OK, now the swarm QUESTION, is in in all module one papers since 2004 in various forms, you must learn swarm control
MY VEIW IS LEARN and PRATICE a Pagden, just as OLIVER90OWNER says in a recent thread do a pagden, I totally agree with him, I have difficult site I need to demaree BUT if I could I would do a pagden, so learn it, draw it, write it, don’t be flash just because you read about a demaree or was bought a snelgrove board…learn the Pagden artificial swarm method…and because there are variants use the mainstream method, the BBKA news has an article in the march addition….it is not a pagden as they say it is , it is a variant called a heddon and involves a queen capture and 90 degree sideways turn of foundation only Q- hive…I have just had to recover a 2nd year from trying to follow the BBKA advice, I despare at the editorial control of that magazine in recent months…so learn a proper PAGDEN ARTIFICIAL SWARM AND CATCHING A SWARM or don’t take the exam…..so 30 Marks certainty…halfway there then aren’t you
Q17-2011 30 Marks
During a regular inspection in May, a colony is found to be producing queen cells
(a) other than by removal of all queens cells describe the steps to be taken to maximise honey production and to prevent the possible loss of a swarm (15 Marks)
(b) If these steps fail and a swarm issues landing on a stout branch at head height nearby, describe how the swarm should be collected and hived (10 Marks)
(c) Explain how to care for this swarm for the following month
Ok semi essay form apologies for syntax and grammar
Q17 (a)
In order to stop a swarm erupting it is necessary to do an artificial swarm either sideways ( pagden or Vertical ( Demaree or snelgrove) implying you know more than just a pagden
The first thing on finding a swarm queen cells is to obtain the necessary equipment ASAP that day is preferable, not on ordering by letter to a supplier
One of the standard Artificial swarm methods is the pagden AS {consider a diagram as well as narrative]
The hive is inspected for queen cells and their location is marked by drawing pin or chalk ( I always have chalk in my pocket, Can never find a draw pin) One ( or perhaps two LOL) charged queen cells are selected and placed in a nuc for safety with nurse bees on their frame of brood ( careful not to select Qcells near drone brood or drone Queen could be made).
The brood box is moved to is moved to a new site at least 3ft to the side and from the old hive.
A new brood box plus frames of new foundation in place on the old site. All other Queen cells are destroyed. The queen is then found and removed on a brood frame and placed in the new box, QE excluder added and then the supers are then placed I€on the new box and the hive closed up ( the queen cells from the new are added to the old hive and again this is closed up
After seven days the old hive is move to the other side of the new box to balance the hives and the new flyer from the old hive drift to the new hive , increasing the work force to improve honey production and reducing the erge of the old queen cell hive to support more that one Queen cell
A second balance can be done at day 14 by changing back to the other side
An alternative (if you have time to add this)A demaree is simlar except the resultant hives are all on the old stand ( snelgrove is a variant of the demaree with an opening upper board that stops drone being trapped in the uppex box and becoming a nuscence and create an angry hive
Draw a demaree labelled diagram
The hives are recombine as required after the pagden queen from the queen cell has started laying. The combine is by the newspaper method by removing the old queen and placing newspaper with queen excluder between the two brood boxes with the new queen on top, once united the new queen and brood are re ordered in the new hive and the old box removed, Supers can be added again with queen excluder and newspaper between
The demaree will produce queen cells if not removed and is supposed to induce supercedure rather than swarming ( various methods with and without Queen excluders add what you wish if time)
b) The normal method is to use a skep or box for a small swarm is my preferred method but for a large prime swarm a larger contained is needed (if you see my swarm photos I use a 6 frames with or without a removable floor, it as large as a national brood almost)
Once the swarm is located a sheet is placed under the hive. Access to the swarm must be safe and if it is accessible a single shake should shake it into the skep. This is then placed on the bottom up on the sheet with a stone under one edge, if you have the queen the bees that fell on the sheet will walk in and collect and cluster in the up turned skip, higher swarms can be difficult and may require with the tree owners permission a branch to be cut with long cutters or a skep on a pole with a frame of brood place in it
The swarm can then be left ( supervised in a public place) until all the reain bees are in the skep. The skep can then be knocked into swarm box or Nuc for transportation to a new hive on new foundation. A space in the foundation is mafde by removing three frames , the frames once the bees are in are gently lower into place as the bees circulate around the hive
The swarm can be fed syrup after 24 hours but a ferral or swarm from unknown source is oftern left for a further 48hours before feeding. The bees should be fed heavy syrup and at least 10 days must be left before inspection for brood and eggs as the queen should be allowed to settle. The swarm can be recombined to its original hive once that hive has made a new queen and she has mated and is laying . This is at least 21 days from a charged cells and can be due to bad weather extended to up to five weeks vbefore a good laying pattern develops
A swarm is also a break in brood and is a good time to treat for varroa though they can abscond so a QE may be of use under the box during treatment. An alternative is to destroy the first
capped brood frame as this has a lot of the varroa in the brood cells
ok finished, over to you lot
