I think fundamentally it depends if you think you will want to run single box nucs (in which case BS is great) or double brood box nucs (or higher!) in which case Maisemore (or Abelo if you are rich) is probably the best option.
+ it’s main USP should be working better.I think fundamentally it depends if you think you will want to run single box nucs (in which case BS is great) or double brood box nucs (or higher!) in which case Maisemore (or Abelo if you are rich) is probably the best option.
I can imagine the bees being a bit upset as those Bonds did used to bounce a bitI think I will be placing an order with Paynes for more polly nucs with the extension boxes as seem to be doing well for overwintering... and nicely move up to full colonies in the spring.
Definiteyl do not like top feeders of any make, all seem to neither take enough syrup ( which spills) or hold enough fondant.
Wish Paynes would make a "handle grip space" on the full brood extension... vaseline the meeting edges helps to prise the boxes apart with a flat hive tool.
Paynes should give me a 60+ loyalty card... remember driving down to Hassocks from Croydon in Grandad's bond mini 3 wheeler... with me on the way back holding onto a box of less than happy bees!
The bs nucs I have have had the middle dividers discarded and are now just like an expensive not quite so good maisemore nuc.I agree, but then all the poly nucs are well made.
Interesting to check out the idiosyncrasies of the competition: tweaks that seemed useful at the design stage but not so much down the road and in the field.
The Park 5-frame box was one of the first on the market years ago and it's only real drawback is the letterbox entrance. Closing a disc entrance is far easier, but the mould has been paid for... I forget who, but someone here filled the slots and fitted discs, but that stopped the use of the removable floor, useful for cleaning. Box arrives painted, which is an asset, and it can be converted from National to Lang easily.
Maisemore is a 6-frame box that can be extended by supers and brood boxes, and has a Miller top feeder.
Paynes 6-frame box has an internal feeder which is not ideal; Paynes realised that and now offer a Miller feeder as an optional extra, as well as supers and broods. The boxes can sometimes be bought cheaply in sales.
BS aimed to iron out the flaws of the above and also produce a flexible box: the twin entrances and divider enable 2-frame splits to be made, the most economical in resources.
Sometimes bees abscond from one half to the other (presumably smelling pheromone via the mesh floor), and sometimes they chew through at the top ends of the divider, but although I've had a few where one side fails, generally they work well. BS plan to improve the Correx divider with one that's more rigid.
The feeder plughole allows fondant to be fed to a 6-frame in winter. The Maisemore supers and broods fit the BS, though cutting off the Maisie runners is necessary to maintain beespace.
Thorne stock other designs but I've no experience of them, nor the new Abelo model and nor the well-priced Bee Equipment 6-frame, divisible and convertible into National & Lang. So far, I reckon the BS is the best of the lot (get your BKA to buy a pallet and the price drops to £34) but if you choose it stick to it (nothing more irritating than having three designs) and paint it outside and in the feeder. Masonry paint is recommended routinely, but Murray McGregor suggests gloss, which bonds to the poly and lasts longer.
No reverse ( Grandad only had a motorcycle licence) and the first one had to be kick started!I can imagine the bees being a bit upset as those Bonds did used to bounce a bit
I see your point Finman: that space is restricted at a time when it's needed.If you have a 3 frame nuo in Spring, its build up is painfully slow.
You do not understand the point. But you do what you do.I see your point Finman: that space is restricted at a time when it's needed.
A few of our 3fs that lost one half to wasps had the divider taken out two weeks ago and combs given to upgrade to 6f. They looked pretty full of bees.
Reckon the trick is to upgrade 3f nucs to 6 with comb early in spring before they have a chance to get cramped for space.
Two routes: use 3f nucs in summer and expand to 6 by autumn, or make up late and over-winter as 3f nucs. Only way to find out if over-wintering is a useful route is to find out.I can see uses for a 3 frame nuc, but I personally don’t like it.
Uses less resource to get each mating done and makes use of more QCs. If there are more than one on a frame I let the bees decide, but the best QCs go alone.You mean, because you can use more of your queen cells, and tear down fewer of them? Or something else? Thanks