printing honey labels

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
A few members have recomended this company as being very good if you want to buy in labels;
http://tinyurl.com/yf3yrs2

This is an old thread, but the link above is still valid. I've bought from Phil at 'honey jar labels . co . uk' before but am now getting no response to emails and phone calls (over 2-3 weeks). I urgently need more labels …

I know he had some website problems and parts of it still don't seem to work. I'd like to match my current label stock, but don't want to place an order if there's a significant chance of it taking ages or not arriving at all.

Has anyone else not had a recent response or trouble getting order fulfilled?

Thank you

PS I should add … I was very pleased with previous labels from the company …
 
Last edited:
A few members have recomended this company as being very good if you want to buy in labels;
http://tinyurl.com/yf3yrs2


The only honey bee depiction I can find is on the "front label" page...and that one doesn't seem to appear in the label selection...Isn't it misleading to show these rather cute, fluffy bees rather than our proper, vicious, sting-happy, wasp-mimic honey gatherers??? ;)
 
Sting-happy? Nothing of the sort … mine are very relaxed

chilled-bees.jpg


I got my labels from Phil … all good :)
 
Not sure most customers want reminding that honey is produced by insects no matter how happy they look. Certainly don't tell them about the regurgitation process.
 
Hi
This an area I am experimenting with I have looked at spraying the label with lacquer to seal the Ink I have found that this works very well. Just a word make sure you do the spraying away from your honey room and allow to dry fully to avoid any possible contamination of you food preparation area i.e. honey room. I hope this helps.
Regards
Steve

Believe it or not, if you wipe over something that has been done on an inkjet printer with cooking oil..it will seal it.

Better option is a laser printer.
 
Just wondering if anyone knows if the honeyjarlabels website is still going? I've tried to contact them as want to get proper customised labels and tamper seals done but no reply from 2 emails.
 
Just wondering if anyone knows if the honeyjarlabels website is still going? I've tried to contact them as want to get proper customised labels and tamper seals done but no reply from 2 emails.

Just received a new set of labels from them.
Try Phil at psdesignandprint dot co dot UK as this is the one he replied on.
They took about a week from order.
 
Just received a new set of labels from them.
Try Phil at psdesignandprint dot co dot UK as this is the one he replied on.
They took about a week from order.

Same for me. Just got another thousand from Phil this week. They're very good labels and peel off really easily.
 
One advantage of printing your own labels is this. You wake up one morning and your partner has bottled all your honey for you... and didn't think to weigh how much honey was in each one. They just filled them by eye.

Do you
a) Shout and rebottle and label?
b) Work out that they had accurately filled them with 14oz of honey and print appropriate labels, while appearing appropriately appreciative?

In answering this consider whether you want to live in a peace zone or a war zone :)
 
One advantage of printing your own labels is this. You wake up one morning and your partner has bottled all your honey for you... and didn't think to weigh how much honey was in each one. They just filled them by eye.

Do you
a) Shout and rebottle and label?
b) Work out that they had accurately filled them with 14oz of honey and print appropriate labels, while appearing appropriately appreciative?

In answering this consider whether you want to live in a peace zone or a war zone :)

Retrospective check weigh.
Suggest you work in grams, and on a 1 gram scale.

Weigh a number (5? 10?) of empty jars plus their lids.
Calculate the average weight of one jar.
Round it UP to the next gram.

Add on the prospective honey weight - 397g for 14 oz.

Weigh a filled jar.
Ensure it is at least a few grams over the intended honey + jar weight.
Repeat until satisfied.
(Have you checked the accuracy of your scales? - Are they really accurate to 1%?)


You can check your scales by weighing any single chosen (filled) jar both on your scales and on scales at the post office. Record the results in your honey production book!

This exercise will also serve to demonstrate how seriously you take the matter of weighing.
Its not just something you need to do. Its something you NEED to do very carefully to ensure no slip-ups.

Its likely that there isn't any great problem. The eye can be very consistent. However, should you discover inconsistency, you have the option of either using a spoon (or honey lifter) to top up where needed, or to adjust your idea of a honey weight to claim - maybe 385 grams?



On the other hand, you could do a full statistical analysis of the weights of a calculated number of jars and ensure that the batch average and maximum deviation from average are within limits. Then you can put one of those funny little 'ce' marks on your label.
Or you can just take care never to sell short measure ...



/// One of the problems with using "jam jars" rather than specific "honey jars" is that the jam jars LOOK as though they haven't been properly filled when they do really have properly measured 4, 8 or 12 oz of honey in them.
This is because honey is more dense than jam.
It is a problem that I am prepared to deal with by over-filling, beyond the stated quantity.
OK, I'm not maximising my return (or rather minimising the cost of my hobby), but I'm relaxed about not being tight with my honey.
Legally, there is no problem with being 'generous' - UNLESS you are claiming to sell on the basis of average weight (which is where that CE mark comes in). If you are claiming an average, and have lots of jars comfortably over, the implication is that someone else has had very short measure, and you are in trouble. Don't go near that ruddy mark!
Much better to claim a 'minimum weight' of each package ... and be absolutely sure none fall below it.
 
Last edited:
I use http://www.honeyjarlabels.co.uk/ every time.

It is true, a good label enhances the selling point. Don't specify a particular flower .. just good beekeeping practice in lovely surroundings.

Filling? ..the eye is the judge, so as long as no gap between the lid base and the honey, you are safe. Don't overfill more or you are a)wasting your honey b) not conforming to the weight law.

Weigh each jar.. you are having a laugh.. too many for that malarkey.
 
Just to add that I am delighted with my new Dell 1760 colour laser printer.
Works a treat.

Avery's (free) software just about still works under Mac Yosemite, so I'm a happy bunny.

My labels are now much 'cleaner' (graphically) and IMHO smarter than the rather twee and cluttered (potentially illegally so) offerings from the major suppliers.
 
If you want the bees knees for DIY labels, google Label Planet and buy their waterproof labels. They really do what they say, although you will need a laser printer for them. Yes they cost a bit more than plain address labels but so much tougher.
 
.

Weigh each jar.. you are having a laugh.. too many for that malarkey.

I don't know how many you do each year, Heather, but last autumn I did about 400 jars, each of them slightly overweight for safety.

It's no burden. I use an electronic scale, which I cover in cling film to keep clean and unsticky. Place it under the tap. - then put the first jar on and set it to zero. Fill each one to just overweight - then whip it from under the (closed) tap and cap the first. Check the second (empty) jar isn't overweight (they rarely are) - and carry on.

It's surprisingly easy - even mildly therapeutic!

Dusty
 
IFilling? ..the eye is the judge, so as long as no gap between the lid base and the honey, you are safe. Don't overfill more or you are wasting your honey.
:iagree:

Weigh each jar.. you are having a laugh.. too many for that malarkey.

I tend to weigh one at the beginning to remind myself what 12 oz 'looks like' and fill them all up by eye after that - filling up to the thread gives you more than enough leeway weight wise I find .

Just to add that I am delighted with my new Dell 1760 colour laser printer.

I must say I'm delighted with my new one too - I pop in to see her after work, tell her what I need (she has all my templates stored on her PC) I call in and see her a couple of days later and they're all sat waiting for me :D
 
Last edited:
The answer was B) - That batch of honey was sold as containing 14oz of honey. There was actually slightly more in most jars.

I do normally weigh each jar (only did about 300 last year). Set the tare off the first jar, so every jar placed on the scales should read zero. Stop at 5g past the official weight so that everyone gets what they have paid for and to allow for inaccuracies in the scales.
 
I think the law only prohibits selling under weight

Its a little more complex if you are claiming to sell (or thought to be selling) on the basis of an average pack weight. (If these ones are way over, the average means some others would/could be way under, and that's where the problem, by inference, arises.)
Hence, it seems safest to make clear that your claimed "weight" is a minimum, so it will be "at least" that amount. I've taken to putting "Min 227g" and suchlike on my labels.
 
A few days ago I posted this -

...
Legally, there is no problem with being 'generous' - UNLESS you are claiming to sell on the basis of average weight (which is where that CE mark comes in). If you are claiming an average, and have lots of jars comfortably over, the implication is that someone else has had very short measure, and you are in trouble. Don't go near that ruddy mark!
Much better to claim a 'minimum weight' of each package ... and be absolutely sure none fall below it.


CORRECTION - it was the "e" mark that I was meaning not the "ce" mark.
Sorry! Put it down to age, or something like that.

The e mark is for production line auto packed goods and means that the weight is "estimated" based on the batch statistics.
Specifically -
- the average quantity of product in a batch of prepackages shall not be less than the nominal quantity stated on the label;

- the proportion of prepackages having a negative error greater than
the tolerable negative error shall be sufficiently small for batches of
prepackages to satisfy the requirements of the official reference test
as specified in legislation;

- no prepackage having a negative error greater than twice the tolerable negative error may bear the estimated sign.
Because it is about averages and errors, having significant positive errors (overweight) implies that others have significant negative errors.

However "pro" you might think that little e symbol might look on your label, I'd strongly advise hobby honey producers (doing manual jar filling) NOT to even dream of putting that thing on their labels!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top