BBKA Module 1 Question

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Luka22

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Hi All,

I am thinking of doing the Module 1 at some point. I have looked at some past Exam Paper and Study Notes. Section C of these Papers seems to be the most difficult section and they advice about 50min for that part. I now wonder, are there any recourses out there were I could actually see some example what sort of answers they expect?

I know you can download past papers from the BBKA Website for £1 each, but I guess they come without answers or do they?

Some of the Notes I read made me wonder if it will be too difficult anyway, but I would like to judge when I actually see what the BBKA would expect. And yes I am aware it would be more then 2 sentences...

Maybe somebody knows some resources I could look at with an example of answers?
 
100 marks in 90 minutes.

work out how much time for 30 marks.

The first ten should be really easy and quick.

The next 4 bullet points.
the last question in essay form.

there are facebook groups.
Practice writing by hand. It needs to be legible and quick.

Use the past papers as revision help and do at least one as a timed exam.
 
you just have to substitute b b k a . o r g. uk (without spaces) for the dashes

Okay, I was able to open the page. Is there a site where I can see the tests without paying? Just interested in what questions are asked. Over here, our "Master Beekeeper" tests are very shallow, and more like your basic assessment. Would love to change that.
 
Okay, I was able to open the page. Is there a site where I can see the tests without paying? Just interested in what questions are asked. Over here, our "Master Beekeeper" tests are very shallow, and more like your basic assessment. Would love to change that.

PM me with your email address and I can send you a selection of past module papers.
 
Hi all,

Thanks for the feedback. Okay so section B should be bullet points, thats a good hint. I will also have a look at the Facebook groups you mentioned and see what additional information I can find. A lot to lear for sure, before I can do it...
 
Couple of example questions from a module 1 paper.

Explain how to:
(a) mark a queen;
(b) clip a queen.
(c) Why might each of these procedures be carried out? (d) What colour should the queen be marked in 2016
according to the lnternational Queen Marking Code?

On examination of a colony at the end of July, the queen cannot be found.
(a) What are the signs of queenlessness?
(b) How would this be determined?
(c) lf the situation of queenlessness is ignored, what are the most likely consequences before the colony dies out?
(d) How would these consequences be recognised?

A friend has decided that they would like to keep a couple of colonies of bees, (a) What should they do before getting bees?
(b) Give a breakdown of the equipment they will need in the first two years and the possible costs involved.
(c) Describe the Smith and the Modified Commercial hives, so that the beginner could choose between them, listing the similarities and difference between these two hives.
(d) What possible sources of information are available to beginner beekeepers
 
Do you have to mark and clip a drone in the practical exam


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Do you have to mark and clip a drone in the practical exam


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


General husbandry yes, basic assessment no.

The modules are all theory.
 
Do you have to mark and clip a drone in the practical exam


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

If it is against your principles to clip a bee then you don't have to. You can get away with just placing the scissors in the right position. Simply showing you have the ability to do so.

As already stated modules are only written exams not practical.
 
Couple of example questions from a module 1 paper.

Explain how to:
(a) mark a queen;
(b) clip a queen.
(c) Why might each of these procedures be carried out? (d) What colour should the queen be marked in 2016
according to the lnternational Queen Marking Code?

On examination of a colony at the end of July, the queen cannot be found.
(a) What are the signs of queenlessness?
(b) How would this be determined?
(c) lf the situation of queenlessness is ignored, what are the most likely consequences before the colony dies out?
(d) How would these consequences be recognised?

A friend has decided that they would like to keep a couple of colonies of bees, (a) What should they do before getting bees?
(b) Give a breakdown of the equipment they will need in the first two years and the possible costs involved.
(c) Describe the Smith and the Modified Commercial hives, so that the beginner could choose between them, listing the similarities and difference between these two hives.
(d) What possible sources of information are available to beginner beekeepers
Why might each of these procedures be carried out? (d) What colour should the queen be marked in 2016
according to the lnternational Queen Marking Code?
 
Why might each of these procedures be carried out? (d) What colour should the queen be marked in 2016
according to the lnternational Queen Marking Code?

The internationally recognised colour code for marking queens requies that you identify the year of birth/mating by marking the thorax of the queen with the following collours
White - years ending with a 1 or 6
Yellow - years ending with a 2 or 7
Red - years ending with a 3 or 8
Green - years ending with a 4 or 9
Blue - years ending with a 5 or 0

Most beekeepers use a phrase such as "Will You Raise Good Bees?" to remind them of the sequence.

So, in 2016, a queen would be marked white. In 2017, she would be marked yellow. In 2018, she would be marked Red, etc

You can google all this information, including how and why to do it.

You would mark the queen so that she could more easily be found in a colony comprising many thousands of workers and a few hundred drones. A queen might be clipped in order to de-stabilise her in flight. This is not a swarm control technique, as the bees would simply replace the mated queen with a virgin (large cast) although the queen would fall to the ground and they would be reluctant to leave her. The most sensible reason to clip a queen is to prevent her flying on a mating flight after instrumental insemination (although a queen excluder over the entrance is advised).
 
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And if you are colour blind then red and green are a huge help eh? This is precisely where theory and the practical part company.

Pah!

PH
 
Couple of example questions from a module 1 paper.

Explain how to:
(a) mark a queen;
(b) clip a queen.
(c) Why might each of these procedures be carried out? (d) What colour should the queen be marked in 2016
according to the lnternational Queen Marking Code?

On examination of a colony at the end of July, the queen cannot be found.
(a) What are the signs of queenlessness?
(b) How would this be determined?
(c) lf the situation of queenlessness is ignored, what are the most likely consequences before the colony dies out?
(d) How would these consequences be recognised?

A friend has decided that they would like to keep a couple of colonies of bees, (a) What should they do before getting bees?
(b) Give a breakdown of the equipment they will need in the first two years and the possible costs involved.
(c) Describe the Smith and the Modified Commercial hives, so that the beginner could choose between them, listing the similarities and difference between these two hives.
(d) What possible sources of information are available to beginner beekeepers

What relevance has the SMith hive got? (Outside Scotland)..
 

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