What did you do in the 'workshop' today

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Following on from gmonag's extractor base I started to make my own last night. However rather than going for a sheet of ply which I did consider I've gone for 63 x 75mm construction timber so it gives me more space to store 'stuff' under the extractor. Also the extractor weighs 40kg empty so I needed something solid. Plus the castor mounts are 60mm wide

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In hind sight I probably should have made the effort to create a half lap joint as well.

I've just put the first coat paint as well and then it decided to start raining just after I had finished it
 

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I buy mine from the £ shop, they were quite cheap but I can't for the life of me remember what I paid!
 
I buy mine from the £ shop, they were quite cheap but I can't for the life of me remember what I paid!

I was thrown out of the one in Weymouth once..
I kept holding things up and shouting 'how much is this please!' :icon_204-2:
 
Made a 1 litre contact feeder from a 1 litre icecream tub (Strachans Honeycomb icecream ex Aldi) and a small square of aluminium mesh plus some 5 minute Araldite..

Ice cream: ex Aldi - same size as Mackays in Morrisons.
Aluminium mesh - ex car firbreglass repair kit - repair kit - Local Car accessory shop

Drill - or cut - 2cm hole in lid of tub.
Affix larger square of mesh to inside of lid..(not outside or it may fall off)

Job done.
 

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Made a 1 litre contact feeder from a 1 litre icecream tub (Strachans Honeycomb icecream ex Aldi) and a small square of aluminium mesh plus some 5 minute Araldite..

Ice cream: ex Aldi - same size as Mackays in Morrisons.
Aluminium mesh - ex car firbreglass repair kit - repair kit - Local Car accessory shop

Drill - or cut - 2cm hole in lid of tub.
Affix larger square of mesh to inside of lid..(not outside or it may fall off)

Job done.
Araldite what's that madasafish, a type of glue?
And there's me been buying contact feeders.

I've got some 3ltr jar feeders of my grandads he made.
I've had the mesh coming of the lids, there metal lids.
Any advice on what I could use to stop the mesh coming of
 
Made a couple of folding hive stands. They'll be handy for putting nucs on and I can also use one next to my main hives for stacking supers on when I inspect. Plus they'll fold up flat when not needed. They're based on the ones sold by Bee Equipment (which are currently out of stock), only apricot instead of green because that's the only colour paint I had left ☺
2020-08-30 19.02.06.jpg
 
Made a couple of folding hive stands. They'll be handy for putting nucs on and I can also use one next to my main hives for stacking supers on when I inspect. Plus they'll fold up flat when not needed. They're based on the ones sold by Bee Equipment (which are currently out of stock), only apricot instead of green because that's the only colour paint I had left ☺
View attachment 21889
They look good. A winter project, I think. What measurements did you use?
 
Hey E&M,
The measurements will vary a bit depending what thickness of timber you use. I bought three 2.4m lengths of 47mm x 38mm and one 2.4m length of 47mm x 22mm from Wickes, which cost me just under £20 and made two stands.
The top of the stand is made from two 600mm lengths, with two 370mm cross bars fixed between them. The four legs have angles cut top and bottom which you'll have to cut according to your own stand, but mine are 235mm long (angles cut off of a 250mm square ended length). The cross braces on the legs used the thinner, 47mm x 22mm timber, and are 530mm long. I had to play around a bit with the exact positioning of the hinge points of the legs so that there would be room for them to fold up neatly, but they ended up with the fixing point being about 80mm in from the ends. Hopefully the dimensions on the image will give you a rough idea.

stands with measurements.jpg
 
Hey E&M,
The measurements will vary a bit depending what thickness of timber you use. I bought three 2.4m lengths of 47mm x 38mm and one 2.4m length of 47mm x 22mm from Wickes, which cost me just under £20 and made two stands.
The top of the stand is made from two 600mm lengths, with two 370mm cross bars fixed between them. The four legs have angles cut top and bottom which you'll have to cut according to your own stand, but mine are 235mm long (angles cut off of a 250mm square ended length). The cross braces on the legs used the thinner, 47mm x 22mm timber, and are 530mm long. I had to play around a bit with the exact positioning of the hinge points of the legs so that there would be room for them to fold up neatly, but they ended up with the fixing point being about 80mm in from the ends. Hopefully the dimensions on the image will give you a rough idea.

View attachment 21914
Fantastic! Thank you. I will definitely make up a set over the winter.
 
I've been tidying up my garage and I found a box of frame parts I didn't know I had ... how does that happen ? How could I forget enough parts to make up about 50 frames ? And I also found ...

I am foundationless so I cut the wedges off the underside of the top bars - I have a problem - I know - I can't abide waste ... but what do you do with a couple of hundred wedge strips ? There is only so much paint you can stir, glue you can apply or seedlings you can stake ....

I'm running out of ideas and short of therapy appear destined.
 

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Made more ekes and clearer boards ready for next season.
 
I've decided to move my hives from one apiary as it doesn't really perform but am keeping it as my isolation apiary for swarms and hives that go catsh!t crazy. So am putting together a dummy hive from old components to put there.
 
Following extraction and while setting up to run the honey from the extractor through a double filter it occurred to me that during a previous session a fly entered the work room and flew through the annular gap into the honey bucket.
I'm thinking how much better it would be if plastic/stainless steel disc with an off centre aperture sized to support the fine mesh part of the filter (say about 400mm dia) was produced instead of the extendable support arms.
 

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