Acetic acid question

[menteth]

Hello all you splendid lot.

4of my hives had cbpv this year. 3 died out really quickly.

The third survived, with your help. Thank you.

Luckily it didn’t spread to my other 5 hives.

I now have 3 empty hives with frames, that I’ve kept aside.
I’d really like to re-use these.

I’ve scraped all comb away (and burned).

How do you suggest I sterilise the hives?

I was thinking:
Blow torch then acetic acid?

With acetic acid, how do I apply it?
Spray? And leave?
Sponge it on?
Rinse off?
Sponge it on and bag it up damp?

How is acetic acid used?

Thanks very much

 

[blackcloud]

Bleach solution is anti fungal ,antiviral and antibacterial.
It's cheap and readily available.
Pay attention to floor and landing board( if present)
Keep solution on for at least 10 mins then rinse off.

 

[WoodenBeam]

https://www.bee-craft.com/beecraft-extra/articles/safe-use-and-handling-of-acetic-acid
We store supers/brood boxes all over winter with acetic acid and the stack wrapped in cling film. Does store them well but the wires embedded within the foundation do corrode so will eventually give out. Other than that it works well.

 

[Garry R]

As I have said before I store and over winter all frames in an old freezer and pop some acetic acid in a silicone loaf mould and shut the door. The fumes build up. No need for sealing and when finished just remove the acetic and the job's a good one. Plenty of freezers, post a wanted on freecycle. Bonus if tatty but still working as that's waxmoth sorted too. Amazing what people chuck out.

 

[menteth]

Hey everyone
Thanks.
So acetic is a fumigation thing.
For overwintering.

At the moment, I really need the brood boxes.

Post Cbpv, could I just give the BBoxes a good blow torch.
Would that do?


(The rest of the stuff I’ll acetic over winter).

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

At the moment, I really need the brood boxes.

they only need a quick flaming, to be honest, with CBPV there's no need to be anal about things, I've lost track of the supers that came off CBPV colonies in the past and I've never notices it cropping up on other colonies the following season.
The problem with Acetic acid is that it rots any metal it comes in contact with - even the wires embedded in foundation/comb so I'd be very cautious in its use

 

[menteth]

Thank you all for your responses

This is a brilliant forum

 

[Rory Fields]

they only need a quick flaming, to be honest, with CBPV there's no need to be anal about things, I've lost track of the supers that came off CBPV colonies in the past and I've never notices it cropping up on other colonies the following season.
The problem with Acetic acid is that it rots any metal it comes in contact with - even the wires embedded in foundation/comb so I'd be very cautious in its use

Is acetic save for fumigation in poly hives? I've looked for an answer and not seen it confirmed, though since it's application is often via plastic bowls I'm hopeful. Thanks everyone

 

[Rory Fields]

https://www.bee-craft.com/beecraft-extra/articles/safe-use-and-handling-of-acetic-acid
We store supers/brood boxes all over winter with acetic acid and the stack wrapped in cling film. Does store them well but the wires embedded within the foundation do corrode so will eventually give out. Other than that it works well.

Can you use acetic in poly hives and are you saying you just leave the acetic acid in all winter? Cheers

 

[WoodenBeam]

Can you use acetic in poly hives and are you saying you just leave the acetic acid in all winter? Cheers

We don’t use polys so unable to comment on that but yes, acetic left in over Winter and then aired in the Spring prior to supers being utilised again.

 

[Garry R]

I use polys but don't fumigate my super frames in the boxes with acetic acid - I do them in an old fridge or freezer - a small silicon baking tin left in over winter (saves the sealing of the stacks of boxes) and no mice or wax moth either. For the boxes themselves a good wash/scrub with hot washing soda and a good rinse. Others use bleach and I find Cillitt Bang black mould remover cleans them up well. Again a thorough rinse after. I also find that a wallpaper steamer jet gets rid of unwanted propolis on polys in and around the frame lugs and rests works well too and likely gives a bit of help with sterilisation. Some colonies are shockers for propolising others are not. I'm not paranoid about it but find the removal of "untidy" propolis makes inspections easier. Hope this helps.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I find Cillitt Bang black mould remover cleans them up well

which is basically a strong solution of hypochlorite, so might as well just buy a drum of that (It's what I do)

 

[Christine Hamilton]

Can you use acetic in poly hives and are you saying you just leave the acetic acid in all winter? Cheers

The ascetic acid evaporates after a week. So it’s hardly there all winter

 

[JamezF]

ascetic acid

I think you only need to use that if you keep your bees in a cave

James

 

[Rory Fields]

The ascetic acid evaporates after a week. So it’s hardly there all winter

Thanks for taking it so literally! I meant is it okay to leave the containers with the acetic in and just leave them be overwinter - have read of lots of folk being puzzled at the amount of acetic left in containers when they'd expected it to evaporate and am unaware of how/if it'd corrode plastic and then the combs and hive below. You made me chuckle!

 

[Garry R]

which is basically a strong solution of hypochlorite, so might as well just buy a drum of that (It's what I do)

What concentration do you buy in and if you dilute it for use what dilution do you make it.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

What concentration do you buy in and if you dilute it for use what dilution do you make it.

it's 11% concentration, I mix it at approximately 2/3 parts water, apply it with a scrubbing brush and wash/leave air dry

 

[Sutty]

Last year I used stacks of supers about 6-8 high, mixed poly and wood, with a plastic takeaway container in the top (empty) super about ¼ full of acetic acid. The whole stack was wrapped in wheelie bin liners then packaging film. The acid took weeks to evaporate at least (I reopened one after a few weeks to add more boxes). They were left until spring when all the acid had gone, but still a strong smell of acetic.
No wax moth seen, and only minor corrosion.

 

[Rory Fields]

I use polys but don't fumigate my super frames in the boxes with acetic acid - I do them in an old fridge or freezer - a small silicon baking tin left in over winter (saves the sealing of the stacks of boxes) and no mice or wax moth either. For the boxes themselves a good wash/scrub with hot washing soda and a good rinse. Others use bleach and I find Cillitt Bang black mould remover cleans them up well. Again a thorough rinse after. I also find that a wallpaper steamer jet gets rid of unwanted propolis on polys in and around the frame lugs and rests works well too and likely gives a bit of help with sterilisation. Some colonies are shockers for propolising others are not. I'm not paranoid about it but find the removal of "untidy" propolis makes inspections easier. Hope this helps.

Do you know if acetic is safe to use on poly though? Most of my hives are poly so would save a lot of faff and enable me to keep track of which supers velong to each colony if disease or a desire to be anal suddenky broke out. Cheers.

 

[Rory Fields]

Last year I used stacks of supers about 6-8 high, mixed poly and wood, with a plastic takeaway container in the top (empty) super about ¼ full of acetic acid. The whole stack was wrapped in wheelie bin liners then packaging film. The acid took weeks to evaporate at least (I reopened one after a few weeks to add more boxes). They were left until spring when all the acid had gone, but still a strong smell of acetic.
No wax moth seen, and only minor corrosion.

Corrosion to the metal and wires, or to the poly boxes themselves? Thanks