Woodworm

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Otleybee

House Bee
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Messages
153
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Location
Otley, West Yorkshire
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
3
I have discovered woodworm in the rafters of my garage which I am proposing to treat with an insecticide. My workshop is set up in the garage and it is where I assemble all of my beekeeping hives and frames. I will obviously have to move all of my beekeeping equipment out of the garage for a while but for how long.

Any suggestions on the best product to use for killing the woodworm would be appreciated.
 
I have discovered woodworm in the rafters of my garage which I am proposing to treat with an insecticide. My workshop is set up in the garage and it is where I assemble all of my beekeeping hives and frames. I will obviously have to move all of my beekeeping equipment out of the garage for a while but for how long.

Any suggestions on the best product to use for killing the woodworm would be appreciated.

I used to have a woodworm riddled cottage. I was bought several tubes of woodworm killer. Nothing specialised as such just the bog standard stuff you get off the shelf at focus. It has a tiny nozzle and the instructions say spray each indevidual flight hole - meaning bore hole. This penetrates the wood around it. The sight of the hole apparently means its already left so all your doing is getting it deep into the wood to get others that may be around it. What followed was amazing. Not a dead woodworm in sight but for the next year, yes year, every spider, earwig, woodlouse, fly, bee or anything that crawled or walked in that area where I had sprayed, died. I would be sitting eating dinner and a spider would just drop off the ceiling, wiggle a bit and dead. For several weeks I would come down in the morning to piles of dead would lice. So my advice would be, remove anything that you can, and plastic sheet the lot with cheap plastic dust cloths from focus. Then spray it to death. Cling film it to reduce spread, then carefully bin anything that it came into contact with it.

Im sure there will be bee safe stuff but others will tell you about that. Good luck
 
Most woodwormiecides are pyrethrin bases, an isomer of or similar molecule, work by preventing oxygen transferr thru the spiracles... originally isolated from Crysanthemums.


Precautionary principle would dictate that such stuff should be kept as far away from bees as physically possible.............................
 
All wood worm killers/insecticides will be harmful to all insects, have a look for the tell tail sines of sawdust this will show if they are still active, you can use the old type creosote, but use with all the protection gear. ?

John bee-smillie
 
Our loft was treated for woodworm about 35 years ago. (Think rafters about 0.5metres square).

There are no insects in it today.. and when I added extra loft insulation - a job which took 4 days of crawling through holes in walls... I was covered in dust and cobwebs but not one spiders' web. There were lots of wasps' nests under the eaves.. small ones. All were dead.
 
easy, done thousands of roofs with the stuff,

buy a can of what ever sort of chemical you are going to use, lets say either the stuff from tool station or cupronol, i take it you do not need a gaurente, if so you need to call a company

the main thig to do is to clear all the dust and cob webs off the timbers as we want to treat the timber not the dust. we used to brush down all the rafters first, then we would put the chemical into a garden pump up sprayer and then spary every thing so its well covered, then if we had isulation we would then start at one end rolling the fibre glass back bruch the ceilig joists off then spray them and then roll it back and then roll the over way and then brush and spray them.

if you have a open ceiling just dust ever thing off then spray it all.

the usual clevate applies about wearing a great dust mask as we dont want to kill use off and put all the gear outside, leave it open for the day to vent every thing off then put it all back at night and it would not effect the bee equipment as it wont be covered in chemicals

most wood worm treatments work by poisioning the woods surface and they dont penitrate to far in. the way it works is that as part of the wood worms life cycle it turns from a wood worm to a bug and in doing so it burrows its way all most to the surface digs a little cavitiy and pupates it then bites its way out of the timer to then fly off to start again, so going in and coming out it nibbles of toxic wood.

if i remember rightly there was some form of herbal treatment that was based on Boron but it was a while since i sprayed a ceiling out. even so there are better chemicals to use than white spirt based suff we used to used water based as it was less smelly and cheaper , we used to buy a litre of chemical and add it to 25 litres of water

you can buy a chemical that is just wood worm killer or what we used to call dual, which used to do rot as well as worms.
 
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