Home Made Oxallic Sublimator

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A couple of questions , hopefully some wiser heads in the DIY dept can answer.

http://www.ie.screwfix.com/soldering-drip-mat-240-x-240mm-87e23e.html would this suffice for under the element ? How do you fix it to under the element ?

http://www.ie.screwfix.com/sealed-lead-acid-battery-12v-2-1ah-67-x-35-x-178mm.html
Battery good enough , approx how many operations would this cover ?

http://www.ie.screwfix.com/ring-rcb104-4a-car-battery-charger-12v.html sufficient to recharge ?

Think I need to lie down !

2.1Ah is not enough..

You need approx 10Amps for 2 minutes to heat oxalic. =20/60 Amp Hours. or 0.33AH..

So your battery would be flat after 6 hives.. In reality, as the battery discharges, the current supplied will fall.

Buy a used car battery -40AmpHours - for £20 . It will supply all teh current you need over 5-20hives..

And of course when it is cold, batteries give less current.. And we apply oxalic in winter..
 
Thanks, is a Jewler's measuring scale really necessary or would a good digital kitchen scales suffice ?

Teaspoon and eye, fractions don't make much odds in the sublimating game.
 
Thanks, is a Jewler's measuring scale really necessary or would a good digital kitchen scales suffice ?
I have one but I find that the small plastic spoon that Thorne put in their oxalic is fairly accurate and as accurate as you need
 
Ok now you're talking, professional looking bit of kit at a decent price . Ordered !

Still going to cobble together a DIY backup model.

Thanks for all the help !
 
Re Oxalic Sublimination.

Am I right in saying that always there is a need to use alternative treatments additional to this method....or... can this be used solely.

Appreciate it will only get the little B*$^%rd's in the Phoretic stage though this is also the case with MAQS and Oxalic dribble. yes ?
 
Re Oxalic Sublimination.

Am I right in saying that always there is a need to use alternative treatments additional to this method....or... can this be used solely.
It can be used solely - this seems to be the way forward, of course there is always the proviso that occasionally you may see the need for additional treatment
 
Excellent.

Now on average, and i appreciate fully the answer depends on mite loads and monitoring, but, to give me a guideline, how many times would you treat an averaged sized colony per year, and approximately when ?

Again I appreciate the monitoring aspect, but good to get some indication.

Also who has switched to this method exclusively, for how long have you been operating it solely ?

Thanks
 
Excellent.

Now on average, and i appreciate fully the answer depends on mite loads and monitoring, but, to give me a guideline, how many times would you treat an averaged sized colony per year, and approximately when ?

Again I appreciate the monitoring aspect, but good to get some indication.

Also who has switched to this method exclusively, for how long have you been operating it solely ?

Thanks

The rule of thumb appears to be:

If colony is broodless, 1 treatment is enough.

If there is brood, you need to kill emerging mites so 3 treatments 5 days apart.
 
So , with a Vapouriser winging its way to me as we speak, I need to treat my hives. ( checked mite drop, need treating )

2.5g Acid vapourised in closed up hive for 9 minutes. You say
If there is brood, you need to kill emerging mites so 3 treatments 5 days apart.
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So I need to treat each 3 times , as I believe brood is still present looking externally at pollen flow.

Am I sounding like I have a proper plan ?
 

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