Poly Hive's?

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What i dont like are some holes that are punched into the hive, i will need to fill these. ...

Maybe intended as a way in for a hive tool? (Excellent photos BTW, thanks.)

What do you make of the 'snug' roof?
Is it sealed, vented, going to stay on without a strap or a rock on top ... or just a bit tight?
 
Here is what Mr Payne had to say about the holes:

Hi

Glad to hear the poly hives arrived safely. The holes that you have shown are produced during the moulding process, it is not a fault with the hive but something that our moulding needs while they are injected. They will not affect the hive performance in any way.


We hope you enjoy the hive, please keep us informed with feedback, good and bad (although good is always better). We designed our poly products around how we do beekeeping so we know they wont suit everyones way of doing it, however we will listen to comments and make changes were appropriate and possible


Im not to happy! TBH i see them as week points, for attack from wasps and the likes of.

The roof fit is snug and i like it, its a nice fit.
 
Being as they supply a strap, I'd use it just for peace of mind.

Winker,
First pic I wasn't that worried, it just looked like a circular depression but the last ones show that ithas effectively removed a section of the bevelled side wall. Shame about that because the dimensions you've quoted answered my only concern, ie thickness.
I went with the side runners, same as you, I could only see it being easier for inspections. I have big hands and struggle with most nucs but their poly nuc is difficult for removing frames (at least for this cack handed beek!)
Leaving them out should, as you say provide a top space option. Fine if you use the poly supers but not when mixing existing kit. (unless that's top space ofc)

About the roof:
Is it deeper and thicker than the one on the nuc? I find the nuc roof a bit loose so a snug fit would be welcome.

I'm really looking forward to my own delivery now. Thanks for the info guys!
 
Forgot. I think I agree with you, it will at very least offer a point of focus. What do you intend filling it with?
 
Being as they supply a strap, I'd use it just for peace of mind.

Winker,
First pic I wasn't that worried, it just looked like a circular depression but the last ones show that ithas effectively removed a section of the bevelled side wall. Shame about that because the dimensions you've quoted answered my only concern, ie thickness.
I went with the side runners, same as you, I could only see it being easier for inspections. I have big hands and struggle with most nucs but their poly nuc is difficult for removing frames (at least for this cack handed beek!)
Leaving them out should, as you say provide a top space option. Fine if you use the poly supers but not when mixing existing kit. (unless that's top space ofc)

About the roof:
Is it deeper and thicker than the one on the nuc? I find the nuc roof a bit loose so a snug fit would be welcome.

I'm really looking forward to my own delivery now. Thanks for the info guys!

So what's the consensus on the best poly brood box to mix with existing National wooden kit.
 
About the roof:
Is it deeper and thicker than the one on the nuc? I find the nuc roof a bit loose so a snug fit would be welcome.

Just to check how it felt lifting the boxes with weight in them i filled the feeder with water approx 15kg and i could actually lift it by the roof as well (once i'd got it on). It's that snug i'm sure it'll loosen off a little with time and the roof is 50mm deep at the edge i only make it 20mm thick in the middle.

And Winker I was measuring from the bottom where the hand holds are which is 26mm at best on the narrow side.
Smuffles
 
Are the metal runners included with the hive or are they extra?
 
At the moment the best one I am aware of is the Swienty model for use with National kit.

I have a Polish Langstroth and National on order to trial.

I am not going to order from MB as I do not at all like the lip they have "invented" or copied actually from Steele and Brodie, and the aforementioned S&B themselves would admit it was not their best ever idea.

I have handled a P***** nuc and was a bit underwhelmed by the feel of the poly, they may well claim the magic figure of 100gms/lit but it seemed a bit light weight to me.

I would love to be able to say that there is a wonderful British unit, but not yet it seems. Shame really.

PH



PH
 
Are the metal runners included with the hive or are they extra?

you even get the free metal runners with the supers :eek:

I wrote off a big letter to Roger Payne tonight. On closer inspection some of these holes break into the inner walls giving wasps a direct entry point into the hive. I am not too keen on filling these holes either! Why should i repair a brand new item?

If they are a necessary evil of the manufacturing process, then they should be on the bottom of the hive walls not the top. They have made the feeder that way, with the holes on the bottom, which does not affect the integrity of the hive.

I feel a return to sender coming on :cuss:
 
Here is what Mr Payne had to say about the holes:

Hi

Glad to hear the poly hives arrived safely. The holes that you have shown are produced during the moulding process, it is not a fault with the hive but something that our moulding needs while they are injected. They will not affect the hive performance in any way.
...


Im not to happy! TBH i see them as week points, for attack from wasps and the likes of.

Its more likely that they are where the moulding is pushed to eject it from the mould.
If so, its a major mould change to reposition or alter them.
But a bit more time in the moulding cycle before ejecting (to harden the plastic some more) might well make the impression less deep. Or maybe eject more slowly (so they don't push as hard.)
If its a widespread problem, and its brought to the attention of the moulding co, then I'd be hopeful that they could act to minimise it.
 
Looks as if the beads failed to melt properly.

PH

I have no personal knowledge but :
Spoke to an injection moulder and he said it sounds more like too much recycled plastic which wouldl leave the product light and unfused.
S
 
I would love to be able to say that there is a wonderful British unit, but not yet it seems. Shame really.

B hive Supplys, from down in Cornwall, version says developed, designed and tested in The UK. The only thing it doesn't seem to say is 'made' in the UK

A hundred and fifty quid gets a 14 x 12 with three supers, delivered. Bottom bee space, BS national internal dimensions. Appears fully compatible with timber parts. It may be the wonderful British unit that Poly Hive is looking for?

RAB
 
On closer inspection some of these holes break into the inner walls giving wasps a direct entry point into the hive.

Maybe another good starting point for the peckers as well,or the bees to do a little bit of enlarging.
 
itma - poly is made by INJECTION moulding.

moulds by definition have various "defects" to allow venting of air, flow of the poly etc. (think airfix model sprues).

just shame about the placement.


PH - agree that the WPF/Paynes poly isn't as hard as the MB stuff (easier to stick a fingernail into).
 
I will look at the Paynes info re repair, might even learn something.

OOps I looked and didn't. Quell suprise...

Glue. any decent PVA water proof glue is good, but I gave up on gluing them donkeys ago so save your hard earned dosh.

Paint. Murray will tell you to use gloss but I prefer emulsion as it is a softer hue in the countryside. Less visible.

Repair. Dowel, glue and cramp. Only time I use glue.

I do wonder why they dinna ask... after 20 odd years they may learn? This brain is pickable.. lol

KISS


PH
 
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They look very much like ejector pin marks to me - just going by the photos.

As one who was hoping to buy these things, I'm a bit disappointed.
 
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