Which ones do you prefer

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Curly green finger's

If you think you know all, you actually know nowt!
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Afternoon, I'm at present making hive body's and frames both from maisemore and thornes.
Maisemore you don't need metal runners and thornes you really do, which ones do you prefer? (hive body's)?
Thanks
C. G. F
 
I recently put both together. I found the joints in the Thornes were slightly tighter and needed a slight tap with a hammer to get them in but since I use castellations in both, the raised edge in the Masies ones make no difference.
 
Thornes frames and boxes are always cut to really tight tolerances and often need a bit of paring or sanding to fit neatly.
I've always preferred Maisie's although I saw off the bevelled 'built in' runners and use metal ones for the broods but prefer them in conjunction with castellation s in the shallows.
 
Thornes frames and boxes are always cut to really tight tolerances and often need a bit of paring or sanding to fit neatly.
I've always preferred Maisie's although I saw off the bevelled 'built in' runners and use metal ones for the broods but prefer them in conjunction with castellation s in the shallows.
Aye I've found this out if your not careful with the thornes boxes the joints can split when your putting them together.
Also finding the maisemore to be sawn better not so ruff on the edges etc.
Taking a delivery at some point from a different supplier of hive boxes looking forward to seeing what there like.
 
Aye I've found this out if your not careful with the thornes boxes the joints can split when your putting them together.
Also finding the maisemore to be sawn better not so ruff on the edges etc.
Taking a delivery at some point from a different supplier of hive boxes looking forward to seeing what there like.
You not buying from Hedgerow any more?
I thought you were making your own too.
 
You not buying from Hedgerow any more?
I thought you were making your own too.
Yes John has changed suppliers and I'm making some nuc boxes and mini nucs, crownboards and floors from timber which has been milled here.
In the workshop again today
 
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I've always preferred Maisie's although I saw off the bevelled 'built in' runners and use metal ones for the broods but prefer them in conjunction with castellations in the shallows.
I use castellations in all boxes but the latest Thornes are of such thin metal they bend/buckle out of shape. Not able to make my own. Any idea where to get better quality ones - 10 & 11 slots. Usually use Wynne Jones but his are usually Thornes anyway.
 
I use castellations in all boxes but the latest Thornes are of such thin metal they bend/buckle out of shape. Not able to make my own. Any idea where to get better quality ones - 10 & 11 slots. Usually use Wynne Jones but his are usually Thornes anyway.
Maisemore's ones are nice and thick, but for better value Simon the Beekeeper. bought a boxful off him a few years ago to replace the flimsy and sharp ones I had from Beehive Bits
 
I use castellations in all boxes but the latest Thornes are of such thin metal they bend/buckle out of shape. Not able to make my own. Any idea where to get better quality ones - 10 & 11 slots. Usually use Wynne Jones but his are usually Thornes anyway.
That's surprising I've found that the latest Thornes ones are very stiff. I think they have 2 grades as they sent me the ones for their 1st once and I had to cut the ends off to make the fit in my 2nds.
 
That's surprising I've found that the latest Thornes ones are very stiff. I think they have 2 grades as they sent me the ones for their 1st once and I had to cut the ends off to make the fit in my 2nds.
Why bother just Mark the centre of where the frames go on the top edge of boxes no need to use the castilations. Photo bellow is for 10sIMG_20210730_104037.jpg
 
Why bother just Mark the centre of where the frames go on the top edge of boxes no need to use the castilations. Photo bellow is for 10sView attachment 30033
I'd soon get fed up spacing them by hand with a pencil mark to work from - but, thereagain, I'm not a proper beekeeper like you ...
 
I'd soon get fed up spacing them by hand with a pencil mark to work from - but, thereagain, I'm not a proper beekeeper like you ...
Once there in place know need to keep spacing them after there propolised in place, it's not as if you need to go through the super frames KISS
 
Once there in place know need to keep spacing them after there propolised in place, it's not as if you need to go through the super frames KISS
No ... but you need to go through the brood box underneath and by the time I've got 6 or 7 supers on top of the brood box the supers are coming off at 45 degrees to get at the brood box. All the frames move together under the weight of honey in the frames, squishing bees in the process and I would need a step ladder to re-space the frames when I put the supers back on ... but, I'm only 5'11" and not a proper beekeeper so ... I'l bow to your superior technique ...
 
No ... but you need to go through the brood box underneath and by the time I've got 6 or 7 supers on top of the brood box the supers are coming off at 45 degrees to get at the brood box. All the frames move together under the weight of honey in the frames, squishing bees in the process and I would need a step ladder to re-space the frames when I put the supers back on ... but, I'm only 5'11" and not a proper beekeeper so ... I'l bow to your superior technique ...
I've never seen you have that many supers on your brood boxes :laughing-smiley-004.
No need to egxadurate what would happen not worthy.
Apologies Im full of Guinness and blackcurrant
 
No ... but you need to go through the brood box underneath and by the time I've got 6 or 7 supers on top of the brood box the supers are coming off at 45 degrees to get at the brood box.
Same we here.
I’m a shortarse at 5’2” I’d definitely need a ladder. Castellations are so much easier
 
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