Warming cabinet heater

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foghornleghorn

Field Bee
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
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Location
ireland
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Langstroth
Have gone through two fan heaters in the warming cabinet here over the last two months.
Both heaters worked perfect for a few weeks happily keeping temps at mid 40's, then the inbuilt thermostat/overheat protection decided to start kicking in at 27 degrees, after bending bimetallic strip so it doesn't cut out got the temperature up to 38 but no more.

Any suggestions of a heater model that has consistently worked for others or what might be happening to my heaters?

Need the bigger heater as the cabinet takes 4x60lb buckets at a time.
 
I use tube heaters the type for greenhouses and sheds..they come in all sizes..but make sure that they do not have a inbuilt temperature cut of switch..I have used the same heating tubes for reptiles which means they have to be on through out the years with no problems.
 
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Wouldn't it be easier to put the heaters on a single roomstat.
E
 
I use tube heaters the type for greenhouses and sheds..they come in all sizes..but make sure that they do not have a inbuilt temperature cut of switch..I have used the same heating tubes for reptiles which means they have to be on through out the years with no problems.


:yeahthat: These are what I use with no problems.
 
Tube heaters are great, but I've found you have to use the 2' (600mm) ones, I've tried two 12' (300mm)65W ones and they don't get up to temperature. You can buy these 'Tube' heaters with built in thermostats.
 
Have found two tube heaters a bit low in power, 1000w sends it straight up to temperature in 10 minutes
 
Tube heaters are great, but I've found you have to use the 2' (600mm) ones, I've tried two 12' (300mm)65W ones and they don't get up to temperature. You can buy these 'Tube' heaters with built in thermostats.

Blimey 12' tube heater? That's a big cabinet!

I use a 2' tube equivalent to 120w in a box made from 50mm polyurethane sheet which works well and maintains temperatures up to 60degs if required.
The important thing is the thermostat. I use an XT-W3001 that you can pick up for under £4 and works a treat.
 
or what might be happening to my heaters?

You answered your own question, shirley?

...then the inbuilt thermostat/overheat protection started kickin in at 27 degrees...

Replace the duff thermostat/overheat protection with a better one.

As regards the power, if the temperature rises to control target temperature in 10 minutes, how would a higher powered heater work much better? It could only reduce that 10 minutes, shirley? The rest of the time it would be at the same controlled temperature, shirley?

If HM’s suggestion is not an STC1000, there is one suggestion for a thermostat.
 
Hi,

I'm in the process of building a new honey warming cabinet with greater capacity. My current one is fairly simple with greenhouse heater connected to mains and then a PC power supply running a fan controller with two fans for circulation.

What I would like to use in my new cabinet is a thermostat which also has power out for running the fans... I noticed the newer STC E1000 has an output for a light, as does the one newbeeneil uses, can this be used to power fans instead of a light? has anyone done that? The key thing is I only want one mains plug rather than the 2.

Any help gratefully accepted!
 
IN the past I had a chest freezer that took 8 x 30 lb buckets.

Heat source was two bulbs. The controller was a thermostat ex immersion tank.

Worked very well for over 10 years. Took three days to liquify that amount of honey but that was planned and allowed for.

Now I have a small chest freezer with the proverbial Stc1000 and an oil tube heater. Again workes a treat. Takes a 30lb bucket.

PH
 
I use a STC1000 and heater tubes, but next I build one I would use a plug in version instead. Much safer for the amateur and more convenient. I saw the idea on this forum a while back, just can't find it now.
Something like this...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inkbird-ITC-306UK-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B018K2DKYW/ref=pd_sbs_201_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018K2DKYW&pd_rd_r=d5c40ebc-286e-11e9-8d9f-1198ada0eba1&pd_rd_w=3Ies2&pd_rd_wg=Ra0ba&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=KGHP3FX60BGBY4FC3EFC&psc=1&refRID=KGHP3FX60BGBY4FC3EFC
 
I use a STC1000 and heater tubes, but next I build one I would use a plug in version instead. Much safer for the amateur and more convenient. I saw the idea on this forum a while back, just can't find it now.
Something like this...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inkbird-ITC-306UK-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B018K2DKYW/ref=pd_sbs_201_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018K2DKYW&pd_rd_r=d5c40ebc-286e-11e9-8d9f-1198ada0eba1&pd_rd_w=3Ies2&pd_rd_wg=Ra0ba&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=KGHP3FX60BGBY4FC3EFC&psc=1&refRID=KGHP3FX60BGBY4FC3EFC

Yes I saw one of them but i'm not keen to use that one as it doesnt incorporate into the cabinet.... the perfect design would have something like the STC E1000 with two blug sockets like the ink. I'm just keen to see if it would be possible to use the light output on it for running a couple of fans.
 
I use a STC1000 and heater tubes, but next I build one I would use a plug in version instead. Much safer for the amateur and more convenient. I saw the idea on this forum a while back, just can't find it now.
Something like this...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inkbird-ITC-306UK-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B018K2DKYW/ref=pd_sbs_201_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018K2DKYW&pd_rd_r=d5c40ebc-286e-11e9-8d9f-1198ada0eba1&pd_rd_w=3Ies2&pd_rd_wg=Ra0ba&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=KGHP3FX60BGBY4FC3EFC&psc=1&refRID=KGHP3FX60BGBY4FC3EFC

This is one I've been using for a couple of years without trouble.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC110-24...or-Pou-/183597350829?var=&hash=item2abf413fad
 
Those of you who use the STC1000 and a fridge do you use it for cooling as well as heating?
 
I use a STC1000 and heater tubes, but next I build one I would use a plug in version instead. Much safer for the amateur and more convenient. I saw the idea on this forum a while back, just can't find it now.
Something like this...


I think I was guilty of the original post and was 'wittered' at as cheaper versions were available. The whole reason for my post was for members who were electrically challenged.

I currently have 2 of them associated with our borehole to keep filters warm (tubular heater) and control trace heating cable on the pipe between a tank and the pump. NO problem, "Plug and Play".
 
Those of you who use the STC1000 and a fridge do you use it for cooling as well as heating?

No ... the fridge you use should be a decommissioned on ... no point in using it for cooling anything.

I have an old fridge freezer - one with a small top compartment that was the freezer, The bottom part comfortably takes a 30lb tub. The top part will take 20 or more filled jars - I just swap the tube heater over and I have an STC1000 in both compartments.

I can also use the top compartment for drying/dessicating by turning the temp up a bit and opening vents I have on the top and bottom (fresh air in at the bottom, moist air from the drying process out at the top. Natural convection. Does a great job of dessicating bananas, tomato slices, apple slices, you name it .. only thing I've found difficult is making my own Biltong - but I've not given up yet.
 
No ... the fridge you use should be a decommissioned on ... no point in using it for cooling anything.
Ok, I always assumed that people used the STC1000 for cooling set honey after seeding.
My warming box is much simpler, made from some 2" PU sheet, a 120w tube heater, a computer fan for circulating the warmed air and a XH-W3001 controller. The 40" x 18" x 14" box warms 3 x 30lb buckets within about 12 hours.
 
No ... the fridge you use should be a decommissioned on ... no point in using it for cooling anything.

I have an old fridge freezer - one with a small top compartment that was the freezer, The bottom part comfortably takes a 30lb tub. The top part will take 20 or more filled jars - I just swap the tube heater over and I have an STC1000 in both compartments.

I can also use the top compartment for drying/dessicating by turning the temp up a bit and opening vents I have on the top and bottom (fresh air in at the bottom, moist air from the drying process out at the top. Natural convection. Does a great job of dessicating bananas, tomato slices, apple slices, you name it .. only thing I've found difficult is making my own Biltong - but I've not given up yet.

I only use my ‘heated’ fridge as a fermentation control for cider/wines during the warmer months, so it is energised as a fridge at times. The correct version of the STC1000 controllers works perfectly to maintain 18 degrees, or close to, for the fermentation period. It could be used for lagering as well (but I don’t make many beers) or liquefying honey if I so wished.

As I see it, the post has been useful for the OP as perhaps now he realises that it matters not whether the heater was a few hundred Watts or 10kW, the time to liquify the honey would be unchanged as long as the thermostatted temperature is maintained. An over-sized heater would only cycle the controller more, in fact, and wear out the switching contacts that much more quickly.

A water bath is so much faster, to warm honey. Just look up the heat capacity of water versus air to perhaps understand the benefits of using a water bath.
 

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