Treating Wax moth and grub

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I stack mine, put an empty box on top and in it an upturned can. On this put a teaspoon of sulphur per couple of supers on top of a scrap of paper, light paper and put a lid over. Originally in a Hivemaker post.
Have you a reference for HM's post Will?

Edit, FOUND IT.
 
Last edited:
Have you a reference for HM's post Will?

Edit, FOUND IT.
I keep it bookmarked! For anyone else looking:

Yes thats the sulphur to use, either use in a fume box or small room,or make a stack of say six or seven box's of combs, with an empty brood box on top,then make a small mesh trivet,place a small piece of newspaper on this with a teaspoon of sulphur on,light edge of paper and the sulphur will burn with a small blue flame when it ignites,seal the top box and leave until next day,then store away in a moth proof place.
 
So in effect a sulphur fumigation from the top of a stack?
 
Yes I do something similar but from the bottom.Sulfur bombs
But it's the sulphur dioxide created by the sulphur burning that is the active substance and sulphur dioxide is heavier than air... hence it is best done from the top down. Do you re-treat every four weeks as recommended? It's why I prefer to use the nematodes which will continue to act for months... if not years .

In fact ... I've just looked at the product you have highlighted and it says remove foodstuffs .. I don't think it's the same .... you might want to rethink your stored frames treatment if that's what you are using !
 
and let's consider the fact that the sulphur will attack the galv on your runners and castellations as well as corrode the nails and wire in the frames. (same goes for acetic acid) even the pricey bespoke sulphur burner will look a bit ropey after a few rounds
 
But it's the sulphur dioxide created by the sulphur burning that is the active substance and sulphur dioxide is heavier than air... hence it is best done from the top down. Do you re-treat every four weeks as recommended? It's why I prefer to use the nematodes which will continue to act for months... if not years .

In fact ... I've just looked at the product you have highlighted and it says remove foodstuffs .. I don't think it's the same .... you might want to rethink your stored frames treatment if that's what you are using !
I only do it once usually end of feb/march time and then it will only be boxes I have concerns about.
The product in the link was an example of sulphur bombs.
 
Yes I do something similar but from the bottom.Sulfur bombs
From the COSHH sheet:

WARNINGS
Exclude all persons, animals and plants during treatment.
For indoor use only.
Ventilate treated areas thoroughly after treatment.
Do not contaminate foodstuffs, eating utensils or food contact surfaces.
Not for use on grain or in empty grain stores.
Cover all water storage tanks before application.
Hazardous to bees. Action should be taken to prevent foraging bees gaining access to treated nests

The ingredients don't look so clever either
 
I only do it once usually end of feb/march time and then it will only be boxes I have concerns about.
The product in the link was an example of sulphur bombs.
So these sulphur bombs .... nothing to do with beekeeping then ... perhaps should have made that clear ? It looks to all intents and purposes as though you were using them ....
 
Is that so?
I have a large tub but I must admit it has languished only partly used at the back of the cupboard.
Its fine as long as you store it in good conditions and the tub is sealed it lasts for years... its like the sell buy date on yoghurt - meaningless !

There to protect the manufacturer from idiots who put the stuff in a paper bag and leave it in the garden shed ! It may, like wine yeast, lose a little of its potency but all the bacilli are not going to drop dead at the 2 year point !
 
Last edited:
Its fine as long as you store it in good conditions and the tub is sealed it lasts for years... its like the sell buy date on yoghurt - meaningless !

There to protect the manufacturer from idiots who put the stuff in a paper bag and leave it in the garden shed ! It may, like wine yeast, lose a little of its potency but all the bacilli are not going to drop dead at the 2 year point !


hope you are right ... so far so good .... that said I am off to Spain soon in the van so might pop to "El Hombaseo" (other Spanish garden places may also work) and try and get some fresh stuff !
 

Latest posts

Back
Top