Carbonate crown boards

[user 819]

I bought my poly carb 5mm off ebay, they were ex light diffuser panels. Worked out about £6 each.

 

[fiat500bee]

By using a polycarbonate crownboard you lose the draught-free permeability which natural timber materials allow. This might increase the risk of condensation within the hive. I suspect (and will find out) that this might also be an issue with the crownboard on my Abelo hive which has a central ventilation option which I would prefer not to use.

 

[The Poot in Somerset]

I bought it cut to size as it wasn't much more expensive than a sheet. Just googled it and bought the cheapest. Easy to drill. Cut centre holes with a hole cutter. Used mitre glue to stick the edges on. I use mitre glue for everything. Brilliant stuff. But screwed it in the corners too for belt and braces, probably unnecessary!

Thanks E I’ll add this to my list. I need some new crown boards anyway.

 

[enrico]

By using a polycarbonate crownboard you lose the draught-free permeability which natural timber materials allow. This might increase the risk of condensation within the hive. I suspect (and will find out) that this might also be an issue with the crownboard on my Abelo hive which has a central ventilation option which I would prefer not to use.

All my hives are wood so unlikely to matter!

 

[Speybee]

Have been meaning to get a couple of these (or try and make them) and notice they are back in stock now. Any winter condensation issues or are they as good as the wooden ones in this respect?

In my experience the glass ones suffer from condensation.
So in spring I put on my glass observation board until end of September and then I change over to wooden.

 

[drdrday]

By using a polycarbonate crownboard you lose the draught-free permeability which natural timber materials allow. This might increase the risk of condensation within the hive. I suspect (and will find out) that this might also be an issue with the crownboard on my Abelo hive which has a central ventilation option which I would prefer not to use.

I have a slab of insulation in each of my roofs. This sits down right on top of the crown board and I don't get any condensation. In the winter they get a second slab of insulation in an eke just under the roof too.

 

[Speybee]

Also I bought 2 ready made poly boards from a supplier in Cornwall.....all I can say it was an expensive mistake. Spot the mistake made by the manufacturer!

 

[Erichalfbee]

By using a polycarbonate crownboard you lose the draught-free permeability which natural timber materials allow. This might increase the risk of condensation within the hive. I suspect (and will find out) that this might also be an issue with the crownboard on my Abelo hive which has a central ventilation option which I would prefer not to use.

You avoid condensation on the crown board by insulating on top of it. If the top is warmer than the sides any condensation appears on the side walls and the corners of the crown board where the bees can use it

 

[Mandeville]

I've used polycarb for years. They do lead to some condensation but it's never been enough to matter.

 

[pargyle]

I lasted one year with wooden crownboards.

I didn't last that long ... I started the Long deep hive off with plywood crown boards and almost as soon as I had the hive occupied I changed them over to clear crownboards. All my hives have them - just so easy to lift the roof off, pull out the insulation and look down into the hive - doesn't disturb them at all - even in mid-winter. So reassuring when you see them alive and active on the frames on a frosty day in January.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/99514363@N06/albums/72157634865981506

 

[E&MBees]

I have one hive with a polycarbonate crown board. One side is the depth of an eke, so can take a small feeder or extra insulation, the other the standard depth for a crown board. Turn it over, and I can fit some fondant between the frames and the poly. There is a small hole in the middle for the feeder which can be sealed. I’m about to make another one for the other hive.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

By using a polycarbonate crownboard you lose the draught-free permeability which natural timber materials allow. This might increase the risk of condensation within the hive. I suspect (and will find out) that this might also be an issue with the crownboard on my Abelo hive which has a central ventilation option which I would prefer not to use.

Easy fix for both - cover the hole with a piece of ply, put 50mm celotex insulation over the crownboard - as I assume the Abelo is a poly so no need for that either

 

[pargyle]

I have a slab of insulation in each of my roofs. This sits down right on top of the crown board and I don't get any condensation. In the winter they get a second slab of insulation in an eke just under the roof too.

I have a super on top of all my hives above the clear crownboard and it is filled with Kingspan/Celotex insulation all the year round. Never had a condensation problem. I have blocks of insulation with holes cut in them so I can put a round rapid feeder on when needed and a thinner slab of insulation over the top of the feeder.

 

[robmort]

I made perspex crown boards for all my hives built into ekes with BBS and with space and a hole for a rapid feeder and insulation around and on top, as discussed before on these boards. No problems with condensation and wouldn't have them any other way.

 

[Frizzaldo]

Also I bought 2 ready made poly boards from a supplier in Cornwall.....all I can say it was an expensive mistake. Spot the mistake made by the manufacturer!

Use the middle one for feeder and cover the other with a piece of plywood.
I fill a plastic takeaway box with fondant and put it above the hole closest to the brood in winter, the other can be covered with a bit of ply then also. Probably allows some ventilation too

 

[enrico]

Use the middle one for feeder and cover the other with a piece of plywood.
I fill a plastic takeaway box with fondant and put it above the hole closest to the brood in winter, the other can be covered with a bit of ply then also. Probably allows some ventilation too

Ventilation? Do you feel they need it?

 

[Speybee]

Use the middle one for feeder and cover the other with a piece of plywood.
I fill a plastic takeaway box with fondant and put it above the hole closest to the brood in winter, the other can be covered with a bit of ply then also. Probably allows some ventilation too

Thanks for the advice.
Unfortunately there are 2 holes in each polycarbonate board and neither board allows a rapid feeder to sit flush without leaving a gap for the bees to escape, and if it is flush then only a wee bit of the hole in the polycarbonate sits under the access hole to the rapid feeder and I would be able to use the boards as I intended.
If even one hole was in the middle of the polycarbonate sheet, the rapid feeder would sit flush and allow full access to the bees without a gap for them to escape.
I only use these boards in the Spring to very early Autumn period for liquid syrup as needed to stimulate spring laying etc.
I don’t put a slab of fondant in a tub over the hole, as I roll out the entire 2.5kg slab across the entire area over the frames with a cardboard template between the rolled fondant and the crown board as it leaves the crown board less sticky.

 

[Frizzaldo]

Ventilation? Do you feel they need it?

by ventilation I meant moisture escape, I've never had a condensation problem (as mentioned earlier in the thread) with crown boards

 

[Curly green finger's]

Thanks for the advice.
Unfortunately there are 2 holes in each polycarbonate board and neither board allows a rapid feeder to sit flush without leaving a gap for the bees to escape, and if it is flush then only a wee bit of the hole in the polycarbonate sits under the access hole to the rapid feeder and I would be able to use the boards as I intended.
If even one hole was in the middle of the polycarbonate sheet, the rapid feeder would sit flush and allow full access to the bees without a gap for them to escape.
I only use these boards in the Spring to very early Autumn period for liquid syrup as needed to stimulate spring laying etc.
I don’t put a slab of fondant in a tub over the hole, as I roll out the entire 2.5kg slab across the entire area over the frames with a cardboard template between the rolled fondant and the crown board as it leaves the crown board less sticky.

Im the same with the fondant it goes on top of the frames I use parchment paper to combat the sticky crown board.
And some of my crown boards have an attached eke.
IMHO the closer the fondant to the cluster the better.

 

[Speybee]

Im the same with the fondant it goes on top of the frames I use parchment paper to combat the sticky crown board.
And some of my crown boards have an attached eke.
IMHO the closer the fondant to the cluster the better.

Brilliant idea about parchment paper I would be able to see how much fondant has been used as don’t want to get caught out with isolation starvation.
Totally agree with you about the fondant being close to the cluster is better.
Thanks for that tip it is really useful