A platform for the extractor

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I have the same machine which is a bit of a beast hence my use of 4x2 and ply gussets which should support it well.
Mine is the same machine and I used the 2x3 PAR that Wickes sell in 8ft lengths.
A triangle chassis with blocks on top with rubber mounts that the legs locate onto.
With 4" braked casters under more blocks underneath it's more than sufficiently strong and gives enough hight to double sieve straight into a big settling tank.
 
Mine is the same machine and I used the 2x3 PAR that Wickes sell in 8ft lengths.
A triangle chassis with blocks on top with rubber mounts that the legs locate onto.
With 4" braked casters under more blocks underneath it's more than sufficiently strong and gives enough hight to double sieve straight into a big settling tank.
Sounds great. Any chance of a photo?
 
Just a snippet- if you place the front two castors alignment well in front of the honey gate ,then the geometry will put its trajectory up and over the collection receptacle when the extractor is tipped forwards, rather than a downward path onto it.
 
The old wheels had to go. This is version 2. Comments welcome. I might not be able to change this one now but they will help others do things better.
 

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The old wheels had to go. This is version 2. Comments welcome. I might not be able to change this one now but they will help others do things better.
I made mine almost identical to yours. I haven’t gone for tapered gussets just square lumps of 18mm ply that was lying around 😁
 
I made mine almost identical to yours. I haven’t gone for tapered gussets just square lumps of 18mm ply that was lying around 😁
Good to know!
I had square lumps of 18mm lying around, but the thought of a photo here upped my game :cool:
 
The old wheels had to go. This is version 2. Comments welcome. I might not be able to change this one now but they will help others do things better.
Looks good but perhaps lockable wheels as in post #8 and #14 may have been good?

Edit, I've managed now to open the photos and see you have got them! Great job!
 
Locking wheels pretty much essential -buying a 4 pack from eBay is cheaper than buying three singles.It will be dancing round the room without them.
Bigger the better- I have 4" ones on mine and they will still release if the machine is badly off balance such as when a comb blows.
It will help when tipping out at the end
I would get a few coats of varnish on it for a wipe clean finish.
Consider extra blocks under the leg mounts and/or above the wheel mounts to get extra height
That way you can extract and double-seive straight into a big settling bucket and not have losses through transferring to more containers.
Good stand though- nice work.
 
Locking wheels pretty much essential -buying a 4 pack from eBay is cheaper than buying three singles.It will be dancing round the room without them.
Bigger the better- I have 4" ones on mine and they will still release if the machine is badly off balance such as when a comb blows.
It will help when tipping out at the end
I would get a few coats of varnish on it for a wipe clean finish.
Consider extra blocks under the leg mounts and/or above the wheel mounts to get extra height
That way you can extract and double-seive straight into a big settling bucket and not have losses through transferring to more containers.
Good stand though- nice work.
Thanks for the varnishing tip. I'll do that straightaway.

Good point about space for strainers and a large bucket. In fact these are 100mm / 4 inch wheels and the bottom of the gate is 525mm from the ground. Ample for the largest buckets that I can lift.
 
My Thornes utilitarian plastic 9-frame electric radial sits in a frame purchased as an extra. I added wooden blocks, with castors beneath, to raise the tap above the height of a honey bucket. Works well and less weight to carry each piece separately across the garden from my bee shed.
 

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A big thank you to all those who contributed to this thread - a quick bodge to use up some spare 18mm ply, sized so that it goes through our narrow doors. Wheels from B&Q, the front 2 lock. Proof of the pudding in a couple of days, but much more manoeuvrable.



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Looks good but if the frames are unbalanced does it try to move around and you need a steadying hand until some of the honey is extracted to even up the weight. Does it start or try to waltz around or foxtrot - a sort of strictly come extracting. Now there's an idea for a new series. The powers that be will likely lead it to a sticky end......
 
Looks good but if the frames are unbalanced does it try to move around and you need a steadying hand until some of the honey is extracted to even up the weight. Does it start or try to waltz around or foxtrot - a sort of strictly come extracting. Now there's an idea for a new series. The powers that be will likely lead it to a sticky end......
Time will tell! The castors protect the floor from damage by the feet, and its lots more mobile, unloaded it's fine - let you know in a week or two if it's "Amazing", or not.
 
My konegin is mounted on a rectangle of ply with a castor at each corner, the extractor legs are long enough to fit my buckets underneath sitting on the ply - so if it "walks" a bit the bucket goes with it! The depth of the strainer means I only ⅔ fill a bucket initially then top up from another.
 

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