 

[JazzJPH]

A hive made of resin would be VERY heavy compared to wood and poly alternatives.
Resin is denser than both so heat conductance is likely to be greater.. which is bad news.

And resin heated to brood nest temperatures may - note may- give off odours for weeks if not months until seasoned.. Would that mean it is not food safe? (I don't fancy resin tainted honey)


Apart from that no-one else appears to have done it - maybe the above are why?

I quite like trying something new. You're right though - Abelo poly hives would be considerably lighter than a resin hive with density of 1.14g/cm3. I can lighten it a bit by adding low density stuff like scrap wood.

In my head I have this artistic, beautifully polished end product, but really I know it's going to resemble Homer Simpson's evil clown bed.

Jazz give yourself a project and have a crack am sure you could make up some snazzy designs within the boxes, you may even find some top end buyers for something rather funky anything sells on ebay!!!!!! Pls share the pics would like to see the end result, as to resin vapours just air out. I remember being told my bees would die in poly hives from the same......found it rather amusing as had spent several days removing bees from old oil drums that had an inch of residue cooking in the carribean sun

Yeah I think I'll give it a crack. I have the materials needed, may only have to buy a few bits and bobs. Will keep you posted with progress.

 

[JazzJPH]

If you are talking of the top and bottom rails - the top one is there to make room for the longer national lugs whilst still keeping beespace in the rest of the hive - the bottom rail is to stop leaving a ledge/gap which would allow rainwater to enter between the brood box and super (or between a super and the next super) which would then collect onder the lugs or run down the inside walls

I could achieve the top and bottom lips either by getting a router on the box or by clagging strips of timber/plastic. Thanks for clarifying their purpose, it helps a lot with the design.

 

[Murox]

I quite like trying something new. You're right though - Abelo poly hives would be considerably lighter than a resin hive with density of 1.14g/cm3. I can lighten it a bit by adding low density stuff like scrap wood.

In my head I have this artistic, beautifully polished end product, but really I know it's going to resemble Homer Simpson's evil clown bed.

Its a wonderfully 'bonkers' idea and I too share your vision of Homer's clown bed.

 

[Madge]

1. What is the purpose of the bottom lip on a brood box/super and why can't it just be flush?



I assume you are referring to the lip that gives the boxes bottom bee space?

Or make a top bee space National, then you won’t need to router in a bottom recess.

 

[EJackson]

interesting project - did this happen?