Supersedure to delay swarming?

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If a supersedure using an introduced queen cell is successful the virgin may kill the existing queen on emergence. This would then result in a brood break whilst she matures and gets mated. The brood break might reduce the tendency to swarm, at least for a while.
 
For sure! But there is obvious utility in finding out first if others have tried it before and have conclusive results.
I've only used it a few times to change the genetics and they didn't swarm later on. My queens usually last between 3 to 4 years, then I requeen them. But my first attempt at supersedure requeening was unsuccessful.
 
I've only used it a few times to change the genetics and they didn't swarm later on. My queens usually last between 3 to 4 years, then I requeen them. But my first attempt at supersedure requeening was unsuccessful.
Can I just get clarification please: Later-on, they didn't swarm? Or their swarming was no later than usual?
Thanks for the info :)
 
They didn't swarm at all that season. I mark all of my queens, so I know what is happening inside the hive.
Well that is super interesting. I know its a small sample-size, but I thought if it had an effect it would be that they swarm later rather than not-at-all. Thank you.
 
I have a nuc that has been queenless raising EQCs, I also have a hive of veil-bangers. I'm tempted to put a spare EQC into the veil-banger hive, but I'm aware that it's an emergency queen from old bees and it's late in the season.
Hmm.....
 
Similarly, the much vaunted theory that first year queens will not swarm ... is also unreliable.
I was under the impression that it is not the queen who "decides" to swarm anyhow, but the colony at-large who respond to various conditions including strength and distribution of queen pheromones (mandibular and tarsal) and brood (Juvenile ie Ocimene, vs the older brood blend) and will then prep the queen according to their needs: Lots of jelly for egg-laying, latest Hollywood diet for swarming.
 
I have a nuc that has been queenless raising EQCs, I also have a hive of veil-bangers. I'm tempted to put a spare EQC into the veil-banger hive, but I'm aware that it's an emergency queen from old bees and it's late in the season.
Hmm.....
We are half way through August, there is still plenty of time. Alternatively make an extra nuc, then in March go into the veil-banger hive, find and kill the queen, then straight away add the nuc. This was something that Peter Little would do. Or the Brother Adam method, cage a laying queen and add her to a hive that has been dequeened a few minutes before. She will be accepted within a few hours of introduction, this is also practiced by Michael Palmer. A queen that is laying and has completed a few cycles and not a bought in queen.
 
I was under the impression that it is not the queen who "decides" to swarm anyhow, but the colony at-large who respond to various conditions including strength and distribution of queen pheromones (mandibular and tarsal) and brood (Juvenile ie Ocimene, vs the older brood blend) and will then prep the queen according to their needs: Lots of jelly for egg-laying, latest Hollywood diet for swarming.
Yes ... that's true ...it's not the queen who dictates swarming - the committee ... but, in the vernacular, there is the myth that first year queens don't swarm (perhaps if I inferred that it is the queen's decision it was my poor use of English). You only have to ask a few on here who have had new queens in nucs swarm on occasions to know that this rule does not hold true ... another beekeeping myth !
 
Yes ... that's true ...it's not the queen who dictates swarming - the committee ... but, in the vernacular, there is the myth that first year queens don't swarm (perhaps if I inferred that it is the queen's decision it was my poor use of English). You only have to ask a few on here who have had new queens in nucs swarm on occasions to know that this rule does not hold true ... another beekeeping myth !
Yeah I have no doubt that there are plenty of such myths and I will likely fall foul of a few on my journey. The one thing that I do keep in mind including with questions like the one I posed here, is that it's rarely a yes/no thing but more often a game of averages and even then, dependent on circumstantial factors that we may not be aware-of or able to control.

In my mind, "Yes, that works" is Lingua Beeka for "85% of the time, in my part of the world and with my bees" which would make it something very much worthwhile trying in other circumstances, but not a guarantee.
 
Yeah I have no doubt that there are plenty of such myths and I will likely fall foul of a few on my journey. The one thing that I do keep in mind including with questions like the one I posed here, is that it's rarely a yes/no thing but more often a game of averages and even then, dependent on circumstantial factors that we may not be aware-of or able to control.

In my mind, "Yes, that works" is Lingua Beeka for "85% of the time, in my part of the world and with my bees"
Yes ... if you are being generous .... but a lot of the time it might be 50% on a good year with my bees in my part of the world ... but not every year (but we will keep the failures a bit quiet :))
 
Yeah I have no doubt that there are plenty of such myths
Well it's only a myth if it's couched in terms of an absolute rule. It's fairly sound that young queens are less likely to swarm than older ones - unless of course you have a swarmy strain in which case it's a free for all.

ITLD offered some stats on this forum previously, not sure if they were pulled from his own operation or had an outside origin, showing a marked increase in swarming of second year queens.
 
Well it's only a myth if it's couched in terms of an absolute rule.
“Only the Sith deal in absolutes”

Wait, sorry, wrong forum!

Seriously though, I would be surprised if there weren’t some reason why young queens swarm a bit less: if they are considerably more pheromone-tastic than even a 2yr old for example.

But we know there would be a brood break, she may be extra stinky, and if young queens run-around more then her tarsal pheromone will be widely spread, to name a few possible contributing factors to think about.

I don’t know that I want to get too invested in HOW induced superseding might delay/reduce swarming before establishing that it really does, though.
 
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I was under the impression that it is not the queen who "decides" to swarm anyhow, but the colony at-large who respond to various conditions including strength and distribution of queen pheromones (mandibular and tarsal) and brood (Juvenile ie Ocimene, vs the older brood blend) and will then prep the queen according to their needs: Lots of jelly for egg-laying, latest Hollywood diet for swarming.
The density of bees in the area is another factor often overlooked, like ourselves, if there's jostling for space or not enough forage to go around, it's time to move on.
 
The density of bees in the area is another factor often overlooked, like ourselves, if there's jostling for space or not enough forage to go around, it's time to move on.
Yeah, even if they seem to have plenty of space overall, I believe the brood box can become overcrowded with young nurse bees for the amount of brood. There may be room where they could go, but they don’t.
I think that is a pheromone thing: the queen’s various substances not getting spread far or fast enough through a high population density of worker bees.

My current understanding is that swarming is their response to a serviceable queen and suitable conditions. Those being incoming pollen, plenty of stores, time of year (day length and temperature) plenty of brood, but lack of queen pheromone despite the queen being prime. ie surplus of bees in the brood area.

Removing brood pheromone from that equation theoretically turns it into more of a supersedure situation than a swarming one. In fact, one study I read where supersedure was induced, showed that the new queen was herself superseded very quickly in many cases (not all)
Perhaps because with the brood-break you have set-up those exact conditions?

Not sure if I can find that study anymore, but I’ll edit this and include a link to where I am getting my info re pheromone balance when I get home tonight, if it’s a decent source it may be useful to others.

Edit: One source I liked because of the diagram
https://scientificbeekeeping.com/the-primer-pheromones-part-4-reproduction-and-survival/
 
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I think that is a pheromone thing: the queen’s various substances not getting spread far or fast enough through a high population density of worker bees.

thats suits more to one of the supersedure reasons not swarm , both are different and caused for different reasons so no relationship between swarm and supersede

if you read all swarm control methods are talking about 2 things : separate puppae brood from broodnest and give space mid-age bees draw combs both these 2 increase in broodnest the larvae brood pheros so if you suceed with supercede as you say and manage do a brood break that means less larvae brood pheros inside broodnest while you want the opposite to ''stop'' the swarm,to stop mid aged bees poppulations increased by holding more nurses into longer nursing life and do no jump up fast into mid age life and by pushing mid age bees into pollen foraging life

but i think title of post is wrong cause you talking more about requeening every year all queens so as less the chances swarm during that season , thats not a swarm control method more is a different year mangment approach used mostly by pollinators but may also means of loosing your best Qs on their best ages for honey crop
 
thats suits more to one of the supersedure reasons not swarm , both are different and caused for different reasons so no relationship between swarm and supersede
Meh, if everything else is good, space etc, then surely both are gonna be regulated by the balance of pheromones, in particular brood, juvenile and Queen.

if you read all swarm control methods are talking about 2 things : separate puppae brood from broodnest and give space mid-age bees draw combs both these 2 increase in broodnest the larvae brood pheros so if you suceed with supercede as you say and manage do a brood break that means less larvae brood pheros inside broodnest while you want the opposite to ''stop'' the swarm,to stop mid aged bees poppulations increased by holding more nurses into longer nursing life and do no jump up fast into mid age life and by pushing mid age bees into pollen foraging life
What pheromones are prevalent when and how they all work is new to me and I am still getting my head around it so I am not confident in my assessment at-all even within what is known to science.
But broadly I was I was under the impression that all the swarm control methods ease congestion in and around the brood-nest and make the colony smaller overall.
Tying both together, I am aware of a study that showed swarm cells being made on the edges of the frame was prevented if they smeared queen pheromone there and the conclusion was that in a crowded nest the mandibular pheromone doesn't disseminate fast enough and she is not walking there to spread tarsal pheromone. Both of those being required to prevent swarm cells being built.
Wish I had downloaded it, and trying to find it again now. But you've definitely given me something to think-about.


but i think title of post is wrong cause you talking more about requeening every year all queens so as less the chances swarm during that season , thats not a swarm control method more is a different year mangment approach used mostly by pollinators but may also means of loosing your best Qs on their best ages for honey crop
WAIT, so you are saying this is actually something that is done on a mass scale?? How am I only now hearing this?

Here is one source I found useful:
https://scientificbeekeeping.com/the-primer-pheromones-part-4-reproduction-and-survival/
 
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