Q&A to module 1 2011

[oliver90owner]

coming to sneer because you don't see the point of it isn't discussion.

The question would be more at home in a 'pub type quiz' than a serious examination, was my thoughts.

You learn about different hive formats, not the other way round. Knowing a WBC has those particular atttributes is one thing, approaching it from that obscure route is plain daft. They need some sensible question compilers IMO (and you can read that just the way you want to - it is a little ambiguous).

 

[MuswellMetro]

Does anyone want me to continue with this or do you all agree with Oliver90owner's well known view that BBKA exam are pointless and the question often ambiguous

My reason for doing this was that some of you are taking the exams and up to 40% are failing Module exams that if approached right are quite easy to pass


why well i also need help with module 6,and wanted to start off s module bassed group and eventually discuss Module 6 because most years it appears that Module 6 is very difficult to even get a credit and distinctions are almost unknown

 

[alanf]

coming to sneer because you don't see the point of it isn't discussion.

The question would be more at home in a 'pub type quiz' than a serious examination, was my thoughts.

You learn about different hive formats, not the other way round. Knowing a WBC has those particular atttributes is one thing, approaching it from that obscure route is plain daft. They need some sensible question compilers IMO (and you can read that just the way you want to - it is a little ambiguous).

The question setting standard is not up to national public exam standard. Questions in exams such as GCSE go through fairly rigorous review processes to avoid ambiguity in interpretation or potential answers. Some still slip through, but they are mistakes on the examiners part. These exams do not have the resources of a GCSE but they are presenting them to thousands of candidates, charging for entrance and claiming that the qualification is as assured as any in the subject.

I do take the point that for many the object is to pass the exam however that exam is compiled, presumably that's why 'study notes' sell fairly well. However, there's no reason why general discussion should not point out weaknesses in the setting and marking as well as what the 'approved' answers are. Otherwise there's no pressure to improve the quality of the exam. It might be taken as sneering by some, but for the most part it's pointing out weak areas that should cause concern to any examining body. To dismiss criticism on the basis that "'it's one mark" misses the point, there is only ever one mark between a pass and a fail.

 

[Tom Bick]

Does anyone want me to continue with this or do you all agree with Oliver90owner's well known view that BBKA exam are pointless and the question often ambiguous

My reason for doing this was that some of you are taking the exams and up to 40% are failing Module exams that if approached right are quite easy to pass


why well i need help with module 6,and wanted to start off s module bassed group and eventually discuss Module 6 because most years it appears that Module 6 is very difficult to even get a credit and distinctions are unknown

Well for one I am finding the thread of interest so keep going.

They may be pointless or not it all depends on your perspective.

As we all know beekeeping is not an exact science and many variables exist so how exams can be structured around the subject is a difficult one.

Threads like this can help people who may be considering in taking the exams but are put off thinking they will be to difficult and as I have to now been surprised on the questions to date.

 

[oliver90owner]

Look at it this way . If the person who actually has, and is using, a bottom bee space National format hive in poly answers the question differently than the syllabus, they will gain no credit. That must be wrong. That is why there should be carefully worded questions which cannot be affected by the real world out there. Unfortunately that lot seem to be living in their own little apiary and assume there is nothing different in use outside their particular syllabus.

By all means continue. It is interesting to see how poorly some of the questions have been compiled and how some answers are simply memorised data, with little or no opportunity for 'reasoning' the answers, and some with very little benefit to the real beekeeper.

RAB

 

[alanf]

Does anyone want me to continue with this or do you all agree with Oliver90owner's well known view that BBKA exam are pointless and the question often ambiguous

Please don't take any criticism of the exam as being against what you are trying to do. While the current exams are short of perfect, most of us do think that organising study is worthwhile and that means syllabus and assessment in some format.

There is the short/medium term aim of getting through exams which means at least familiarity with what the questions are expecting in addition to the knowledge itself. There are a few round my way with English not as their first language, familiarity with the question phrasing and what is assumed knowledge of historic UK beekeeping and measurements in particular is always going to make exams harder to pass for some. There is the longer term aim of improving the exam. Fact is, any pressure from here is likely to be indirect but the discussion of what the exam process could or should be all helps the arguments for improvement.

One of the worrying aspects is the way that talks and seminars on the exam content and marking are being given by the examiners. Anyone recall the recent scandal in the news about GCSE level exams? http://www.telegraph.co.uk/education/educationnews/9158226/Exam-seminars-could-be-scrapped.html The principle has to be that information about the procees is available to all candidates on an equitable basis, written guidence rather than what happens to have been asked or said at a particular session.

 

[The Cumbrian]

Does anyone want me to continue with this

I have no intention of taking the exams but yes please I would like the thread to continue. I am finding it interesting seeing the questions and the views on the correct answer.

I am sure those who are taking or intending to take the exam will find it valuable.

 

[MuswellMetro]

. Fact is, any pressure from here is likely to be indirect but the discussion of what the exam process could or should be all helps the arguments for improvement.

Questions need to be taken in context of the syllabus, and i would have answered the same physics question totally differently at GCSE, A level, Degree and Msci

The syllabus on module one is quite open in part but then restrictive in others...A broad statement "the types of hives and frames used by beekeepers in the united Kingdon....well i know a polish beekeeper in our BKA that has a hive with frames bigger than 14x12 that slide into the side of his hive....is that a type of hive used by beekpeers in UK, well he is in the UK and he is a beekeeper

likewise langstroth frame size....which version, there must be at least 20 different country specific standard measurements, does a french langstroth frame fit in a New Zealand langstroth...minefield getting a syllabus right...the same with poly Nationals, some like RAB implied had external dimension of 460x460 and therefore due to the thickness of wall only take 10 frames, others Poly national hive have the standard 11frame internal dimension of 372x422 and therfore due wall thickness are larger than 460x460....minefield

but i am working with what we have got and how I THINK it needs to be answered, and i assume that is a mainstream answer ..Q2 could equally be answeredas a Standard modified BS National deep brood hive fitted with a Hamilton convertor for short lug 16x10 frames....but i bet it would not get you a point or would it better to stick to mainstream answers

now you would not want me to run out of 35.56cm by 30.48cm frames so will post after i have made some more up

 

[DanBee]

Questions in exams such as GCSE go through fairly rigorous review processes to avoid ambiguity in interpretation or potential answers.

Oh please! Let's not hold up GCSE's as a shining example of standards, eh? I sat the last year of O Levels and the first year of GCSEs; there was a clear one grade inflation in the GCSE marking, and every year since then students' average grades have been getting better and better

I would also beware of falling for RAB's trolling on the subject: as Nellie mentioned, every time the subject of exams comes up, RAB jumps in to pick fault with the wording of a 1 mark question, seeing this as symptomatic of a failure in the whole system. He appears to be against exams himself on principle, and therefore against others taking them.

Thinking about it, how does this help anyone to keep bees. 'Rote' learning went out years ago!

See what I mean?

Does anyone want me to continue with this or do you all agree with Oliver90owner's well known view that BBKA exam are pointless and the question often ambiguous

My reason for doing this was that some of you are taking the exams and up to 40% are failing Module exams that if approached right are quite easy to pass

Please continue, the many silent readers of this thread would most likely thank you

 

[Hebeegeebee]

Oh please! Let's not hold up GCSE's as a shining example of standards, eh? I sat the last year of O Levels and the first year of GCSEs; there was a clear one grade inflation in the GCSE marking, and every year since then students' average grades have been getting better and better

I would also beware of falling for RAB's trolling on the subject: as Nellie mentioned, every time the subject of exams comes up, RAB jumps in to pick fault with the wording of a 1 mark question, seeing this as symptomatic of a failure in the whole system. He appears to be against exams himself on principle, and therefore against others taking them.

See what I mean?

Please continue, the many silent readers of this thread would most likely thank you

I agree with Dan
MM's attempt to help is being destroyed by unnecessary nit-picking. God knows how the thread will descend when more difficult questions are raised!


With regard to grade inflation in GCSE's one 16 year old I know has just passed Maths with a grade C. It was the sort of work I was doing when I was 12-13 without the geometry, log tables, sines and cosines and all the difficult stuff. Kids get almost no homework, it's not always marked when it's handed in, have no text books and are told to google for answers, (And this is the BEST school on the area) then are rewarded with a grade that they consider a fair grade for sod all work so expect that's all they have to do in life and we wonder why the country has no work ethic and employers perfer Polish employees because they ACTUALLY WORK HARD.


Rant over. Sorry MM. Back to you.

 

[alanf]

Mentioning GCSE as a public exam was purely an example of how much consideration goes into the question setting. Same with any exam which makes itself open to pulic scrutiny; driving test theory for instance, which has it's own problems. Political pressure to manipulate pass rates is hardly a factor here. Apologies if it caused a distraction.

Back to the questions we have. Taking these as one mark per question, no room for half or part - that is the case isn't it? MM is absolutely right. Best exam technique is to secure the point and move on. Read the question with care, then simplest answer that gets a point. If there's any doubt it's usually which of a group of answers is most likely to be on the approved list - WBC yes, some variants of poly national unlikely, anything with adaptations almost certainly not.

Beespace is a tricky one, Langstroth and any older text will quote inches, modern texts and suppliers will list mm. 6 to 8? 6 to 9? Risk quoting a range that strays outside a predefined spec and lose the mark? And as discusssed; at various points in the hive it varies or that's what taking a ruler to a mainstream manufacturers hive indicates.

Q10, several texts refer to 'thick' syrup. Is that acceptable? Ratio or the amount of sugar might be more specific terms than 'strength.

 

[MuswellMetro]

Ok this is were the subjective views start, on the next question write Notes in bullet point style, draw items that are easier to draw than desribe, give the examiner chance to see you know and give you a mark eg melt wax in water bath rather than an essay style reply…info down as quickly as you can...YOU will run out of time if yuo know all the answers and are a slow writer, leave a few line space so you further thought, hindsight….HINT: Main examiner of module one is thought to be Margaret Thomas and she was a student of the late Ted Hooper…. Read his books

EXAM NOTE Section B four Question from five 15 marks each Question) Q11 to Q15...i suspect a) takes more than 50% of the fifteen marks)



Question 11-2011

15 points #

a) Starting with a block of clean bees wax, how should a sheet of unwired foundation be produced
b) Outline a SIMPLE method of wireing the sheet of foundation that has been produced


Overview part a)

Three basic methods Rolling, Pressing and Casting, ,you need only describe one method ,common to all is melting the wax

 Heat the wax in a pan in a water bath or double boiler or bain marie (sketch a double boiler)
 Wax melt at 62 to 64 °C or144 to 147 °F or 64°C or 147°F ( ~ wax melting point depends on composition of Beeswax and other variables ,if you use Celsius or Fahrenheit keep it constant in the answer)
 Do not boil Fire risk so be careful
 Do not heat above to high as discolours above 85 °C (185 °F)
 Non metalic ladle and if possible wax holder while heating (discolours)


One of the following methods

CAST WAX Method

 Silicon moulds can be purchase or can be made using silicon mould rubber from a large sheet of Foundation
 Mouldare larger than finished sheet as edges /areas may be imperfectly cast
 Two sides. Top and bottom with slight wax retaining rim
 Caste wax foundation if thicker than rolled
 Release agent of rain water with a little Fairy liquid
 Wet mould with realease agent
 Pour melted wax in bottom mould and place top mould on
 Allow to cool I -3 minutes (or as require)
 Remove wax while warm
 Place on flat surface between newspapers

 First sheet may be poor due to temeperature of silicon , not wettted by release agent, so discard and remelt

Also see cutting to size


HERRING (trade Mark) or PRESSING or ROLLING (small scale) Method

 Use a casting board to Cast flat sheets of wax in a to require thickness (draw one…flat board edged with rim and break in rim to drain off excess
 Release agent of rain water with a little Fairy liquid
 Wet mould with release agent
 Pour melted wax in pour off excess wax and re use
 Allow to cover
 Remove wax sheets while warm
 Allow to cool for 1 minute of as required
 Place on flat surface between newspapers
 First sheet may be poor due to temperature of board , not wetted by release agent, so discard and remelt
 Mould in two half embossed with foundation marks embossed on inside
 Take warm plain wax sheets and place in mould
 Mould is then closed
 If heavy type mould also sometimes called concrete foundation mould then the weight of the top mould presses the wax into the embossing
 Thin aluminum moulds or silicon mould are require to be rolled through a mangle or weighted down
 Allow to cool for 1 to 3 minute of as required
 Remove foundation sheet and place flat between sheets of newspaper

CUTTING for all off the above

 Make a template for your size of frame
 Place foundation wax sheet on cutting board
 Place so the foundation Hex impression are the right way up ( drawing of hex right way up, noted top at top of hex)
 Cut template around using a craft knife or pastry clutter
 Store flat between sheets of newspaper until cool

Other ROLLING

ok well i was going to add this but do i know about the use of cold or hot rolled wax sheet...no, so use one of the above methods, DONT desrcibe complicated methods you know little about KISS if you have done it, then you can describe it, i cannot


Question 11-2011 (PART b to follow)

 

[Red Bee]

I'm interested MM so keep going.

 

[MuswellMetro]

Q11-2011 6 out of the 15 marks
Part b)

Two basic methods 1) wire the frame and unwiresd wax sheet or 2) wire the wax and add to standard frames with wedges


Wired frame

a) Ensure that the frame bars are drilled for eylets/gromits

b) If not drill
 2 holes space evenly along the bar for supers
 3 holes space evenly along the bar for brood
 4 holes space evenly along the bar for 14x12 or 16x10

then

1. construct and nail frame (draw picture of frame and 8 nail point)
2. add eyelet /gromits into wire holes
3. half knock in a nail by top hole so as to hold the wire
4. secure frame wire to nail
5. thread wire through eyelet/gromit to other side bar and along outer side then through eyelet/gromit
6. strain the wire
7. wire accross back to original frame through eyelet
8. strain wire and repteat until all holes used
9. fix after a final wire strain on the original nail if super of 14x12/16x14 but brood will need nail on other side
10. secure tightly by hammering home the nail NB use must use eyelets or loose marks (draw a frame with wires across etc)

Wax embedig

1. Ensure the wax fits, if not trim to size
2. Place wax in frame up
3. Embed the wire using either

a) an embedding spur wheel pressing the wax into the wire (draw a spur wheel

or

b) heating the wire using a car battery
Hooper says 6volt is better as 12v melts the wax to fast so say six volt
(draw a battery with + and – and 6volt with the wire going to the frame you drew above)


alternative method

make Wired Wax for standard frame for wired foundations

1. Use a template with nails to form the wire pattern of normal wax foundation, 3 at top, two at bottom
2. Wire the template ( draw a plan label nails and wire and position of wax)
3. Add the wax sheet
4. Embed the wax by one of the methods above

5. Fit to a standard frame for wired foundation as below

 Remove and clean wedge
 Make uip frame minus one bottom bar
 Slide in foundation
 Secure foundation with wedge
 Fit aand nail bottom bar
 (draw a frame with it nine nail point….) if you don’t know how to nail a frame, why are you taking the exam)

 

[The Cumbrian]

 Wax melt at 62 to 64 °C or144 to 147 °F or 64°C or 147°F ( ~ wax melting point depends on composition of Beeswax and other variables ,if you use Celsius or Fahrenheit keep it constant in the answer)

I am also finding this interesting MM so please keep going. I am interested however in the temperatures I am assuming the BBKA do not specify that SI units have to be used.

 

[DanBee]

I am assuming the BBKA do not specify that SI units have to be used.

I believe imperial or metric are acceptable, as long as you're consistent. For instance, the safest answer to the beespace question is 5/16"; it is the middle of the range of measurements but it's an easy one to remember

 

[DanBee]

HINT: Main examiner of module one is thought to be Margaret Thomas and she was a student of the late Ted Hooper…. Read his books

I wouldn't disagree with that being a very good idea for module 1, but more due to the quality of the information therein, not any bias or association at the examiner/moderator level Margaret is the moderator for the exam board, and you are correct that she knew Ted Hooper very well as he was the County Bee Lecturer for Essex when she started beekeeping.

Remember the advice to write your candidate number at the top of every sheet, and not to write too close to the edges of the paper? My understanding is that each student's script is photocopied and marked by two examiners against the published marking scheme for that paper; the combined marked scripts then are sent to the moderator, who compares them and determines the score and result for each student.

The exam-setter for each module varies from year to year, and they are generally one of the markers for their own paper. I know posters here who have had the pleasure

 

[MuswellMetro]

I believe imperial or metric are acceptable, as long as you're consistent. For instance, the safest answer to the beespace question is 5/16"; it is the middle of the range of measurements but it's an easy one to remember

thanks Danbee..it little things like that which make it easier,

so now onto the next question, agai these are my veiws, i may be wrong...any commnets/changes welcome

Q12-2011 15 marks

Explain brielfy:1

a)How to set up a queenright five frame National Nucleus hive (9 marks)
b)How this nucleus should be developed into a productive colony (6 masrks)

varius variation on this, so not sticking to my veiws of the question but I use 14x12, as that is not what the question wants, others plesase feel free to comment

• start only from a strong National Hive(s)
  
• add one frame of foundation
  
• then either
• place a new queen in her cage on a mixed frame of Brood, relese the cage tab after 3days
• or
• take the Hive queen on a mixed frame of brood
• then place that frame in a 5 frame nuc box
• add two frames off mixed brood
• add one frame of capped stores
  
  if moving Nucleus from apiary
  
  
• shake in two frames of bees
• close up and move 3 miles or moreto
  
  if not moving away
  
• light shake the flyer of f4 frames of brood then shake the remaining nurse bees on those framews into the Nucleus
• close up and move a minumum of 3ft and different hive orientation or preferable as far away as posible in the apairy to prevent drifting bees to stronger hive
  
• if use bees from more that one hive a minimum of three hive must contribute bees to the nuc
  
• don’t feed for 48hours to prevent robbing by flyers
  
  
  
  b) How this hive should be devloped into a productive hive
  
  
• the nuclueus should be moved onto the location of the new hive ( remebering the 3ft/3mile rule)
• feed the Nucleus as nescessary if forage is low
• inspect hive for suffient brood area for the queen to lay, so don’t over feed (honey block)
• place a new hive on the site
• add one frame of foundation
• place the Nucleuas frame in the same order into the hive
• add one frame of drawn comb or if not avaialble a frame of oundation
• add the dummy board
• add a further 5 frames of foundation
• considerer feeding depending on forage conditions
  
• inspect regulary and expand the occupier area by moving the dummy board placing one frames in the occupied area
• manipulation of brood area by moving drawn comb into the brood area but be careful not to split the main brood
• when all foundation and the bees are on nine or ten frames add a super of drawn clean comb from a disease free source or foundation if comb is not available

 

[MuswellMetro]

Question 13-2011

in late summer a bee-keeper has a strong colony. the supers have been removed
How should this colony be managed 15 Marks

Feeding you could consider different methods such as leaving full honey supers on top, under neath or leaving them only to collect or feeeding honey back or let them foage

my veiw of it is that it is the text book mainstreme conservative approach they want in their reply for the exam and not necessaerly what you yourself, me or others do

Feeding
i

1. inspect and heft the hive to determine the amount of capped store in the brood box
2. A national will need 16kg-18kg (35-40lb) of capped stores to over winter
3. feed 2:1 syrup being 2kg of WHITE sugar to 1ltre of water or 2lb sugar to 1 pint of water (either are acceptable[/I or a commercial prepare invert winter syrup such as ambrosia syrup, apiinvert syrup etc)
   [*]feed late in evening to stop robbing and on the basis that 1kg deficienty in store is equal to 800g of sugar (1lb store to 13oz approx sugar)
   [*]5lb of store per brod frame 7lb per 14x12/16x10
   [*]rapidfeeding in volume so they store in a Miller or ashworth or 2ltr donut feeder or english feeder or brother adam feeder...your choice
   [*]heft to determine store level as necessary
   

medication

1. check varroa drop before medication and treat accordingly
2. moniter during treatement if treatment necessary
3. then if varroa drop high apply FERA approved medicant Apistan, Bayvarol ( if varroa are not reistant,apilifevar, Apiguard, Amiitraz (as Apivar prescibe by Vet under Cat 2) or other DEFRA authorised varroacide
   
4. write medication applied on your Veterinary Medicine lDirectorates VMA form with batch numbers and date administered ( you do this dont you, well say you do in exam see attachment
   
5. monitor for varroa during winter and consider a winter varroa treatmentor hive cleaner such as Oxalic Acid dribble if drop id high
6. check for other diseases

[NOTEc you may use thymol crystal in cooken , poweder sugar ,hive cleen but it in not authorised by FERA so SAY in the exam use an authorise product you might get away with Oxalic acid or latic acid becasue it is a long standing treatment and FERA give a mix recommendation AT PRESENT BUT THAT MAY CHANGE

• Deformed wing virus
• Foul Brood. look for AFB as EFB is less common in winter
  
• Acrarine, less common now thymol base varroacides used

1. reduce entrancece for wasp and robbing
2. Mouse guard on first frosts remove in spring biuld up
3. Green woodpecker protection (25mm wire mesh Cage 250mm from hive OR WHAT YOU USE SUCH AS DAMPROOF MEMBRANE
   [*] adequate ventilation
4. Check for nosema, 50 bees collected as flyers and examined by under 400x microscope
   

if positive as ~Fumidil B is no longer licenced for treatment consider a winter tonic like vita feed gold or Nosevit with a shook swarm or baily change onto new comb in spring dont say it is a treatment, we know HIVEMAKER thymol syrup works but it is un approved so don't mention it, this is an exam not notes of your current practice
Physical damage


protect from:-

1. cows/Horses/(sheep as well in my apiary)
2. Badger ( move if necessary)
3. vandals
4. wind
5. frost hollows
6. River flooding ( move to higher ground)
7. keep grass cut around hive to improve airflow

self-sufficient in stores

1. heft to ascertain sufficient stores
2. feed fondant if light
3. March can be particulare difficult with starvation as laying increases

 

[MuswellMetro]

Q14-2011
Write short notes on the following pieces of equipement, In yor notes mention any variation in design and the benefits of these varients
a)queen excluder
b)Castellated Spacers
c)Contact feeders

5 marks each section

intial looked as this one was it is easy but then realsised what do you say!!!

a) Queen excluder

• Used between super and brood box to stop queen going into honey supers
• Used to confine a swarm queen in a hive
• Used to in queen banking to exclude resient queen for queen banking area

Wire excluder,

• Long slot, good access through by workers
• Bee space one side
• Normally framed
• Can be used top or bottom beespace
• Wire can get bent but can be striaghtened
• Clean with wire brush or special scrapper
• Expensives
• Some variants unframed but supers do not fit well on them

Zinc Metal

1. Stamped slots
2. Sharp edges can damage wings
3. Bends ansd creases easily
4. No beespace either side
5. As no beespace can get propolised to frames
6. Bottom bees space only as sags into top beepsace
7. Some variants framed
8. Scrap clean and blow torch

Plastic

1. Moulded holes
2. Floppy
3. Cheepest
4. Sags on top beespace so bottom bee space only
5. Cracks with cold fatigue, sun UV degrading and age
6. Scrap clean but easily cracked or damaged as brittle
7. Recent type have been toosmall to let large bees through

Castellations

1. Come in various setting ,9 ,10 and 11
2. Use only in supers
3. Not for brood boxes as frames cannot be slid along
4. 11 for drawing foundation
5. 9 & 10 for already drawn comb
6. careful when used as can cut hands and gloves
7. 10 for cut comb
8. cannot change use of a super easily as castellation fixed and have to be replaced to CHANGE USE

contact Feeders

1. Slow feed
2. Simple 1lb honey jar with nail pierced honey jar lid
3. Large 4 pint jars withb mesh feed contact hole
4. Plastic screw lids with mesh feed contact hole for jars of 58mm screw neck
   
5. Fill to brim and put on lid
6. Invert quickly to create vacumm above syrup
7. Can flood if wrongly used
8. If not full when inverting large amount of liquid can escape until vacumm forms ( can cause robbing in the apiary if spilt but should over bucket not be done over feed hole as can swamp beess)
9. Larger jerry can or bucket type with special lids
10. Require an eke and feed hole in crown board