What did you do in the 'workshop' today

[Parsonage Bees]

Looks interesting. I presume the outer sheath isn't live?

Pretty sure, Not going to try it.

 

[Sutty]

Pretty sure, Not going to try it.

Not got a meter?

 

[JamezF]

Oh, go on... Lick it and see

James

 

[Penninetrader]

It cuts 5.5mm hardwood ply quite easily. That's as thick as I've tried so far. I'm told by someone who has done a bit more experimentation that it will cut 18mm solid softwood too, and even the likes of solid 18mm oak or walnut if you take a couple of passes at it. The tricky bit is balancing the speed and power of the cut to avoid excessive charring.

James

That does sound interesting

 

[Richard]

It cuts 5.5mm hardwood ply quite easily. That's as thick as I've tried so far. I'm told by someone who has done a bit more experimentation that it will cut 18mm solid softwood too, and even the likes of solid 18mm oak or walnut if you take a couple of passes at it. The tricky bit is balancing the speed and power of the cut to avoid excessive charring.

James

Have you got air assist? I found with my low power laser when I was cutting thin ply (with many passes) it was much less charred when I botched up a jet of air pointing at the cutting point. (I say botched as I used a cheep airbrush compressor and the nozzle from a 3D printer to give a fine jet of air).

 

[Sutty]

Makes me wonder what a flow of argon around the cutting point (like tig welding) would do, preventing oxidation.

 

[JamezF]

Have you got air assist? I found with my low power laser when I was cutting thin ply (with many passes) it was much less charred when I botched up a jet of air pointing at the cutting point. (I say botched as I used a cheep airbrush compressor and the nozzle from a 3D printer to give a fine jet of air).

I have, yes, and it certainly does help. I've read suggestions however that some of the commercially-available air assist systems really don't move enough air even so. I saw one person who had connected up their compressor and was feeding air at 20 psi to the laser unit. I just need more practice first though. Once I've got things as good as I feel I can get them, then I'll worry about that sort of stuff.

James

 

[Newbeeneil]

Made up a new roof for my “Honey For Sale” advertising WBC as the ply has delaminated under the steel roof.
The new roof is deeper to allow inclusion of my second camera which should give a better view of my honey shelves.

 

[Sutty]

I have, yes, and it certainly does help. I've read suggestions however that some of the commercially-available air assist systems really don't move enough air even so. I saw one person who had connected up their compressor and was feeding air at 20 psi to the laser unit. I just need more practice first though. Once I've got things as good as I feel I can get them, then I'll worry about that sort of stuff.

James

I presume the laser is in a closed unit with interlocks you prevent firing it when it is open?*
I occasionally work around medical lasers and there are lots of precautions, sometimes excessively so based on the evidence.
Do you know what wavelength in operates at?

*though being able to cut branches off at a height (beware aircraft) or take out the tyres of a nuisance neighbour would be fun

 

[JamezF]

I presume the laser is in a closed unit with interlocks you prevent firing it when it is open?*
I occasionally work around medical lasers and there are lots of precautions, sometimes excessively so based on the evidence.

(Like almost everything these days) It's made in China, so safety isn't major concern

There's a light shield around the laser module though and it only clears the workpiece by a couple of millimetres so light leakage isn't too bad. I've made a deep enclosure for the unit so that it isn't possible to look into the laser at an angle that would allow direct viewing of the beam. I also wear suitable protective goggles when using it, though I'm tempted to swap those for a "window" in the enclosure made from suitable shielding material, partly because wearing goggles and glasses at the same time is uncomfortable and partly because the smoke extraction would work better with a completely sealed enclosure.

I will at some point soon engrave a sign that I can put on the workshop door when I'm using the machine that says "Do not look into laser with remaining eye".

Do you know what wavelength in operates at?

455nm, it says in the specs. So nicely in the blue end of the visible spectrum.

James

 

[Sutty]

(Like almost everything these days) It's made in China, so safety isn't major concern

There's a light shield around the laser module though and it only clears the workpiece by a couple of millimetres so light leakage isn't too bad. I've made a deep enclosure for the unit so that it isn't possible to look into the laser at an angle that would allow direct viewing of the beam. I also wear suitable protective goggles when using it, though I'm tempted to swap those for a "window" in the enclosure made from suitable shielding material, partly because wearing goggles and glasses at the same time is uncomfortable and partly because the smoke extraction would work better with a completely sealed enclosure.

I will at some point soon engrave a sign that I can put on the workshop door when I'm using the machine that says "Do not look into laser with remaining eye".



455nm, it says in the specs. So nicely in the blue end of the visible spectrum.

James

The holmium lasers we use are  much lower power generally, and we all have to wear laser glasses despite the laser energy being absorbed in <20cm!
There was an 80w+ green light laser (532nm i think) in use that worried me as the dichroic filter glasses wouldn't work beyond a given angle. (Slightly shorter wavelength than yours i think). Thankfully we stopped using it before I refused to be involved! I had a demo video which showed the light from the laser guide passed straight through.
I saw a report detailing the experience of a patient hit in the eye by a mW laser (don't know what wavelength) which involved major loss of sight, described as a popping sensation then looking through a goldfish bowl of blood & oil.
BE CAREFULL!

 

[Lottie]

My counter top fridge (warming cabinet) with a 75 watt tube heater thernostatically controlled to 45 degrees took the better part of 48 hours to melt a 30 lb bucket .. in fairness it was quicker melting set jars but as I only jar up as I sell and having invested in the Lidl jam maker it went to the tip. The jam maker is smaller to store and does a better, quicker, job. No brainer for me.

I've just found the lidl one 2nd hand. Do you fill the urn with water and set the thermostat to 30°? How about the timer?

 

[pargyle]

I've just found the lidl one 2nd hand. Do you fill the urn with water and set the thermostat to 30°? How about the timer?

Yes - it must have water in it. I tend to put the bucket in first and then add water until it surrounds the bucket (make sure the trivet is in the bottom of the jam maker). I set the thermostat to about 42 degrees to melt buckets - that gives a honey temperature inside the bucket of about 35 degrees so you are not overheating it. On the right hand dial you can set it to be on continuously (you will see the infinity sign on the digital display). Overnight with a stir will do the job usually depending on the honey, some take a little longer some a bit less.