Cleaning honey extractors

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If you have a hose with good pressure, after the soap and water treatment give the insides a good jetting to rinse off. Often that's all mine needs between extractions.
Absolutely. That is all I ever do since a Master Beekeeper mentored me umpteen years ago. And never have soap anywhere near either.
 
I have an old galv settling tank give to me when I bought a food grade plastic extractor 15 years ago or so. It's handy to keep/store the wild bird food in and keep the mice at bay.
 
I remember being at the Pembrokeshire bee auctions years ago stood opposite a one time forumite who lived not too far from me and being agog when someone paid well over £100.00 for an piece of old galvanised trash, the said forumite was giggling and came over to introduce himself - it was he who was selling it, a newbie mistake from his first season who had been put right on here. He then went to further astound me as the next lot was an 'as new' four frame extractor (can't remember whether it was stainless or plastic) which he bought for twenty quid!! both of us spent the next few lots just laughing like fools.
 
As it is used in food production I would still recommend sterilising it with a suitable solution. It would certainly be expected if environmental health ever followed up on honey sales and honey is not always sterile.
Sterilising must have a purpose to warrant the trouble and expense - before a medical operation, for example - but what is the point of sterilising a drum that will be stored unsealed (unless vacuum sealed) and will soon be filled with frames loaded with all the bacteria that nature has to offer?

I'm struggling to envisage a TS or EH officer checking for sterility (unless they wish to tick a meaningless box) and if it were so, all other extraction machinery would have to be treated similarly, and stored to preserve that sterility.
honey is not always sterile.
Honey is surely not sterile at any point between flower and human stomach. An exception (perhaps) might be medical-grade manuka.
 
Sterilising must have a purpose to warrant the trouble and expense - before a medical operation, for example - but what is the point of sterilising a drum that will be stored unsealed (unless vacuum sealed) and will soon be filled with frames loaded with all the bacteria that nature has to offer?

I'm struggling to envisage a TS or EH officer checking for sterility (unless they wish to tick a meaningless box) and if it were so, all other extraction machinery would have to be treated similarly, and stored to preserve that sterility.

Honey is surely not sterile at any point between flower and human stomach. An exception (perhaps) might be medical-grade manuka.
As an EH officer I would be unlikely to take environmental swabs or samples of honey when doing a food hygiene inspection or following a complaint (unless there was a very specific reason). However I would be looking that food business operator was using appropriate cleaning processes/products on food preparation surfaces and equipment befor use and putting it to storage. The reason I would expect the extractor to be cleaned and given a sanitise spray prior to cleaning is pretty self evident, as the equipment has most likely been out of use for months. At the end of use washing with water could be adequate prior to storage but a spray and wipe wood be preferable to inhibit any microbial action (once saw an association extractor full of black mould after being washed (poorly I asume) and then stored. As to the expense a 1Litre of spray from booker with the correct BS EN cert costs less than £3.00.
Most honey is near enough sterile due to the high sugar and low water and other properties And it is a very low risk food. But I am sure we have all seen fermentation, so under certain circumstances it is able to support significant microbial growth, though that is a quality not safety issue. The viability of C. botulinum spores to survive in honey is well documented.
There was a paper I read recently (name escapes me but I have it on my lap top so can post reference later) that documented how good hygiene practices in honey production can significantly lower the count of C. botulinum in honey. Which that in itself is reason enough in my opinion. I think my line of work probably makes me more cautious than most, but regularly seeing the effects of people thinking "it will be ok" when it comes to food processing make me keen not to cut any corners and probably be a bit belt and braces when preparing a food product for sale myself. The chances of any harm from using just water to clean an extractor are very very small. But if using a correct cleaning/ sanatising spray removes the chance of things like black mould forming in a nook, cranny or screw thread that could find it way into a jar of honey or if it keeps the Clostridium botulinum count to as low as possible it's worth an extra few minutes of effort. I dont have it to hand but think the BFA food hygiene guidance makes similar recommendations with regards to clean products.
 
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1Litre of spray from booker with the correct BS EN cert
Out of interest, what chemicals are in these sprays and how long does the sterilisation last for under typical honey extractor storage conditions (in my case with the lid closed and inside a storage container)?
 
Only about twenty years ago a village general stores near me had been serving the local population for over a hundred years. The local county council visited and produced a fantastically long list of improvements that were demanded to trade in groceries. This list was considered by the owner who rapidly assessed the cost of complying would require a couple of years profit. As a result - he closed the shop and changed the shop space into living accommodation so no more business rates to pay, then he retired.
The village lost another facility despite the long and useful history. Now residents have to travel for their groceries plastic wrapped and other needs from supermarkets. Remember the old saying "you eat a bushel of muck in your lifetime"
 
Out of interest, what chemicals are in these sprays and how long does the sterilisation last for under typical honey extractor storage conditions (in my case with the lid closed and inside a storage container)?
Off the top of my head I can't recall the active chemicals in the different brands. Most of them have instructions that you spray it on leave for a set length of time (30 seconds to 5 mins depending on brand) and then wipe off with a clean cloth. As for how long it lasts, it lasts until it is contaminated so if you store your equipment dry and with the lid closed (I put a wrap of pallet wrap cling film around mine when putting away) it will remain a clean surface. If you store it exposed to airflow in a dusty shed it won't be clean for long, if you pick your nose and have a big cough in it less so again. Like I said the main reason I give mine a spray is just to ensure there is no yeast or mould that could be in a seam or thread etc. To be honest it is probably more than is needed and a good wash and ensuring its dry before closing it up would suffice but I have the spray in the honey room so figure its does no harm. While on about cleaning products the stainless steel cleaning spray / decreaser sold in booker ( i see it a lot in kebab shops to wipe down surfaces) does a great job at getting propolis off equipment.
 
Only about twenty years ago a village general stores near me had been serving the local population for over a hundred years. The local county council visited and produced a fantastically long list of improvements that were demanded to trade in groceries. This list was considered by the owner who rapidly assessed the cost of complying would require a couple of years profit. As a result - he closed the shop and changed the shop space into living accommodation so no more business rates to pay, then he retired.
The village lost another facility despite the long and useful history. Now residents have to travel for their groceries plastic wrapped and other needs from supermarkets. Remember the old saying "you eat a bushel of muck in your lifetime"
Guessing it could have been around the time the 2004 regulations came in?
It is a really difficult balancing act sometimes. Where I work we have many 500 year old plus buildings with food businesses in them and you need to balance what business are able to do (financial, practically and in listed buildings etc) with ensuring the food they produce is safe and hygienic.
 
PeaBee,
For the first time I've produced 100lb of honey for sale. Not registered with the local council. When it's a matter of whether food is safe is there any difference in the standards for me, in my kitchen, and someone producing 10,000lbs?

I have met a bee farmer who commented about the poor hygiene standards of some amateurs.

I have to take my extractor completely apart after rinsing it with a garden hose as I can't get to the bottom of the drum. Wash and dry the parts outside in the sun and then reassemble. Will then rinse with hose and dry before using again. I'm thinking this is not good enough. (Photo is when I first got it and had to clean all the grease from the bearings and gears!)

. . . . Ben
IMGP20180610-05-crop.jpg
 
PeaBee,
For the first time I've produced 100lb of honey for sale. Not registered with the local council. When it's a matter of whether food is safe is there any difference in the standards for me, in my kitchen, and someone producing 10,000lbs?

I have met a bee farmer who commented about the poor hygiene standards of some amateurs.

I have to take my extractor completely apart after rinsing it with a garden hose as I can't get to the bottom of the drum. Wash and dry the parts outside in the sun and then reassemble. Will then rinse with hose and dry before using again. I'm thinking this is not good enough. (Photo is when I first got it and had to clean all the grease from the bearings and gears!)

. . . . Ben
View attachment 29442
Hi Ben. The regulations do allow for small producers to supply small quantities of produce to the end user or local retailer supplying the end user. Definition of small and local is a bit woolly. But if you are selling your 100lbs direct to the consumer (or a local shop) then all good. If you sold buckets to another beekeeper or intermediary then that is a different case. If your do require to register the regulations are exactly the same for your kitchen as they are for a bigger businesses. However the regulations (852/2004) require things like
"The layout design and construction are to permit adequate maintenance cleaning and/or disinfection..." now if your kitchen is in good repair with no missing tiles and grout etc and able to be cleaned properly there is likely to be no issue. Obviously if it was in full time use as a food business the expectations would be for stainless steel etc. But for occasional use a normal clean kitchen is usually fine in terms of structure. What most small scale producers lack is is a food safety management system based on HACCP. Which simplified is just a documented way of how you manage the risks.
Since the 1st lock down we have seen an increase in the numbers of small business setting up so are quite used to working with small home based businesses.
The bee farmer you spoke to probably has a point (though there is good and bad in each sector) I wrote my MSc dissertation on how risk factors change as business size increases. With unregulated micro producers at one and international supply chains (and lack of traceability) at the other. The honey industry is a great example of this. I think (hope) that most of us take pride in the end product and produce it in safe hygienic environments, be that in our kitchen, honey room etc. Whether we are registered or not. Unfortunately a quick look on YouTube will soon show you people extracting and processing in all sorts of unsuitable places and ways.
With regards to your extractor if you are thinking it's not good enough then you have probably answered your own question.
Cheers
PB
 

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