Best Place to buy a NUC

[jeff33]

What bees did you get, this may dictate what size to go for. For example buckfast, carnies and Italians will need lots of space so the 14x12 will be good. If you have been sold pure native bees (note the sarcasm here) a standard national will do.

 

[Repwoc]

Competitive fly fishing.

 

[Swarm]

What bees did you get, this may dictate what size to go for. For example buckfast, carnies and Italians will need lots of space so the 14x12 will be good. If you have been sold pure native bees (note the sarcasm here) a standard national will do.

Oh dear, someone has believed the nonsense then.

 

[jeff33]

Competitive fly fishing.

I don't doubt that they exist with some good breeding programs of Amms in the UK but the pure native bees branding is easily slapped on by some sellers. This is what I was referring to in between the sarcasm.

 

[highgate]

What bees did you get, this may dictate what size to go for. For example buckfast, carnies and Italians will need lots of space so the 14x12 will be good. If you have been sold pure native bees (note the sarcasm here) a standard national will do.

"Native" I thought those were wiped out about 100 years ago, and have morphed into quasi hybrids AKA Buckfasts?!?!? Have I been misinformed?

Thanks for that reassurance on the 14x12 frames indeed he's saying that the Queens have been busy and that I'd definitely need the bigger frame. Puts my mind at ease.

Now follow on question though as my pocket wouldn't quite need that 2nd mortgage can we mix polys with wooden Nationals? Or is it better to take the hit and get a second wooden National for ease of swapping and playing? After all if the queen remains frisky there is a chance of it swarming later on in the year if I am not too careful :/

 

[Angry_Mob]

Now follow on question though as my pocket wouldn't quite need that 2nd mortgage can we mix polys with wooden Nationals? Or is it better to take the hit and get a second wooden National for ease of swapping and playing? After all if the queen remains frisky there is a chance of it swarming later on in the year if I am not too careful :/

It depends on the poly hive you go for. Abelo and Swienty are both compatible with wooden hives, the internal dimensions of the swienty however means it only takes 10 frames and it has a few other flaws. Maisemore and Paynes are larger externally and I don't believe the roofs are compatible with wood.

Try an Abelo alongside your wooden hive to compare, I don't think your third hive will be wood if you do.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

"Native" I thought those were wiped out about 100 years ago, and have morphed into quasi hybrids AKA Buckfasts?!?!? Have I been misinformed?

yes, shamefully so

 

[Curly green fingers]

yes, shamefully so

Let's not open a can here because this thread will go big time of topic about Amms....but more than 70/80%pure is good enough the rest being carnica.
The only way we can get pure is Instrumental insemination .

 

[TooBee...]

A piece of advice that is often overlooked is to match the equipment with the bee you intend to keep. This may sound confusing at the moment but some bees are more prolific than others. They will almost certainly require multiple (2-3) National sized brood boxes while a less prolific bee may only require one. Alternatively a larger format hive may be adequate for even the most prolific bee

That's a good point, I mentioned in passing the other day to a Beek that my colonies where into two brood boxes, I was told many beeks here just use one throughout the year, or sometimes a brood and a half (honey super), I have a different strain of bees.

Personally, I went for PINE, and have used Linseed oil, the third coat took ten days to FULLY dry I really soaked the end grains!

 

[highgate]

That's a good point, I mentioned in passing the other day to a Beek that my colonies where into two brood boxes, I was told many beeks here just use one throughout the year, or sometimes a brood and a half (honey super), I have a different strain of bees.

Personally, I went for PINE, and have used Linseed oil, the third coat took ten days to FULLY dry I really soaked the end grains!

Thanks for that. Having spoken to the breeder I've gone for a larger 14x12 National brood box, in Ceder (being the 1st).

Was looking to soak in a linseed/ bee's wax (5%) mixture is that necessary or too much like hard work and no payout?

Again, thanks for all your help.

 

[Newbeeneil]

I have never treated any of my cedar boxes and they look good as new after 4 years, just taken on that slight grey colour that weathered cedar reverts to.
Too much hassle to paint IMHO.
When you actually think about it your time and materials in painting probably won't extend the life significantly so replacing an unpainted box after 25 years is probably good value?

 

[Ian123]

Your avatar suggests at least some painted boxes!!!!, ive seen enough old boxes and wood work over the years to appreciate that mine require a coat of stain. Boxes are drier wood absorbs less moisture over the winter and whilst cedar is very stable it still splits. I do hate paint on boxes, but a decent stain is well worth the minimal effort/cost. A stain/preservative also has minimal if any prep to recoat other than a pass over with a stiff brush. But each to their own.

 

[TooBee...]

Thanks for that. Having spoken to the breeder I've gone for a larger 14x12 National brood box, in Ceder (being the 1st).

Was looking to soak in a linseed/ bee's wax (5%) mixture is that necessary or too much like hard work and no payout?

Again, thanks for all your help.

For PINE wood you MUST treat, I'm sure we've all seen how quickly pine wood deteriorates when exposed to the elements. But for CEDAR you don't need to treat (from what I've read and been told).

I idealistically intended to use beeswax as well, but settled for mixing Turps. in instead, the final coat was pure Linseed, I like working with it, but I used a brush instead of a cloth, because even though it was more work it resulted in more linseed being applied. BUT it will take many days to dry, especially if it's cold, ideally you want a nice dry, pleasant Saturday, open the garage door all day.

Interesting you should mention 14x12's, you're the third person that I've spoken to this fortnight that keeps Amm (or almost Amm's) and is deciding to go for 14x12's to enable them to have just one brood box.

 

[TooBee...]

Just remembered this recommendation that I was given,
I have not used it ... yet,

https://ecowoodtreatment.com/

one simple treatment, apparently 100% safe for bees, organic and lasts forever...

 

[For want of a better word]

Interesting you should mention 14x12's, you're the third person that I've spoken to this fortnight that keeps Amm (or almost Amm's) and is deciding to go for 14x12's to enable them to have just one brood box.

14 x 12 are an abomination for any bee!.... and more so for a beekeeper with back problems!!

I like OSB... Amm do very well in them... allows for natural expansion and no queen excluders are needed.
Easy beekeeping.....

KISS

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Thanks for that. Having spoken to the breeder I've gone for a larger 14x12 National brood box, in Ceder (being the 1st).

Personally, I'd have gone for double brood

Was looking to soak in a linseed/ bee's wax (5%) mixture is that necessary or too much like hard work and no payout?

No, Yes

 

[Newbeeneil]

Your avatar suggests at least some painted boxes!!!!, ive seen enough old boxes and wood work over the years to appreciate that mine require a coat of stain. Boxes are drier wood absorbs less moisture over the winter and whilst cedar is very stable it still splits. I do hate paint on boxes, but a decent stain is well worth the minimal effort/cost. A stain/preservative also has minimal if any prep to recoat other than a pass over with a stiff brush. But each to their own.

The painted ones are ones I purchased from a deceased beekeeper when I started