I do. They came in a box and were a bit dusty. Washed and then dried in the oven.I wonder how many people sterilize there new jars?
Yes ... melt it down for scrap ...
Oh...I don't know.
Absolutely. That is all I ever do since a Master Beekeeper mentored me umpteen years ago. And never have soap anywhere near either.
Pressure washer the best if you have one.
Bloody expensive water barrel
Ah but it is ", fully operational. no dents or scratches"Bloody expensive water barrel
Cold water removes honey and wax, but those little flecks of propolis will only come off with boiling water.
Sterilising must have a purpose to warrant the trouble and expense - before a medical operation, for example - but what is the point of sterilising a drum that will be stored unsealed (unless vacuum sealed) and will soon be filled with frames loaded with all the bacteria that nature has to offer?
Honey is surely not sterile at any point between flower and human stomach. An exception (perhaps) might be medical-grade manuka.
As an EH officer I would be unlikely to take environmental swabs or samples of honey when doing a food hygiene inspection or following a complaint (unless there was a very specific reason). However I would be looking that food business operator was using appropriate cleaning processes/products on food preparation surfaces and equipment befor use and putting it to storage. The reason I would expect the extractor to be cleaned and given a sanitise spray prior to cleaning is pretty self evident, as the equipment has most likely been out of use for months. At the end of use washing with water could be adequate prior to storage but a spray and wipe wood be preferable to inhibit any microbial action (once saw an association extractor full of black mould after being washed (poorly I asume) and then stored. As to the expense a 1Litre of spray from booker with the correct BS EN cert costs less than £3.00.
Out of interest, what chemicals are in these sprays and how long does the sterilisation last for under typical honey extractor storage conditions (in my case with the lid closed and inside a storage container)?
Off the top of my head I can't recall the active chemicals in the different brands. Most of them have instructions that you spray it on leave for a set length of time (30 seconds to 5 mins depending on brand) and then wipe off with a clean cloth. As for how long it lasts, it lasts until it is contaminated so if you store your equipment dry and with the lid closed (I put a wrap of pallet wrap cling film around mine when putting away) it will remain a clean surface. If you store it exposed to airflow in a dusty shed it won't be clean for long, if you pick your nose and have a big cough in it less so again. Like I said the main reason I give mine a spray is just to ensure there is no yeast or mould that could be in a seam or thread etc. To be honest it is probably more than is needed and a good wash and ensuring its dry before closing it up would suffice but I have the spray in the honey room so figure its does no harm. While on about cleaning products the stainless steel cleaning spray / decreaser sold in booker ( i see it a lot in kebab shops to wipe down surfaces) does a great job at getting propolis off equipment.
Guessing it could have been around the time the 2004 regulations came in?
Hi Ben. The regulations do allow for small producers to supply small quantities of produce to the end user or local retailer supplying the end user. Definition of small and local is a bit woolly. But if you are selling your 100lbs direct to the consumer (or a local shop) then all good. If you sold buckets to another beekeeper or intermediary then that is a different case. If your do require to register the regulations are exactly the same for your kitchen as they are for a bigger businesses. However the regulations (852/2004) require things like
