I hate honey extracting! so any tips please.

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Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
52
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Location
buckinghamshire
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
7
It takes over the kitchen leaves a stick mess takes ages and generally is a pain. About 5 years ago I was told at the Devon County show that you could use a paint striper gun to remove the cappings - wow! who would have thought it? I have upgraded to a 9 frame electric extractor, but that 'walks' across the floor. I have a honey box to heat the honey before basic filtering. I have always struggled getting the honey off the bees, and never had any joy with bee escapes. So all tips greatly appreciated.
 
90A5E621-EACA-45A3-ABF1-5B922617FD4C.jpegRe your extractor.
make one of these. Mount it on casters and lock just one. Stops it travelling. Also make sure you try to balance the frames.
 

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I haven't time to write a reply at the moment but I will later on so watch this space
 
It takes over the kitchen leaves a stick mess takes ages and generally is a pain. About 5 years ago I was told at the Devon County show that you could use a paint striper gun to remove the cappings - wow! who would have thought it? I have upgraded to a 9 frame electric extractor, but that 'walks' across the floor. I have a honey box to heat the honey before basic filtering. I have always struggled getting the honey off the bees, and never had any joy with bee escapes. So all tips greatly appreciated.
I don't use bee escapes I open the hives smoke them down brush the rest off then transfer the frames to an empty super with a lid on the floor and a lid on the top. My mate lifts the lid and I put them in. An electric knife works a treat and what that doesn't get an uncapping fork gets. I use multiple honey filters so when it starts to slow down another goes on and the others get washed and used again. When it's all done it gets a final run through a clean filter. The buckets then get a layer of cling film on top of the honey. The cling film holds onto the crap that floats to the top
 
Clearer board using rhombus escape, they'll pretty much all be gone down by the next day.

I have double strainer on top of honey bucket straight out of extractor so it's filtered straight away. Not really bad issues with scum on the top.

I found more frames seemed to spin out with heat gun than manually uncapping but the former is much tidier and quicker.

I jar in the kitchen after it's settled, don't think wife would cope with extracting at home! Extractor has holes on the legs to be bolted down with although I haven't yet. Helps big time to ensure it's balanced though!
 
I screw the extractor stand onto a pallet which stops it wobbling and raises the extractor valve high enough to get a bucket under it so I don't keep having to lift the extractor when the honey reaches the frame lugs.
 
Wash all equipment and storage containers thoroughly before beginning.
keep a bowl of clean water and kitchen towels at hand
check water content before extraction
keep pets and humans out of your extraction area until you have finished
Use plastic sheets of polyethene trays to store your supers
 
I absolutely love extracting, for me its the best bit of bee keeping.

Ask me again in 5 years and I may feel different.

Afraid I cannot offer ant help pinching honey from hives as I too have had mixed results.

Regarding mess, I extract in my consevetory, before I start, I lay out old cardboard boxes on the floor. I keep a few spare bits of cardboard, so if I drop some honey, I can place more cardboard on top of the sticky patch.

Then I keep a bucket of water and towel handy for sticky fingers.

I keep things clean as I work so no big clear up at the end.
 
sorry, it was a busy day! Here goes with the way I do things! I use a roll of lino which I roll out across the floor. After use it can be taken outside and washed down easily. Remember that honey is soluble in water so have a bowl of warm water ready and an old towel that is used for this purpose only as it will get stained. get all your gear ready before you start doing anything. I put my extractor on castors as mentioned but I have raised it to a comfortable height that also allows me to fit a honey bucket underneath so you don't have to keep lifting to drain off the honey. The castors stop the 'walking'. I have also devised a tipping method to make the pouring easy. It is a big piece of wood that fits under one side and a belt to stop the extractor from tipping and falling! I extract the day I remove the boxes from the hive while the honey is still liquid. I have a tray to which I have attached a piece of wood with a screw sticking point upwards. I put one end of the top bar on the screw and hold the other end. That allows access to both sides without lifting or turning. Just a quick swivel and both sides are visible. I use a hot air gun. The best one I have found is a modelling hot air gun used by modellers to shrink plastic onto the body of model planes. It comes with a direction nozzle and has two heat settings. With the frame on the nail start at the top and keep the hot gun moving quickly. You will see all the dry cappings pop open. They can splatter so don't do it near a wall!!. Move in a downwards motion so you are chasing any melting wax. It takes a few seconds for each side. I keep an electric hot knife to one side for any cappings that have soaked in honey as they will not pop open. (It is important to transport frames carefully to try and avoid this). You will have hardly any honey run off or wax after a whole box of frames. Nothing at the end to melt down. Put the frames in the spinner and spin the honey off, emptying into a honey bucket as it fills towards the bottom of the frames in the spinner. I use a double sieve only. to clean up I simply scrape the sides of the spinner with a flexible silicon kitchen spatula and then wipe the bottom of the tap and take the whole thing into the shower where I use warm water and the shower hose to clean it. Take care not to lose the ball bearing down the plug hole. I leave the honey in the bucket for 24 hours and jar up immediately. Clean the bucket the same way.
There is an art to using the hot air gun but practise makes perfect. Just don't linger in one place too long!
Once finished role up the lino and take it outside for a hose down. Keep it for the next lot!
I like to extract in small amounts of two boxes at a time but that is a personal thing for me to get different honeys during the season. I also use a refractometer frequently throughout the extraction and when jarring up. Better safe than sorry.
Hope this helps
 
sorry, it was a busy day! Here goes with the way I do things! I use a roll of lino which I roll out across the floor. After use it can be taken outside and washed down easily. Remember that honey is soluble in water so have a bowl of warm water ready and an old towel that is used for this purpose only as it will get stained. get all your gear ready before you start doing anything. I put my extractor on castors as mentioned but I have raised it to a comfortable height that also allows me to fit a honey bucket underneath so you don't have to keep lifting to drain off the honey. The castors stop the 'walking'. I have also devised a tipping method to make the pouring easy. It is a big piece of wood that fits under one side and a belt to stop the extractor from tipping and falling! I extract the day I remove the boxes from the hive while the honey is still liquid. I have a tray to which I have attached a piece of wood with a screw sticking point upwards. I put one end of the top bar on the screw and hold the other end. That allows access to both sides without lifting or turning. Just a quick swivel and both sides are visible. I use a hot air gun. The best one I have found is a modelling hot air gun used by modellers to shrink plastic onto the body of model planes. It comes with a direction nozzle and has two heat settings. With the frame on the nail start at the top and keep the hot gun moving quickly. You will see all the dry cappings pop open. They can splatter so don't do it near a wall!!. Move in a downwards motion so you are chasing any melting wax. It takes a few seconds for each side. I keep an electric hot knife to one side for any cappings that have soaked in honey as they will not pop open. (It is important to transport frames carefully to try and avoid this). You will have hardly any honey run off or wax after a whole box of frames. Nothing at the end to melt down. Put the frames in the spinner and spin the honey off, emptying into a honey bucket as it fills towards the bottom of the frames in the spinner. I use a double sieve only. to clean up I simply scrape the sides of the spinner with a flexible silicon kitchen spatula and then wipe the bottom of the tap and take the whole thing into the shower where I use warm water and the shower hose to clean it. Take care not to lose the ball bearing down the plug hole. I leave the honey in the bucket for 24 hours and jar up immediately. Clean the bucket the same way.
There is an art to using the hot air gun but practise makes perfect. Just don't linger in one place too long!
Once finished role up the lino and take it outside for a hose down. Keep it for the next lot!
I like to extract in small amounts of two boxes at a time but that is a personal thing for me to get different honeys during the season. I also use a refractometer frequently throughout the extraction and when jarring up. Better safe than sorry.
Hope this helps

https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize/topics/zvwwxnb/articles/z9n73k7
 

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