bees and fondant

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bramblebee

New Bee
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
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Location
Wisbech
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
020
my bees are eating fondant like mad at the moment
should i give them more or would that be a problem
how do you gage when they have anouth
and if i over feed will it be a problem getting them started early in the year
and increase the chance that they will swarm
I am wanting to go brood and a half this year or doulble brood not sure which yet
when should i put the extra on
Thank you in advance
 
If they are taking it, feed, feed, feed. Our local Bee Inspector says you can't overfeed.
 
Cheers what about adding the extra brood room
 
If they are taking it, feed, feed, feed. Our local Bee Inspector says you can't overfeed.

Yes, but if they don't need it...

Bramblebee,

You can assess whether your bees need fondant or net by "hefting" (weighing the hives). If they are light feed more. Given the choice between fondant and stores bees will eat the fondant so, if you continue to feed unnecessarily, you may find a box packed with stores next spring... This would not be desirable... With the winter that we are having I doubt that this will take place but...

Fondant does cost and with 10 hives continuous re-supplying of fondant may become quite expensive by the end of winter!!!

Ben P
 
Given the choice between fondant and stores bees will eat the fondant so

Well i never knew that, i usually plop on a block of fondant quite late, i used to think that if they rocket through it then they must be low on stores, Oh well.....
 
Well i never knew that, i usually plop on a block of fondant quite late, i used to think that if they rocket through it then they must be low on stores, Oh well.....

Don't quote me on it! I may be wrong but I do remember reading it in a book or on here- and I have found it with mine.

Ben P
 
Yes, but if they don't need it...

Bramblebee,

You can assess whether your bees need fondant or net by "hefting" (weighing the hives). If they are light feed more. Given the choice between fondant and stores bees will eat the fondant so, if you continue to feed unnecessarily, you may find a box packed with stores next spring... This would not be desirable... With the winter that we are having I doubt that this will take place but...

Fondant does cost and with 10 hives continuous re-supplying of fondant may become quite expensive by the end of winter!!!

Ben P

Well, recently I was informed by a very experienced keeper, that he actually feeds continuosly, even during the summer.

The bees draw out foundation and store the sugar/fondant. He gets many frames of stores, which he puts back in winter to other colonies as required.

You do however have to keep feeding.

This year it is my intention to try it with one hive.
 
on average a hive will need stores roughly around 10 to 20kg in wieght to get from january to april with a general build up.

some maybe less some maybe more.

i was not not going to stat feeding that heavely untill alte feb early march as , since they have started munching they dont stop and any lack of supply will cause problems with the laying of new bees.

so now you started keep going
 
Given the choice between fondant and stores bees will eat the fondant so, if you continue to feed unnecessarily, you may find a box packed with stores next spring
I dont' agree with this. Many a time fondant remains untouched on an over-wintered hive, the bees have been happy with thier stores.
I would be surprised that over-wintering bees will store fondant- I've never seen this with my colonies that have been short of stores.
The general message is if in doubt about the amount of winter stores then always feed fondant. Don't let your bees starve.
Alec
 
Well, recently I was informed by a very experienced keeper, that he actually feeds continuosly, even during the summer.

am I therefore correct in thinking that any honey taken from the hive would not be pure honey?????
 
am I therefore correct in thinking that any honey taken from the hive would not be pure honey?????

Correct assumption, but SB does imply that the beek in question recognises this and harvests the laid down 'frames????' as stores for distribution as required later in the year to other colonies, not quite sure how this sits with regard disease control though.
 
OK, lets address each part carefully.

my bees are eating fondant like mad at the moment I believe you. Mine are not eating any at all.

should i give them more or would that be a problem If they need it, you must give them more. If they do and you don't, they may starve and die.

how do you gage when they have anouth When they stop using it?

if i over feed will it be a problem getting them started early in the year No, they will get started when they are ready. After starting there may be a problem with brooding space if the box is still crammed with winter stores, so it depends on whether the bees have already used up their own stored winter food or not. 'No space' will inhibit her laying! Think! She needs space for three weeks laying time before those cells, already in use, become available again.

increase the chance that they will swarm That is down to the beekeeper.

I am wanting to go brood and a half this year or doulble brood not sure which yet
when should i put the extra on
By the post contents, you may need a second brood chamber (if the single brood box is crammed with stores and little brood) even for a 'less than optimum' strength colony. Only you will know that, from experience and observation.

All the above is guesswork, not knowing the actual state of play, regarding stores, in your hive(s), or colony strength, etc. (not sure whether you have one or ten from your profile!).

You are the beekeeper and you need to work according to some basic beekeeping rules to manage your bees. They will try to do what they want to do, you can easily facilitate these 'wants' but it is much more difficult to make them do something entirely different.

It is far easier to thwart their efforts by removing their basic requirements, but that will not change the bees' plans. Adding an empty (foundation only) second brood box above a not-so-strong colony too early would severely inhibit the colony development by reason of heat. Having restricted brood space is as explained above. Shortage of appropriate stores (carbohydrate and protein) would curtail brooding, even to the point of brood being sacrificed and ejected on occasions. Water is also a definite requirement for brooding, if using honey as the carbohydrate source.

Beekeeping in early spring is all about managing these factors, which could otherwise limit the brood build-up to the prevailing conditions in the hive - that means a reduced build-up rate. How you go about that is by applying basic beekeeping practices. No rocket science; simple observation and action to expedite the necessary conditions to allow/encourage an increase in numbers of workers, by a little (or perhaps a lot), ahead of what they would otherwise achieve.

Now, if you can get them expanded greatly, and early, there may be other tasks for the beekeeper - prevention starving and, later, of swarming.

Regards, RAB
 
Correct assumption, but SB does imply that the beek in question recognises this and harvests the laid down 'frames????' as stores for distribution as required later in the year to other colonies, not quite sure how this sits with regard disease control though.


The disease question was one that crossed my mind too. I do hope to try it this season and see how it pans out.
 
We have 10 Natinal hives
8 were good strong hives that produced honey well last year
1 was an early swarm and was starting to work on a super at the end of the year
so was left alone
The other was a late swarm or more like a cast and we added bee brood and some brood frames with honey on for them, looked to be doing ok before winter
All bees had vorola treatment and a good feed of sugar water
Then had a small amount of fondant which over the last few days they have eaten,not touched when it was cold
All bees were out flyong about after lunch time here to day,good to see them
On most of the hives we would like to go brood and a half
Some have supers on at the moment so i surpose when the first inspection is here we will lift the queen excluder
This is our first winter with bees
We are on a top fruit farm and there main am is to help were they can weather permitting with pollunation
And I have been totaly hocked on the little bugers
Neather even eaten honey before now have it most days
Hope it will help with my hay feaver
 
Some have supers on at the moment so i surpose when the first inspection is here we will lift the queen excluder

Hi bramblebee -I don't think you should have left the QE on, there is a danger of the queen getting seperated form the cluster as they seek stores.

Others will have a better idea as to whether the disruption of taking it off at this time of year though is worth the risk .
 
Bramblebee.....could you possibly change your profile to reflect your location within the UK?


:patriot:
 
Some have supers on at the moment so i surpose when the first inspection is here we will lift the queen excluder

:iagree:

Well done Mons.A

Should have been easily spotted but I just scanned through quickly last night.

A disaster in the making, if not already. Another case of disturbing the colony ASAP or risk losing it.

One problem of spliting a hive at this time of the year is the bees will not propolise any gaps, so the hive may not be as watertight or draught-free.
I would pull the boxes together with a hive strap after disturbance.

Regards, RAB
 

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