Abelo oxalic acid strips

[Erichalfbee]

I'd be assuming 4 strips per brood box to give an adequate clean

Just got some
Now my Polish is rudimentary but I can’t see instructions
Tried to phone Abelo, busy
Have emailed

 

[foghornleghorn]

Just got some
Now my Polish is rudimentary but I can’t see instructions
Tried to phone Abelo, busy
Have emailed

What size are they?

 

[Erichalfbee]

What size are they?

40x2.5cm

 

[Swarm]

How to apply? Between the frames and cut to frame depth or across the top bars?

 

[Erichalfbee]

How to apply? Between the frames and cut to frame depth or across the top bars?

Top bars occurred to me which is what Randy Oliver does with his shop towels
How long for? Do you need to repeat?
I’ll check his site out

 

[Erichalfbee]

Top bars occurred to me which is what Randy Oliver does with his shop towels
How long for? Do you need to repeat?
I’ll check his site out

His shop towels are just left in till bees chew them up
I’ll see what Abelo say

 

[foghornleghorn]

40x2.5cm

They sound a bit small. Fold in half and sit over a frame so it covers two seams.. I'd say 5 or 6 per hive to cover a full box of brood

When I made them they were 40mm wide and 460mm long

 

[bingevader]

His shop towels are just left in till bees chew them up
I’ll see what Abelo say

If you have any joy with the instructions, I'd be interested in knowing if it could be used in late winter/early spring instead of trickling.
Would be happy to have a go, unscientifically.

 

[Swarm]

I'd imagine they are more for use during build up as there is greater activity.

 

[Swarm]

His shop towels are just left in till bees chew them up
I’ll see what Abelo say

That was my understanding, which would make them handy in early Spring.

 

[SDM]

Top bars occurred to me which is what Randy Oliver does with his shop towels
How long for? Do you need to repeat?
I’ll check his site out

Yes but he puts them on the top bars BETWEEN boxes. It's essential the bees have access to both sides of the towel.
The strips are hung vertically in the "aluen cap" style

 

[mbc]

Just got some
Now my Polish is rudimentary but I can’t see instructions
Tried to phone Abelo, busy
Have emailed

I have some Polish friends if you want to scan the instructions and send them over, they'd happily translate and I could post it on here.
It's a shame the forum is populated by a fringe of self righteous vmd police or a thread like this might actually develope into a decent read for educational purposes.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

We really do need a like button

 

[For want of a better word]

We really do need a like button

 

[Erichalfbee]

I have some Polish friends if you want to scan the instructions and send them over, they'd happily translate and I could post it on here.
It's a shame the forum is populated by a fringe of self righteous vmd police or a thread like this might actually develope into a decent read for educational purposes.

Thanks mbc
I have a smattering of Polish ( parents were Polish)
The lettering in the packaging is hazard info and use by date
I have the information now
4 strips hung over the top bars

I might try this out in Spring if indicated
It would be really exciting if this worked. It would save countless beekeepers a lot of work and having to buy expensive kit.
Still happy with the sublimox for autumn

 

[Walrus]

Randy Oliver found the best ratio of OA: Glycerin was 1:1 and the treatment was 18g OA per hive on the paper towels. I think the treatment period was 50 days. Some bees chew up the paper and chuck it out but some don't. The remains need to be scraped off frame tops with the hive tool wearing gloves.

18g sounds a lot but it is slow release compared to the 1g amount usually used in sublimation.

As far as I can tell the reason he went down the OA/glycerin route was the high temperatures in CA in summer/autumn made MAQS too harsh (released too quickly). He wants something that works when honey supers are still on.

 

[Beefriendly]

IIRC from Randy's articles it worked for most hives, but not all hives. So you still need to check mite levels, it's not a 100% answer.

 

[mbc]

For some reason Randy Oliver decided hanging strips would be too labour intensive therefore plumbed for impregnated paper towels placed between boxes in double brood set ups, to me this gives the bees ample opportunity to bypass the towels compared to hanging strips of cardboard right next to the brood nest where the bees are duty bound to try and remove them. A friend of mine who trailed this with inch wide strips of cereal box cardboard found that after a month and a half the bees will have all but nibbled away the strips leaving only the bit hanging on the wooden part of the frame.

 

[Swarm]

For some reason Randy Oliver decided hanging strips would be too labour intensive therefore plumbed for impregnated paper towels placed between boxes in double brood set ups, to me this gives the bees ample opportunity to bypass the towels compared to hanging strips of cardboard right next to the brood nest where the bees are duty bound to try and remove them. A friend of mine who trailed this with inch wide strips of cereal box cardboard found that after a month and a half the bees will have all but nibbled away the strips leaving only the bit hanging on the wooden part of the frame.

Which is why strips instead of dribble/OAV in Winter would be less effective. I was considering leaving out mid winter treatment in favour of Autumn/Spring, this idea may be just the thing.

 

[Beefriendly]

For some reason Randy Oliver decided hanging strips would be too labour intensive therefore plumbed for impregnated paper towels placed between boxes in double brood set ups, to me this gives the bees ample opportunity to bypass the towels compared to hanging strips of cardboard right next to the brood nest where the bees are duty bound to try and remove them. A friend of mine who trailed this with inch wide strips of cereal box cardboard found that after a month and a half the bees will have all but nibbled away the strips leaving only the bit hanging on the wooden part of the frame.

I can see the logic in both camps, pushing strips down between frames means they need to be stiff, unless you faff about and lift two out and sandwich one between. (i.e labour intensive if you have 100's of hives). Whereas laying them on top of frames is easier, and as you say, easier for the bees in some hives to bypass them.

Kinda explains why it was successful on the hives where the bees didn't bypass the horizontal strips.