5 ML of premix per litre. or 3x Manley. around 1gm of crystals to 1 litre. Also experimenting with lemon grass essential oil in the mix....similar to honey bee healthy.
Last edited:
Autumn treatments
- Thread starter Monsieur Abeille
- Start date
Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:
ENZO
House Bee
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2009
- Messages
- 139
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Jersey C.I.
- Hive Type
- National
- Number of Hives
- 16
This autumn I will use Api Var Life (does not need an eke).
In late December I will be doing an Oxalic Acid treatment as last year I had a large mite fall after the christmas oxalic treatment which was proof that the treatment was needed.
If I need to feed at all I put thymol in the syrup which I believe helps with Nosema.
I think it's important to keep a check of the mite fall which helps to anticipate the treatment needed and when but so few people at least here seem to be bothered to check mite drop at all and then complain when their beekeeping does not go to plan.
It's been said many times, but it's true, the best way to get a colony through winter is not just about the treatments given, it's also about having young queens, a dry, well venitilated hive on good combs and healthy bees that can fight off all sorts of ailments (such as Nosema) that a weaker colony might not, I find that it's not even about the size of the colony going into winter as I have had small-ish/new-ish healthy colonies survive no problem and having large colonies with a high mite population/drop collapse by December.
Just some of my views and the treatments I'll be doing this year,
Enzo
In late December I will be doing an Oxalic Acid treatment as last year I had a large mite fall after the christmas oxalic treatment which was proof that the treatment was needed.
If I need to feed at all I put thymol in the syrup which I believe helps with Nosema.
I think it's important to keep a check of the mite fall which helps to anticipate the treatment needed and when but so few people at least here seem to be bothered to check mite drop at all and then complain when their beekeeping does not go to plan.
It's been said many times, but it's true, the best way to get a colony through winter is not just about the treatments given, it's also about having young queens, a dry, well venitilated hive on good combs and healthy bees that can fight off all sorts of ailments (such as Nosema) that a weaker colony might not, I find that it's not even about the size of the colony going into winter as I have had small-ish/new-ish healthy colonies survive no problem and having large colonies with a high mite population/drop collapse by December.
Just some of my views and the treatments I'll be doing this year,
Enzo
m100
Field Bee
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2009
- Messages
- 821
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Yorkshire
- Hive Type
- 14x12
- Number of Hives
- Enough
All that shows is that it is endemic and exists at at a subclinical level.
I know a bit more than I can reveal here and I guess in time there will be in a published paper, but Nosema is probably preventable and by knowing how it is preventable you will then be able to clearly see how Nosema continues to be endemic. (I hope that makes sense!)
susbees
Queen Bee
- Joined
- May 7, 2010
- Messages
- 3,231
- Reaction score
- 2
- Location
- Welsh Marches, by Montgomery
- Hive Type
- Commercial
- Number of Hives
- 35ish
Not exactly....surely this is the time of year when the bees are pretty much at their healthiest so bigger samples would be needed for detection if it is there at all. Amm are believed to be less prone to nosema owing to their gut biochemistry during the winter are they not?
Thats the word...endemic...spores are in soil,water ect,and can remain there for years.
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2010
- Messages
- 2,833
- Reaction score
- 422
- Location
- Midlands
- Hive Type
- National
- Number of Hives
- Enough
Grandwazoo asked a question and nobody has come forward with a definitive answer. I asked the same question elsewhere and got the NIL response. Does anybody have anything worthwhile (mere speculation not wanted thanks) to say please?
Arfermo
Arfermo
Yes....i found apiguard to be crap,just my opinion and findings,and apilif var is good but a waste of money because you can make your own, like i've been doing for eight years, before apilife var was even availible.
freckledbeck
New Bee
Could we have the recipe please, as I was going to buy some Apilifevar, but would prefer to make it if its cheaper! 
Last edited:
trying Tea tree 15 drops, manuka 5 drops and lemongrass 2 drops emuslified in letchin to 2ltr syrup as a Nuc feed....as the last time i said this on the Darkside forum i was torched
byefreckledbeck
New Bee
Thanks!
Black Comb
Queen Bee
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2009
- Messages
- 2,737
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- Cumbria
- Hive Type
- Other
- Number of Hives
- 10+
Afermo
I asked this same question all of 5 days ago.
Her's the thread with the answers.
http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=5867
I asked this same question all of 5 days ago.
Her's the thread with the answers.
http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=5867
OP
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2010
- Messages
- 2,984
- Reaction score
- 7
- Location
- Exmoor
- Hive Type
- None
- Number of Hives
- None of my own
Ah the perils of old age - thought I'd seen something about this recently (even contributed (?) a reply), but apparently too much info going in the grey matter for it all to be usefully retained.
Thanks for all your comments anyway. Think I may give Hivemakers mix a go, especially as I won't need to buy(make?) an eke. On balance most of you seem to be anti using Fumidil as a preventative.
I'll await the winter's debate on Oxalic with interest!
