Polysupers - Anypoint?

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I thought the OP was 'Poly supers, any point ?'

After all the x = 3y + r2 = 300l or 300 kg stuff I am non the wiser.

2 Kilowatt hours per kilo of honey... is what would be needed to ripen honey in the perfect insulating Super. How much extra do you want the bees to find with your choice of Super given that perfect ones arent available.
 
A question from a dummy .
Given that insulating cavity walls of houses plus attic insulation has thrown up unexpected condensation problems , black mould etc. , how does the none absorbing properties of Poly sit in the equation ?
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
A question from a dummy .
Given that insulating cavity walls of houses plus attic insulation has thrown up unexpected condensation problems , black mould etc. , how does the none absorbing properties of Poly sit in the equation ?
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It's not quite the same: (forgive the quoting from the internet but it puts it better than I could).

"Cavity wall insulation causing damp is very rare, but it's worth checking whether your home's at risk. You can use the checklist below to assess your home's damp risk. Ask any potential installer about these factors, too.

Damp could occur in properties as a result of cavity wall insulation if there is a combination of these factors:

your home is exposed to severe levels of wind-driven rain (zones three or four in our map, right)
your home is located in an unsheltered position, eg not protected by trees or other buildings
the external walls are poorly built or maintained with, for example, cracks in the brickwork or rendering.
Published guidance by the Building Research Establishment says that in these cases there is 'an increased risk of rain penetration if a cavity is fully filled with insulation'. Rain could penetrate the outer wall, bridge the cavity via the insulation material and transfer moisture to internal walls, causing damp

The other problem with cavity wall insulation is 'cavity bridging':

It is true that filling the cavity with insulation can cause damp and this is usually due to lumps of mortar (known, endearingly, in the trade as snots) lying on the cavity tie.

As the wall was built it is possible that mortar fell in the cavity and came to rest on the ties.The process is that rainwater hits the external skin and penetrates to the snot sitting on the tie. That is not a problem in an open cavity as the ventilation will dry any moisture penetration before it reaches the inner skin.

Fill the cavity with non-breathing insulation and that will stop any ventilation. The rainwater will still hit the external skin and penetrate to the snot but now cannot be evaporated away and continues to penetrate to the inner skin and emerges as a damp spot.

Ideally you will check that your cavity is clean before filling it with insulation. Reputable insulation companies will do this for you as a matter of routine and give you an honest answer. Less reputable companies may say they have done it and give a more or less honest answer. Distinguishing between the two is the usual process of asking for and taking up references – from customers that had their cavities filled at least 12 months previously.

Alternatively, get someone like Dyno Rod to check the cavity for yourself (other drain cleaning companies are available). It is a quick, simple process of drilling a few 15mm holes in the wall, sticking in a little camera and seeing what the cavity is like. Companies like Dyno Rod use cameras for checking drains all the time and are set up to do this for you.

As to condensation, this occurs when warm air meets a cold surface – glass of chilled Chablis in a warm pub – the condensation appears on the outside of the glass. It is far more likely to occur with uninsulated walls as they are the cold surface.

Insulating the cavity allows the inner skin of the wall to become warm, essentially pushing the dew-point back into the wall where there is then a possibility of condensation within the brickwork – known as interstitial condensation. If this is going to occur it is generally on the inside surface of the external skin of brickwork.

The effect of interstitial condensation will vary with the insulation. If polyurethane foam is used it becomes bonded to the brickwork and prevents any condensate running down the wall, holding it in the brickwork where frost action could cause damage. Blown fibres tend to overcome the problem by allowing any condensate to trickle down the wall to the damp-proof course and away out of the wall. As a consequence the majority of companies offering cavity insulation use blown fibre rather than polyurethane. Again, a reputable company will sort this out and it is generally not a problem.

If all of this means that cavity-fill insulation is not a good idea for you, think about internal or external insulation. But whatever, insulate the walls - 35% of heat lost from the home is through the walls. "



It's less of a problem in a solid poly or Kingspan hive as there is a single layer of insulation... or in my case a timber/poly/timber hive as the outer and inner walls are timber and can breathe. I haven't had any condensation problems in my hive .... despite (or because of) having my 8mm polycarbonate crown board sealed to the top of the hive .. only airflow is via the periscope top entrance and a mesh floor.
 
Oh dear, he doesn't look any futher than his table of physical and chemical constants.

Yep, there are plenty of details on the net where the nectar is already of far higher solids than 20% at arrival in the hive. It seems that 30% is the typical minimum and 40% might be the norm.

He is pushing if if his honey is actually 16%, typical is more like 18 1/2%.

He omits to mention evaporation is carried out by reduction of ambient air temperature and not by extra heat provided, although some will by virtue of bees fanning - like puddles evaporate by loss of molecules from the surface but the phase boundary is kept out of equilibrium by the removal of the evaporated molecules (by air movement).

He ignores the surplus of thermal energy which must be removed from the colony to avoid overheating, the need to remove the water vapour from the hive, not just to evaporate same.

He says one thing and then makes increase of 50% - 40kg was good for him, but he sneakily increases it to 60kg (yes, over 130 lbs). What, I am wondering, is actually a good season? The average season yields what? I won't bother to look up the b-ka figures. Perhaps he doesn't mean good but exceptional?

While a great deal more water is expelled by a colony over the season, I still maintain his figure of 300kg is very excessive for moisture reduction of the crop.

Have a look here to see that it is not as simple as some like to make out.

http://m.rsbl.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/4/3/299.fullHere

Here are a couple extracts from this work:

"...substantial increase in the concentration of the crop contents that was already apparent in honeybees captured at flowers and increased further on the return flight."

"Bees at Rust de Winter returned with an average of 7.2 mg sugar in their crops. Based on the residual nectar concentration of 21.8%, bees would need to collect 33.0 mg of nectar to obtain this amount of sugar. From this, 14.8 mg of water was evaporated before return to the hive, leaving 11.0 mg of water in nectar with a concentration of 39.5%. Roodeplaat bees collected smaller loads but also evaporated more than half of the nectar water before return to the hive."

Maybe in the UK, mellifera (the above was scutellata, but never mind) may be different, but
the principle will still apply, I am sure.

Now lets look at 60kg of honey at 18.5% water from nectar received at the hive at 60% water. Just 122kg of water to be removed, and a most of it by simple air movement and using excess heat from the colony (think here how long it does not take for a colony to overheat if not ventilated while travelling. Now whether that is due to the bees fanning more frantically, I do know not, but the brood and bees are all respiring, producing heat, just as we do. 40kg would drop that figure to around 80kg of water to be removed.

We are not in the same situation as in the winter cluster where all the heat derived from carbohydrate is used to maintain colony temperature; in summer the hive must be ventilated at all times anyway.

So regarding the claim that more water needs to be evaporated to evaporate all the original water is, frankly, rubbish. There may be some, but not all by a long way.

One perhaps need to look at the wood on occasions, not just the odd tree that happens to take your fancy? Not taking things to the extreme beyond common sense observation? And being rather more susceptible to the notion that bees are not stupid and have been perfecting their techniques for far longer than **** saiens has been around.

I think I will rest my case at this point as it is pointless arguing - what with the paper about to be published. :icon_204-2: Let's wait and see if this is included in it. Won't be long now, been coming for about the last couple of years?

RAB
 
Don't know where your post has disappeared ?
My house is Accrington brick built, cavity walled 1937, same vintage as me :) it has both cavity and roof insulation, cavity insulation is blown fibre . The house is built on 2' concrete foundations ,with suspended wooden floors . The void under the house has 2" site concrete.
The void is 4'6" deep very well ventilated .
No problems with condensation here, in fact the plaster is original and as sound as a pound !
One thing I noticed (prior to cavity insulation), is that the cavity was still a cavity right down to the footings ? I know because I dropped a scraper when clearing spiders webs from the under floor air bricks I felt it land at my feet as it were!
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Oh dear, he doesn't look any futher than his table of physical and chemical constants.
[ got a collection of over 200 papers on bees ]
Yep, there are plenty of details on the net where the nectar is already of far higher solids than 20% at arrival in the hive. It seems that 30% is the typical minimum and 40% might be the norm.

He is pushing if if his honey is actually 16%, typical is more like 18 1/2%.
[16.5 and nearly all still uncapped]
He omits to mention evaporation is carried out by reduction of ambient air temperature and not by extra heat provided, although some will by virtue of bees fanning - like puddles evaporate by loss of molecules from the surface but the phase boundary is kept out of equilibrium by the removal of the evaporated molecules (by air movement).

Confusion of heat and temperature and work . Heat removal by evaporation occurs at low, as well as high temperatures. You then need to add heat just to maintain the same temperature (did this in my first physics lesson at grammar school) fanning is work is heat. the removal of the energetic molecules in the liquid surface reduces the average energy of the molecules remaining in liquid i.e. reduces the Temperature of the liquid.

He ignores the surplus of thermal energy which must be removed from the colony to avoid overheating, the need to remove the water vapour from the hive, not just to evaporate same.
[ simple observation of the insulated hive on a warm morning, during a flow shows there is no vigourous ventilation going on despite all the bees being inside. thus showing that the base heat loading in a insulated hive is not very significant, one of the things I checked cos I didnt want any overheating]

He says one thing and then makes increase of 50% - 40kg was good for him, but he sneakily increases it to 60kg (yes, over 130 lbs). What, I am wondering, is actually a good season? The average season yields what? I won't bother to look up the b-ka figures. Perhaps he doesn't mean good but exceptional?
[veg and finski always seem to do lot more and we are 2km+ from any farmers fields]
While a great deal more water is expelled by a colony over the season, I still maintain his figure of 300kg is very excessive for moisture reduction of the crop.

Have a look here to see that it is not as simple as some like to make out.

http://m.rsbl.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/4/3/299.fullHere

Here are a couple extracts from this work:

"...substantial increase in the concentration of the crop contents that was already apparent in honeybees captured at flowers and increased further on the return flight."

"Bees at Rust de Winter returned with an average of 7.2 mg sugar in their crops. Based on the residual nectar concentration of 21.8%, bees would need to collect 33.0 mg of nectar to obtain this amount of sugar. From this, 14.8 mg of water was evaporated before return to the hive, leaving 11.0 mg of water in nectar with a concentration of 39.5%. Roodeplaat bees collected smaller loads but also evaporated more than half of the nectar water before return to the hive."

Maybe in the UK, mellifera (the above was scutellata, but never mind) may be different, but
the principle will still apply, I am sure.


selective quoting - This was in VERY different conditions - RH for these findings was 10% . UK is dramatically higher lowest monthly average is 72% (june) So its completely invalid to use this



Now lets look at 60kg of honey at 18.5% water from nectar received at the hive at 60% water. Just 122kg of water to be removed, and a most of it by simple air movement and using excess heat from the colony (think here how long it does not take for a colony to overheat if not ventilated while travelling. Now whether that is due to the bees fanning more frantically, I do know not, but the brood and bees are all respiring, producing heat, just as we do. 40kg would drop that figure to around 80kg of water to be removed.

We are not in the same situation as in the winter cluster where all the heat derived from carbohydrate is used to maintain colony temperature; in summer the hive must be ventilated at all times anyway.
[ simple observation of the hive on a warm morning, during a flow shows there is no vigourous ventilation going on despite all the bees being inside. thus showing that the base heat loading in a insulated hive is not very significant.
In addition observation in wooden hive shows lots more of bees over the brood, both in flow and out of flow than in insulated hive which would account for faster build up in insulated hives]

So regarding the claim that more water needs to be evaporated to evaporate all the original water is, frankly, rubbish. There may be some, but not all by a long way.
[false assertion - the water of combustion is still water and needs to be removed from the hive that is all thats I claim.]
One perhaps need to look at the wood on occasions, not just the odd tree that happens to take your fancy? Not taking things to the extreme beyond common sense observation? [our bees are in the garden hard not to observe] And being rather more susceptible to the notion that bees are not stupid and have been perfecting their techniques for far longer than **** saiens has been around.

I think I will rest my case at this point as it is pointless arguing - what with the paper about to be published. :icon_204-2: Let's wait and see if this is included in it. Won't be long now, been coming for about the last couple of years?
[this is not included]
RAB

Selective quoting from papers and poor physics, false assertions see above.
 
Last edited:
A question from a dummy .
Given that insulating cavity walls of houses plus attic insulation has thrown up unexpected condensation problems , black mould etc. , how does the none absorbing properties of Poly sit in the equation ?
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

water absorbtion in wood is a double edged sword as the water absorbtion increases the rate of heat loss. (almost doubles it). So dont keep it damp especially as things eat it.(moulds etc)

Lots of debate of where vapour barriers should be in retrofit insulation in houses.

poly does absorb some water but nothing like wood, and as far as I know nothing eats it so it doesnt have mold created from it, but only from surface contamination.
 
Last edited:
Don't know where your post has disappeared ?
My house is Accrington brick built, cavity walled 1937, same vintage as me :) it has both cavity and roof insulation, cavity insulation is blown fibre . The house is built on 2' concrete foundations ,with suspended wooden floors . The void under the house has 2" site concrete.
The void is 4'6" deep very well ventilated .
No problems with condensation here, in fact the plaster is original and as sound as a pound !
One thing I noticed (prior to cavity insulation), is that the cavity was still a cavity right down to the footings ? I know because I dropped a scraper when clearing spiders webs from the under floor air bricks I felt it land at my feet as it were!
VM

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sounds like an ideal candidate for the cavity wall insulation and loft insulation you already have ... you must be snug as a a bug in a rug ! Next best thing to a well insulated hive VM !! Bet you noticed a difference after insulating ...
 
however, RAB did make one good point the amount of water to be expelled and energy required is very dependant on the sugar concentration of the nectar.

I did find this on Nectars we find in this country
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1198142/pdf/biochemj00897-0131.pdf. (down load then view)
which has a few surprising lows in it.(ivy is one at 10 to 11%)

and for oil seed rape
http://www.researchgate.net/publica...nd_qualitative_variability_among_71_genotypes
varies from 30% to 10%


The 60kg 20% was meant to be an example of how it could be 300kg +

Since every year is different, here is a table of values for a single 10Kg super at varying concentrations of nectar the water to be removed from the hive and the energy consumed in ripening.
10% 176kg 171MJ
15% 89Kg 108MJ
20% 55Kg 76MJ
25% 37.7Kg 57MJ
30% 27.5Kg 44MJ
35% 20.9Kg 35MJ
40% 16.2Kg 28.5MJ
 
Last edited:
Sounds like an ideal candidate for the cavity wall insulation and loft insulation you already have ... you must be snug as a a bug in a rug ! Next best thing to a well insulated hive VM !! Bet you noticed a difference after insulating ...


Not altogether :(
The 4'6" void with its 10 air bricks and honeycomb internal walls ensures a good flow of air under the wooden floor .
Problem is , when there's a cold wind blowing, irrespective of direction the heat gets pulled out of the house .
In uncarpeted areas the draught can be a bugger .
In the dining room one has only to open a drawer of a built in cupboard to feel the rush of cold air .
To insulate the floor would be easy given the total access the void presents but I can't help feeling this would nullify the intention of the original build of protecting the timbers?
Sorry for stealing the thread but it opens up another facet of the " insulate/ ventilate " discourse.
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Not altogether :(
The 4'6" void with its 10 air bricks and honeycomb internal walls ensures a good flow of air under the wooden floor .
Problem is , when there's a cold wind blowing, irrespective of direction the heat gets pulled out of the house .
In uncarpeted areas the draught can be a bugger .
In the dining room one has only to open a drawer of a built in cupboard to feel the rush of cold air .
To insulate the floor would be easy given the total access the void presents but I can't help feeling this would nullify the intention of the original build of protecting the timbers?
Sorry for stealing the thread but it opens up another facet of the " insulate/ ventilate " discourse.
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
if it was a hive you would say put a super underneath it :)

if both if the top and bottom edges are not plastic /foam covered then the wood can still "breathe" even if the top is "breathing" into the floor boards.
I reckon put insulation between the timbers.

This is going to sound weird
to stop the drafts , close the toplevel airbrick ventilation into the rooms (I assume you have them)and put in instead vents to the underfloor void.
make sure you have the same number of air bricks in underfloor void on each side.
in hive terms you have removed the matchsticks and rely on the OMF instead :)
 
Last edited:
I'll do this, insulation is available to match the old imperial measurements !
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I'll do this, insulation is available to match the old imperial measurements !
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

This is going to sound weird
to stop the drafts , close the toplevel airbrick ventilation into the rooms (I assume you have them)and put in instead vents to the underfloor void.
make sure you have the same number of air bricks in underfloor void on each side.
in hive terms you have removed the matchsticks and rely on the OMF instead I have assumed insulation is already on the crown board :)

something like this is done to provide draftless ventilation for solid fuel stoves.
There you have a duct that crosses the building under the floor with an grill in the floor by the stove.
http://www.solidfuel.co.uk/pdfs/design_guide.pdf
 
Last edited:
Nicely put :)
Unfortunately this property has but two vents ,one in bathroom and one in box room . The rub is there are four active chimneys in the property ,only one having a gas fire for occasional use.
Underfloor vents are already in place and balanced (sort of )
VM
 
Nicely put :)
Unfortunately this property has but two vents ,one in bathroom and one in box room . The rub is there are four active chimneys in the property ,only one having a gas fire for occasional use.
Underfloor vents are already in place and balanced (sort of )
VM

four active chimneys ... definitely big draft potential.
tried bigger vents next to the fires?
 
To insulate the floor would be easy given the total access the void presents but I can't help feeling this would nullify the intention of the original build of protecting the timbers?
Sorry for stealing the thread but it opens up another facet of the " insulate/ ventilate " discourse.
VM
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes same problem in my son's Victorian terrace house in Sheffield when he decided that sanded and sealed original floorboards were his 'style'. He has a full cellar beneath the ground floor. He found that sealing the gap between the skirting board and the floor with a sealant helped enormously and he has (following the recommendations of the Energy Saving Trust) put 100mm of Kingspan between the joists and plasterboarded out the cellar ceilings below the Kingspan ... Made a lot of difference. No draughts coming up and the floor feels warmer. The cellar was always damp and continues to be damp but no rot evident in the joists, before or after insulation.

http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/Insulation/Floor-insulation#2
 
I'll explore the use of chimney balloons in the redundant flues?
VM


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
wood is porous material and poly's aren't.
high humidity inside the hive and low humidity outside wouldn't this draw moisture through the wood and help with evaporation ?
 
wood is porous material and poly's aren't.
high humidity inside the hive and low humidity outside wouldn't this draw moisture through the wood and help with evaporation ?

intuitively yes it can draw the water out of the hive but this will still cool the hive as some of the water is transported as liquid and not just vapour.
but how much water can it draw?
this can be used to get an order of magnidtude figure
http://web.byv.kth.se/bphys/reykjavik/pdf/art_045.pdf
which is 10x 10E-8 Kg/m2
which means about 1.25 E-6 litres per second for a super
which means around 40 litres a year or more realistically 20L in a season.
however, what does the propolis do to this? ... it must reduce it but how much?

so it seems on the back of a *** packet around 10% of the water might go out through the wood. but that wood will be saturated and will conduct more heat, a lot more, upto 80% more. That will make the heat losses greater needing more fuel and so generate more water...
 
Last edited:
I hope I don't need my calculator on Thursday
 

Latest posts

Back
Top