Impression of MB's polyhive a year in.

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oliver90owner

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There has been a lot of discussion re the Paine of a poly and also their nucs. I don't particularly fancy their set ups, but have only seen them, not tried them (and don't intend to either, at this point).

Some will be aware that I have MB jumbo Langstroth six-frame nucs, modded for 14 x 12 frames I very much like them for over-wintering and for three-frame splits and last year tried one of their National hives.

Of course, without the 14 x 12 option for a brood box I went the '2 shallows' route, buying all parts needed for the hive. I fixed the floor to the brood as the frames protrude from the beneath if the brood and floor were separated (I avoided making a small eke to make the brood fully compatible with my timber floors. I can do that at any time I wish.

There was considerable flack from the likes of PH and comments from one or two others, particularly wrt the lip at the bottom of the boxes.

So one year on, my impressions. As a concept, the hive only has one minor drawback - that lip. The overriding findings are as follows (bear in mind this is one isolated colony test, so the bees may be a factor here).

Overwintering - my strongest colony in the spring. OK a funny autumn last year - hanging on until near Christmas, but this colony simply went through the winter with no problems at all. No winter oxalic acid trickle on any of my colonies. I lost one colony to mice (I think) and one other. Not bad considering my inability to get round some of them during the winter.

Spring buid-up - Again, it was soon streets ahead of my other hives and was 'supered' with an MB poly shallow early on (no Q/E fitted). There was soon brood in the super so another (a timber one this time) was added.

I found the timber shallow had brood in it but the colony was well away from the walls and the outer frames were not even drawn. Of course by then the weather had changed to this appalling spell of cold and wet.

It swarmed in the middle of May (just hours before an inspection) with three shallows fitted. The swarm was a huge one which was eventually housed into a 14 x 12 and a shallow, just half an hour before an appointment at hospital (why the inspection was arranged immediately after it). That swarm has since filled the 14 x 12 and shallow and could have had a further super - but for the inclement weather.

The queen cells were all removed bar one and a Q/E fitted above the brood box. It has collected three supers and could have had a fourth super fitted except that the weather was deemed too iffy (and I have not been able to give them the best of attention due to my health).

The thee supers have now been removed and the hive is 'chocka' with bees. A super will be added and/or some stores frames extracted from the brood box - not decided as yet.

Weight - The slightly smaller poly super was noticably easier for me to lug back to the house for extraction (packed full with honey, mind) and was another bonus for me (the lesser weight).

Now to those lips. They are a pain and will be removed. Not sure yet what to do with the plastic runners as they have lips, too. They may be replaced with a suitable section, may be cut off and filled/sealed with a resin, or perhaps I will see how they go with just the two side lips removed. I will look at the problem when the super is no longer required for the hive.

So my overall impression has been very favourable. I will not be buying any more timber hives (for more than one reason), but any further poly's will be 'broods and first shallow only', I would think. My home-made deep roofs with permanently fitted EPS insulation are compatible as are my timber floors (with an eke). My excluders (when needed) will be framed on just the one side, to take account of the top bee space.

I particularly wanted the same footprint for the poly as my timber format hives for compatibility; that precluded some poly hives on the market. Also the MBs are top bee space, so that is the same as the rest of my kit. My crown board was a simple piece of ply (only fitted when the timber supers were added).

This would not suit all beeks, that is for sure. But I don't mind making the small changes to suit my liking and am well pleased so far.

RAB
 
Rab,
I don't know if you have already done so, but a few pictures would be interesting/helpful, if you could...

Thanks and Regards,

Roche
 
Considerable flack from me?

I just pointed out that that lip is going to be an issue and it is for more than one person as I suspected it would. The same as the same principle caused issues with the timber Wormit hive. I even phoned the ex foreman at the makers to ask if it were an issue or was my memory playing tricks and the answer was "oh crikey yes"

And now there is a report on the forum of condensation in one! I couldn't believe my eyes on that one. Unheard of.

Nothing wrong with a little accuracy.

For general information I compare any poly product to the original I started with which was made in Germany some 35 years ago, and a friend of mine who introduced me to poly still has in day to day service on his Bee Farm broods from that time. I made hundreds of cuts modding broods to make supers and gluing the resultant offcuts to make even more supers with woodworkers external glue. That is the quality I take as my base line and also design. If the normal design is for flat mating surfaces, and the lip design was found to be not brilliant in service why design in a potential fault? P****s have done the very same with their scalloped front to their brood box.


PH
 
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Had a MB national in use for about a year until tonight ... the bees really clarted it with propolis, had to move them out it got so bad. Now we have two MB brood boxes a floor and roof relegated to the "spares" category. I will do some thermal conductance measurements on them in a few days so we can have a quantified comparison with wooden hives and tree nests.
 
I like my MB poly hives.
Still not decided about that lip. I would be happy to go MB exclusively but I have a lot of wooden gear so I run two cedar 14 x 12s and two poly.
I have a fair few MB supers and can get away without mix and matching.

I tried the two supers without an eke to start with as the floor is deep enough. The problem starts when you need to put those 2 supers on top of something else so I did use a wooden eke. In the end I butchered a super and added each "half" to a standard national and glued them together.

I can't comment sensibly on how well the bees have done as the weather played havoc this year but I can say that on the stronger MB hive I had wall to wall brood and nearly three supers of honey by the end of March. It rained for weeks after and it was all eaten.

The two cedar hives were still building up at that time.

The bees are up into a poly super quicker than into a wooden one.
During Thymol treatment there are many many more bees escaping the fumes on the front of the poly hives.

Perhaps if we have a more normal year re weather next year I can make a reasonable comparison.
 
nearly three supers of honey by the end of March. It rained for weeks after and it was all eaten.

What did they collect nearly 90lb of honey from by the end of march,and then eat it all.
 
I'm going with the Beehivesupplies new polyhive, the roof particularly seems to be much better designed than some others.

Big problem with the P@ines fish box is that bees build comb in the feeder compartment.

Only BIG problem is that I may not be able to use my beloved Varox Vaporiser without melting the hive... but then Tractor Man has not needed the dreaded Trickle in midwinter
My other concern with the P@ines fishbox is I like to use thymolated feed and wonder if it will attack the pollystyreen?
 
What did they collect nearly 90lb of honey from by the end of march,and then eat it all.
No.....
Pity really. It was your queen and would have been a good advert :) :)
Hardly any of it was capped so I guess there was much less than that.
I did take four frames that were partly capped

Perhaps my post contained a little hyperbole :rolleyes:
 
The built in feeder refers to the nucs not the hives. But we all know this of course. ;)

PH
 
Now to those lips. They are a pain and will be removed


Yes I remember PH has been consistent regarding the lips and it appears he is right.
 
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Now to those lips. They are a pain and will be removed

Yes I remember PH has been consistent regarding the lips and it appears he is right.

The trouble is that the matter is confused. The lip is on the mb langstroth on the top of the brood/supers fitting into a groove in the bottom of the brood/super placed on top. This makes them secure to transport but gives them compatibility issues with both other poly langstroths and wooden kit.
The mb national does not have this lip but has as mb call it a "sort of skirt". The matter is confused because people call them both lips.
 
I'd personally have a problem with having to use 2 MB supers to make a 14 x 12 brood box, it is possible yes but not really my thing bodging something together and end up paying nearly double. The bee hive supplies polys are way over priced (I'm a yorkshireman) I've got 3 pains hives now and the hand holds are a mistake and the feeder is only just fit for purpose but otherwise at a third cheaper the bee love them! :)
And if you paint them blue they look a little like a Tardis . . . .
 
Three full supers would not be 90lbs. Only fitted ten frames with spacers as the internal dimensions are down on a timber National (the outside dimensions are the same as the National hive). I would normally only get around that much (30lbs) in a timber shallow with eight or nine frames fitted, not eleven. Taking of some for 'nearly' will likely reduce the figure to less than two thirds of your estimate. Then we read that Erichalfbee removed some, so they maybe gobbled up as much as 50lbs. Still a lot, but a dreadful year (apart from in the Somerset Bahamas!)
 
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