Winter losses 2009 -10

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Stiffy wrote:It is very easy to jump to conclusions

As that comment was made under a copy of my prebvious post, I would say that I do not jump to conclusions.

All I said was 'what do you expect'? That means you might not be surprised if they are a bit chilly. Metaphors all along the line, of course.

Just consider the probability of a local queen being up to the local climate, compared to an import from a distant shore. Which one is more likely to have the right 'jeans' to keep warm, not over-brood late into the autumn etc? Surprise, surprise, you came to the same conclusion as me!

Imported queens are often bought from people who either export or import; they have one thing in mind. Profit. Some may be far better than others when supplying queens and offer suitable ones only. Some (most ) sales-people only accentuate the advantages of their particular 'brand' while not even mentioning the down-sides.

I have seen on this site where a salesman wrote that he would not supply bees to an inexperienced beekeeper unless he was satisfied they could cope with them properly. Then supplied a new beek who didn't have a clue. Ethics? Possibly none.

I said queen stock needs very careful consideration. Finman said the same and that it can take several years to do it. New beeks simply get what the salesman is selling. Local bees are at least that; they may be a mixture but should be, or have a better chance of being, adapted to survive in this particular environment.

It is not just temperature. Length of autumnal 'tail', wet and miserable rather than crisp and dry, warm spells followed by frosty cycles. Just depends on which way the wind blows, literally!

Does the new starter want bees which need re-queening every year? I think not.

Does the new starter want docile bees? You bet they do!

Are my bees docile enough for a new starter? Some are and some might not be. I started with mongrels which 'followed' and still have some. No winter losses yet that I am aware of, but that could change. I haven't looked at some hives for the last two weeks or so. I do not open them until the weather is suitable, unless they heft light.

The one problem Britain has is bees cannot now survive easily 'in the wild' and that was caused by human activity. Importing more mites/viruses/beetles, etc will not help the situation. I choose not to use imported queens. My choice. I will not be responsible for unsuitable genetic diversity (which will fail in the long run, for sure).

New beeks don't have the experience to sort out all their priorities.

Go back just a century and a half and beekeepers relied on swarms every year - to replenish stocks killed for the crop. There were plenty available. Now nobody wants a swarmy stock. Shame. If all our bees had that trait, there might be enough bees for all new starters and more non-beekeeping people might have experienced bees swarming, a natural occurrence all those years ago.

Regards, RAB
 
Can you explain what a swarm board is please? Also if using this set up is it still possible to feed the lower colony fondant? :cheers2:

Yes this is similar to my swarm boards except I put my entrances in the corner and will often put a closeable 2nd entrance in the lower section so when the board is being used for swarm control I can bleed bees from one colony to the other.
Feeding fondant ismore difficult to the lower colony and will involve lifting off the swarm board inserting an low eke and setting the fondant in this.
I would not usually have to do this as I would have chosen a strong colony with adequate food supplies to house the weaker colony above.
Alan
 
Hi members,
I mentioned earlier about studying the queens prior to taking them into winter. I have normally 2-3 spare mated queens in Nuc's ready for an emergency such as described in this thread. I have spoken to others who have lost colonies and a few forgot to remove the QE from stores above the cluster, one guy had the queen move up into the super full of honey and she had laid some brood all drone I might add. There is definitely something wrong with a queen that can pass through a QE I think she must have been malnourished in some way:puke: not a big fat juicy queen. so there 's another point regarding queens make sure they are well fed. I still believe that more attention should be made of the queen and her habits going into winter, its just no good enough to say I saw eggs so everything must be OK.

Regards;
 
Hi members,
I mentioned earlier about studying the queens prior to taking them into winter. I have normally 2-3 spare mated queens in Nuc's ready for an emergency such as described in this thread. I have spoken to others who have lost colonies and a few forgot to remove the QE from stores above the cluster, one guy had the queen move up into the super full of honey and she had laid some brood all drone I might add. There is definitely something wrong with a queen that can pass through a QE I think she must have been malnourished in some way:puke: not a big fat juicy queen. so there 's another point regarding queens make sure they are well fed. I still believe that more attention should be made of the queen and her habits going into winter, its just no good enough to say I saw eggs so everything must be OK.

Regards;

I do not undertand how ....what....
The hive winter normally even without the queen.

If somebody "forget" the excluder, it need not much studying.



.
 
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Hi Members,
Stiffy, you mentioned that a lady beekeeper has given you some advice about changing your queens every 2 years. WHY? I have queens that are three coming on 4 years old and they are still doing the business, so why would I have to change them every 2 years? If your queen is working Ok after 2 years then why change her for possibly a duffer. I change my queens when and if I see there is some abnormality in the laying cycle. Also I watch very carefully the temperament of my bees and as long as they are behaving as I want then I leave alone why interfere? Just on the say of other beekeepers. I am not for one minuet saying your friend is wrong if it suits her style of beekeeping I know and understand why beekeepers change queens on a 2 yearly basis.

Regards;
I am not saying the advice was correct but was given when I questioned her about winter losses and why some colonies survive and others don’t. She was saying that she believed that the main reason for winter losses was 'old' queens and that to ensure the survival of a colony a new queen would have a better chance. She also said that we are putting them under strain with the chemicals we are using, something I have noticed with some colonies when being treated they change character and the queens often go off laying.
Hope this clarifies a little?
Cheers
 
Elderly queens are bad?

There are various things being discussed here.

Wintering with the excluder in is not good as there is a risk of the cluster tayiing below with the Queen who cannot move up through the excluder.

Older queens are/were deemed to be a higher risk as they were not so prolific as young queens and so had a smaller colony to take into winter. Whether there is any truth in that I have no idea. Ask a scientist.

Personally I looked for older queens as I was interested in proven over wintering and would not graft from queens younger than two winters. Some times I was happy in the spring as the "old codger" was there and sometimes I was disappointed. Such is life with live stock.

Should beginners expect stocks that are very quet and non stingy? Not if said stocks cannot over winter. In the UK in this quite unpredictable climate then over wintering ability has to the first and foremost in importance of traits.

A dead colony gathers no honey. That is for sure.

PH
 
She also said that we are putting them under strain with the chemicals we are using

And i would agree with her,especially regarding oxalic acid.
 
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I would say that wintering succes depends on beekeepers skill.
There exist a normal dead rate what ever skill the beekeeper has.

57 Finnish beekeepers sent samples last spring from 265 dead hives .
- 51% had nosema. Pure Nosema apis cases were 7% and others mixed ceranae+apis. It was identified too that varroa made big losses in bee yards.

Some winter an experienced beekeeper may have big losses which will not repeat again.

Pure N. cereana losses are expanding, our beekeeping researcher Seppo Korpela forecasts.
 
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Bee races and strains


Seppo Korpela is in an international research and he has weighed 3 different beetypes' winter food consumption.

During 4,5 month hives have lost weight 1.10 - 15.2 :

Carnica Bantin... 5 kg
Carnica Lunz..... 7 kg
Macedonica..... 10 kg

We have still 2,5 winter months ahead.

http://www.mtt.fi/bees/jokioinen09_10.htm


.
 
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Carnica Bantin ?
Is that the stock of a breeding group ?
 
Carnica Bantin ?
Is that the stock of a breeding group ?

Google translation may reviel:

The Varroa tolerance mating station Unije in Croatia in 2005 by the
Beekeeping Center Bantin again both for the queen-rearing as well as to
Mating of queen bees Carniolan used. In contrast to conventional
Receipt points, where the drones nations prior to the application of a strong Varroabekämpfung
were subjected to untreated people come here
used.

http://www.lallf.de/fileadmin/media/PDF/tierzuch/ZR_Bienen_05.pdf
 
Stiffy wrote:It is very easy to jump to conclusions

"As that comment was made under a copy of my prebvious post, I would say that I do not jump to conclusions.

All I said was 'what do you expect'? That means you might not be surprised if they are a bit chilly. Metaphors all along the line, of course.

Just consider the probability of a local queen being up to the local climate, compared to an import from a distant shore. Which one is more likely to have the right 'jeans' to keep warm, not over-brood late into the autumn etc? Surprise, surprise, you came to the same conclusion as me!

Imported queens are often bought from people who either export or import; they have one thing in mind. Profit. Some may be far better than others when supplying queens and offer suitable ones only. Some (most ) sales-people only accentuate the advantages of their particular 'brand' while not even mentioning the down-sides.
"
I am sorry if the comment about jumping to conclusions was taken as a personal comment it wasn't meant to have been directed to you but just a general observation. As an ecologist I am very reluctant to believe that one strain British, Italian, Hawaiian or mongrel has the wonder genes we are all looking for.
With this in mind, I do doubt the validity of your statement that imported bees find Britain a bit chilly. When I considered buying Carniolians I sourced the origins of my queen to the mountain region of Greece somewhere decidedly chillier than Britain unless I was to keep them on the top of a Scottish mountain. I too worry about the unintentional import of disease and pests and am fully aware of the commercial nature associated with bee keeping.
I have one hive of Carniolians which are lovely bees to handle, good honey producers , have wintered exceptionally well but have a tendency to swarm and produce ill tempered progeny. The swarming is a nuisance but can easily bee handled and I will hopefully be taking advantage of this trait to form new colonies with local queens this year. Once the queen gets a little old I will look to replacing her probably with a local queen but I would be very happy to buy in a new queen of the same origin and having similar genes.
I am also tempted to buy some Mellifera Mellifera which I have seen advertised just to see if they are the ideal British bee or is it just a myth?
 
Stiffy,

validity of your statement that imported bees find Britain a bit chilly.

There lies the problem. People just don't read what is written; they read things into it, or read it incorrectly, or try to requote using different words. Look again, more carefully this time, and you will see I did not say that.

There is a small (two letter) word you obviously missed. The word 'if'.

Please don't change the context of my post; it is worded quite carefully, thank you very much.

It wasn't taken as a personal comment but a lot of others might have mis-read it as that.

Well done, you obviously know enough not to pick a bee in tea shirt and shorts for the British climate. How many others never give it a thought and never ask the pertinent questions? A lot, I think. There are a lot out there who are probably not even aware that the queen heading their nuc was an import.

RAB
 
Point taken, it is very easy to be taken out of context by email or on a forum.
Beleive it or not I do try and reply with the best of intentions and do consider carefully what I put to paper.

Cheers





Life is rather like a tin of sardines - we're all of us looking for the key.
Alan Bennett
 
The problem that I have found with some strains of bee,particularly those crossed with Italians is that they consume stores at a prodigeous rate compared to the so called native bee- if such a creature now exists.The small dark strains seem to be much more thrifty,also seem more tolerant of lower temperatures.When I lived down south (central midlands) I had several colonies of yellow bees-beautiful to look at but lazy,spent all their time raising brood at the expense of my honey crop.They required a huge amount of feed to get them thro' the winter and often appeared quite weak in late winter/early spring .Winter losses were always minimal because this was well before the advent of Varroa Destructor and associated viruses.I'm certain that most of the colonies that I have lost recently have been infected with some sort of virus as a result of varroa attack.I have seen no obvious sign of nosema or acarine mite but have seen trembling bees and crawling bees.I once thought they had been poisoned but,as our local farming scene is based on beef and dairy cattle with a tiny amount of Oilseed Rape the spraying of pesticides doesn't happen.My bees are always fed to capacity and I only take honey if there is an obvious surplus.
 
If they had nosema ceranae there would be no outward signs,no dysentry,and even with apis there is often no outward signs like dysentry.
some more about it in the links below,but there is plenty more on the web as well.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nosema_ceranae

http://www.beesfordevelopment.org/info/info/disease/nosema-ceranae-a-new-thre.shtml

The trembling and crawling bee's sound like paralyses virus,which you already state you think your bee's have or have had.

http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~msbain/elbka/Diseases/Chronic Bee Paralysis Virus.htm
 
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