Beeswax votive candles

[Erichalfbee]

Mine are from vista.

 

[E&MBees]

I was so impressed I’ve had a go myself. I’ve pre waxed the NT44 and stuck it in a sustainer. I’ve put scent in mine too.
Totting up the raw materials plus £1 an ounce for the wax they come out just under £4.50
Trying a trial burn.
Now how to price them

What price did you decide on Dani? Just calculating mine currently.

 

[Erichalfbee]

I’m going to try £7.50

 

[Kaz]

These look really good. I’ve today just done a test for a similar sized can. The wax cracked. So I put it in the oven to remelt the top and let it cool in the oven. Still cracked. How did you avoid cracks?

Update - I've subsequently tried putting any cracked candles in the oven (directly on the shelves) and once melted enough for the top to be covered by the melted wax, leaving them in there to cool. It has worked for me. Strange that we are all having different experiences with the same tins

 

[Kaz]

I’ve ordered some of the tins today. Thought they would look nice on my stall.
Where have folk gone for their labels?

I've printed my own labels because I wanted to be able to change the scents, use them for candles or wax melts etc with just a tweak of the design. I ordered avery labels and it was a bit of a faff setting them up but I really like having the flexibility to change them

 

[Kaz]

A quick question on the original subject of this thread, when making votive candles do you do a single pour or the recommended double pour method? I've tried a single pour, filling the moulds right to the brim and experience a bit of shrinkage but they appear reasonable and I'm wondering about the benefits of double pouring and whether it's worth the extra effort?

 

[Swarm]

Isn't the idea to help prevent shrinkage?

 

[elainemary]

A quick question on the original subject of this thread, when making votive candles do you do a single pour or the recommended double pour method? I've tried a single pour, filling the moulds right to the brim and experience a bit of shrinkage but they appear reasonable and I'm wondering about the benefits of double pouring and whether it's worth the extra effort?

I’ve double poured if a crack developed after the first pour. Covers the crack up and has a good final finish

 

[Kaz]

I’ve double poured if a crack developed after the first pour. Covers the crack up and has a good final finish

Did you give up on using the moulds in the end and just pour straight into the glasses?

 

[Kaz]

Isn't the idea to help prevent shrinkage?

Yes, this is my first time making candles so I was hoping to learn from others experiences, whether the results of double pouring are worth the extra time and effort. Some of my attempts so far haven't been great, I seemed to get join lines when I tried to double pour... I'm running out of time to keep experimenting so was trying to shortcut

 

[Swarm]

Do you let the first pour set before doing a second? I would do a first pour, leave it a short time and then top up.

 

[elainemary]

Did you give up on using the moulds in the end and just pour straight into the glasses?

Hi I’ve been away and not had the chance to do more. Plan to get cracking again next week! Will give moulds another go, using more silicone spray. The glasses trials were fine and all the wax was used and came clean. If I can crack the moulds so easier to remove the candle, I’d prefer this way and think they look nicer placed in the glass. Good to make ‘spares’ rather than using more glass. Also, as you’ve pointed out a second pour does give a join line which you wouldn’t see in a tin
How are your tins selling?

 

[elainemary]

Do you let the first pour set before doing a second? I would do a first pour, leave it a short time and then top up.

Wonder if the crack will still develop though if you do a second pour before it’s set? The crack only seems to appear when the edges have started to set and that’s why I think you get a join line…?

 

[Kaz]

Hi I’ve been away and not had the chance to do more. Plan to get cracking again next week! Will give moulds another go, using more silicone spray. The glasses trials were fine and all the wax was used and came clean. If I can crack the moulds so easier to remove the candle, I’d prefer this way and think they look nicer placed in the glass. Good to make ‘spares’ rather than using more glass. Also, as you’ve pointed out a second pour does give a join line which you wouldn’t see in a tin
How are your tins selling?

I'm sticking with the moulds I think, having another go this morning. Did an experiment yesterday, sprayed the moulds before inserting the wick pins and again after, tried a single pour and double pour, in both cold moulds and warm moulds. Warm mould single pour definitely have the best finish, a very slight dip in the middle but the double pour leaked down the sides where the first pour had shrunk away from the edge and looked pretty messy (I only left it 15 minutes between pours). Ask the candles came out easily from the moulds so i think silicone spray is the answer. The wicks is the next problem but I think I have a system of using a cordless drill to widen the hole from the bottom, not quite taking it all the way through, and using the wick pin to wiggle to top of the channel just big enough for the last bit of the wick. Burns OK, right to the edge, but I found the flame got a bit small half way down and I had to take some of the wax pool out. My tins are selling OK, some individually, some in the honey gift sets. It's been fun but a big learning curve and time pressure. I realise now I should have started my Christmas prep in August!

 

[elainemary]

I'm sticking with the moulds I think, having another go this morning. Did an experiment yesterday, sprayed the moulds before inserting the wick pins and again after, tried a single pour and double pour, in both cold moulds and warm moulds. Warm mould single pour definitely have the best finish, a very slight dip in the middle but the double pour leaked down the sides where the first pour had shrunk away from the edge and looked pretty messy (I only left it 15 minutes between pours). Ask the candles came out easily from the moulds so i think silicone spray is the answer. The wicks is the next problem but I think I have a system of using a cordless drill to widen the hole from the bottom, not quite taking it all the way through, and using the wick pin to wiggle to top of the channel just big enough for the last bit of the wick. Burns OK, right to the edge, but I found the flame got a bit small half way down and I had to take some of the wax pool out. My tins are selling OK, some individually, some in the honey gift sets. It's been fun but a big learning curve and time pressure. I realise now I should have started my Christmas prep in August!

It’s a labour of love isn’t it?

 

[Kaz]

It’s a labour of love isn’t it?

Something like that

 

[E&MBees]

It’s a labour of love isn’t it?

And angst!! Think I’ve aged years!

 

[E&MBees]

Have you tried inserting the tins in a piece cellotex to slow down cooling?I’ve found that the tea lights don’t crack or sink when I do that.

 

[Kaz]

Have you tried inserting the tins in a piece cellotex to slow down cooling?I’ve found that the tea lights don’t crack or sink when I do that.

Ooh now that's another level!
*heads off to building site to scrounge cellotex*

 

[E&MBees]

Ooh now that's another level!
*heads off to building site to scrounge cellotex*

I’ve got lots of scraps of cellotex stashed in the loft. They have been really useful recently