Testy Bees parting Double Brood

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That makes no sense

That means, that you force the bees enlange their brood area. Normal advice is that you add second brood box under the first box. When second box is half full brood, you swap brood boxes.

If you do as you said, it will happen that you push existing brood to the coldest place of the hive and you loose perhaps 30% out of brood.
 
That makes no sense

That means, that you force the bees enlange their brood area. Normal advice is that you add second brood box under the first box. When second box is half full brood, you swap brood boxes.

If you do as you said, it will happen that you push existing brood to the coldest place of the hive and you loose perhaps 30% out of brood.
Nonsense
 
Great answers from others here another method is queen excluder between boxes keep queen in bottom box each visit move open larva and eggs up and put sealed brood and empty comb down

I only wonder why? Excluder splits the brood space. If you do not invent anything else to do...
 
Have you tried using a thin smear of petroleum jelly (eg vaseline) on the top edges of the bottom BC and bottom edges of top BC and also on the lugs of the frames (having scraped them clear of existing propolis ? ) Less likely to stick together and easier to free with hive tool.
 
I overwintered my two hives on a brood and a super. One of the shallow boxes was a poly Swienty, and they were building brace comb between it and the wooden brood box even though both are bottom bee space. Last week I swapped the poly for a wooden box, hopefully that sorts it!

It would make life a lot easier on brood and a half to only have to inspect the top box as people are suggesting. My main concern at the moment is how on earth I'm going to find the queen when I need to do an AS.
 
My main concern at the moment is how on earth I'm going to find the queen when I need to do an AS.

Many methods are available, some being mentioned on another thread as we speak.

Personally, where possible and necessary, I move the hive boxes to another stand (separately is fine) and put a new box (nuc, whatever) on the original location to give the foraging bees somewhere to sit around while I am working. Then wait 5-10 mins. This bleeds most of the foragers out of the brood boxes, which makes it far far easier to find the queen.

If that fails, and there are charged cells, I resort to the emergency backup approach described here:

Swarm control and elusive queens - The Apiarist
 

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