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The rest of it is soldered and hasn't fallen apart. I think you are being a little pedantic over a point being made that the original shield is not removable?
 

hemo 

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Silver solder is used, having a higher melting point then lead solder or lead/tin mix.
 

victor meldrew 

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The rest of it is soldered and hasn't fallen apart. I think you are being a little pedantic over a point being made that the original shield is not removable?
pedantic ? Oh dear . Not pedantic .at all .
no part of it is soldered it is all brazed .
brazing is fusing the metal together at the melting point of same !
soldering s joining the parts together with solder which has a much lower melting point than the operating temperature of Gas Vap .
others read these threads ! Please don’t regard my comments as a personal attack .
.
 

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Except they are silver soldered, John's posts were removed some time ago, he mentioned it more than once because of the point you are making,
The point I was making was that the heat shield is fixed and not removable
 

hemo 

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The point I was making was that the heat shield is fixed and not removable
Although the heat shield is soldered to the main body a couple layers of the silicone sheet layer externally may still offer the handing needed with out gloves ?

Or one could offer up another heat shield on top of the existing one with the fibre washers and self tap it on.

I also have the early mk1 and am awaiting for Philips modding bits to arrive so to try.
 

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Multiple options, I agree but sadly not as neat as Pargyle's ;)
 

hemo 

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Yes, just a case of making it work being the early example. Never going to as neat as the mk2 version with removable shield.
 
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Well that was a failure. I bought a manual pill press off ebay ... the theory is that you put fomrer on the base, place the powder in to the former, put the 'presser' on top and belt it a few times with a soft faced hammer. You then take the former off the base and use the presser to push out the formed tablet.

I tried it with plain old boat cleaning OA .. it actually does make a nice tablet ... BUT ... as soon as you try to pick it up the tablet breaks up.



So .. it needs a binder of some sort to hold it together - you only need a small amount (less than 3 %) for an appropriate binder to work ... I'm thinking Glycerin powder.. it does not vapoourise until around 290 degrees which is significantly higher than OA sublimation temperature. If it does reach temperatures above this then what forms is Acrolein ... but in the proportions used for a binder even if some did reach this stage it would be minimal. Glycerin is used in E-cigarettes and small amounts of Acrolein are not considered seriously harmful although, like most aldehydes it is considered carcinogenic.

The other option is talc which is virtually inert when heated at normal temperatures, or possibly microcrystalline cellulose ... more experiments required.
 

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jenkinsbrynmair 

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Well that was a failure. I bought a manual pill press off ebay ... the theory is that you put fomrer on the nase, place the powder in to the former, put the 'presser' on top and belt it a few times with a soft faced hammer. You then take the former off the base and use the presser to push out the formed tablet.

I tried it with plain old boat cleaning OA .. it actually does make a nice tablet ... BUT ... as soon as you try to pick it up the tablet breaks up.



So .. it needs a binder of some sort to hold it together - you only need a small amount (less than 3 %) for an appropriate binder to work ... I'm thinking Glycerin poweder.. it does not vapoourise until around 290 degrees which is significantly higher than OA sublimation temperature. If it does reach temperatures above this then what forms is Acrolein ... but in the proportions used for a binder even if some did reach this stage it would be minimal. Glycerin is used in E-cigarettes and small amounts of Acrolein are not considered seriously harmful although, like most aldehydes it is considered carcinogenic.

The other option is talc which is virtually inert when heated at normal temperatures, or possibly microcrystalline cellulose ... more experiments required.
Try some silica - and maybe a pinch of sugar?
 
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No - I remember the conversation on it (instigated by the 'inventor') on this forum
Soldered
OK .. Let's put this to bed ...

Soft Soldering in the UK is generally tin based solder .. it melts below 450 degrees. If this were used in the GasVap it would fall apart. It is normally used for joing water pipes where they are not going to be exposed to direct heat.

Silver solder (or Hard Solder) is formulated with various quantities of silver in amongst other metals and the melting point is in excess of 450 degrees. Some silver solders require much higher temperatures and are, in some regions, referred to as silver braze.

Brazing uees an alloy of phosphorous bronze with around 6% silver to make it flow. The melting point will be over 1000 degrees C and can be higher.

I understand the Gas Vap uses Silver solder, although I don't know what grade so it will, within reason, stand up to the sort of temperatures provided by a culinary blowtorch ... I would not recommend using a MAPP gas torch or similar though as they are capable of melting silver solder.
 

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Hmmmm ... I think I've heard about someone using that combination ,,,, :eek::eek::eek:
Mmmm thinking about it again Philip, it might gum up the pan.
 

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Of course forget the tabletting and use loose material in a scoop - would
save buggering about.
Of course that would be the easier option but if we all went down that route we would have to spend more time with our partners....... not a good scenario. :eek:
 

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