Stc 1000

[Swarm]

Explain what you want to do to an electrician and have it done safely, is the best advice I can give.

 

[colinc]

Explain what you want to do to an electrician and have it done safely, is the best advice I can give.

Where’s the fun in that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Poly Hive]

It saves the break dancing and subsequent funeral.....I got mine wired up using youtube vids. One of which (note the one) was actually useful. this was a few years ago so it may be better now. Not looked since as it's still working well. Accurate bit of kit too as I use a digital thermometer with a probe at the end of a wire to check the temp. Usually it's within a degree or two.

PH

 

[Millet]

I have had it simplified by a good forum member, when i get it up and running i will add a picture of the finished product, if the poop does hit the fan and i manage to fry it i will order another and get a relative to wire it for me as he is pretty hot with electronics.

 

[Beefriendly]

It saves the break dancing and subsequent funeral....

Yeah and weekly dealing with hives with 50,000+ homicidal bees (occasionally) is any safer?
It ain't rocket science wiring one.

 

[linoleum bonypart]

I used an underfloor heating stat non digital and it was easy

 

[oliver90owner]

Probably, but still confused, will check back. Thanks. Back to the thread I have never heard of a contactor aand have just installed an stc1000 so will see how it goes. Also connected a lamp to test if the heater is switching on & off. Put the stc 1000 in a plastic tub per the pics. My osr honet is now setting, taken off 2 weeks ago so hopefully can soon go in the 'fridge'. Then I have to decide whether to seed or just jar...or both!

Putting the unit “in a plastic tub” is stupid if mains voltages are involved. There are stupid people on u-toob who put up unsafe instructions and stupid people who follow those idiots blindly.

But, there are Darwin awards available for those types. Perhaps better for the rest of us if they removed themselves from the gene pool. But there are others to consider.

Use a proper enclosure and do the job properly, as well, is my advice.

 

[For want of a better word]

Re the STC1000 thermostat.

Have had problems with the integral * 10A relay welding together contacts if 220 V put through them ( Arc welds together?)
Solution is to have a 12V PSU ( and use a STC1000 12v unit) and run a 12v operated 220 V relay to switch the heater...... although as relay is voltage free a 220V unit can be used.

My modified Apimelter uses 220V STC stats, but can be set so so that relay powers up when temperature reached so that relay is not energised continuously during heating cycle ( ie set to cooling cycle not heating cycle)

Also these are cheap


eBay item number:
273169140867
Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.

12V comes in own bespoke plastic box

need to set up against calibrated thermometer ( I use an NPL mercury in glass to calibrate my standard calibrating thermometers).

generally the units are good for +/- 0.1 degree!!... but only over a close range =/- 5 degrees ( eg 34 set point accurate from 29 to 39 degrees.

set up and wait to stabalise, note value given, readjust up or down to give corrected reading.

 

[Millet]

Wired thanks to BeeFriendly instruction and it works a treat, two single connector block are all you need and a set of three connector blocks for the heating element to be wired too i will take some pictures when i get time.

 

[Beefriendly]

Now you just need one of these to use after partially melting in your new warming cabinet and perfect soft set honey...

 

[Beefriendly]

Re the STC1000 thermostat.

Have had problems with the integral * 10A relay welding together contacts if 220 V put through them ( Arc welds together?)

Really..?
I have 2 controlling 2 warming cabinets. Both have worked fine for several years with 240v switching on live input.. Perhaps it's the Cornish Poldark effect or you have been buying from cheap UK internet sites. I got mine from those rip off Chinese sites

 

[Millet]

Now you just need one of these to use after partially melting in your new warming cabinet and perfect soft set honey...

Does Abelo have them ?.. i have put the unit in a old sky TV box to hide all the wires and connections just to basically tidy it up, the two power supplies are on the left and the heating supply and temperature probe are on the right, i will probably replace the 3x connector block for a plug socket later, that way it is a mobile unit that can be used anywhere in any cabinet..

 

[Beefriendly]

Does Abelo have them ?..

Thornes...Or an old potato masher.
Nice job BTW.

 

[Millet]

Thornes...Or an old potato masher.
Nice job BTW.

It took some getting my thick heed around it but i got there in the end.. .. instead of one of them spud mashers can i not use one of those plasters paddles in reverse on a cordless drill.

Edit to add like this stainless one.

 

[Beefriendly]

You can.....but they need to be run slow or you get too much air in the honey. And if you run them slow...they get too hot and burn out...unless you buy a plasters drill designed to run at slower speeds.

 

[linoleum bonypart]

Don't let the head break the surface introducing air

 

[Millet]

You can.....but they need to be run slow or you get too much air in the honey. And if you run them slow...they get too hot and burn out...unless you buy a plasters drill designed to run at slower speeds.

You can get the heavy torque drills for cheap from screwfix i may look into it, i could even make a cradle for it to sit on and use a segmented timer you have my head spinning now..

 

[Jambo]

Really..?

I have 2 controlling 2 warming cabinets. Both have worked fine for several years with 240v switching on live input.. Perhaps it's the Cornish Poldark effect or you have been buying from cheap UK internet sites. I got mine from those rip off Chinese sites

I agree - the voltage shouldn't be an issue, the current could be. What size (W) of heaters are people using?

 

[Anduril]

Re the STC1000 thermostat.

Have had problems with the integral * 10A relay welding together contacts if 220 V put through them ( Arc welds together?)
Solution is to have a 12V PSU ( and use a STC1000 12v unit) and run a 12v operated 220 V relay to switch the heater...... although as relay is voltage free a 220V unit can be used.

My modified Apimelter uses 220V STC stats, but can be set so so that relay powers up when temperature reached so that relay is not energised continuously during heating cycle ( ie set to cooling cycle not heating cycle)

Also these are cheap


eBay item number:
273169140867
Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.

12V comes in own bespoke plastic box

need to set up against calibrated thermometer ( I use an NPL mercury in glass to calibrate my standard calibrating thermometers).

generally the units are good for +/- 0.1 degree!!... but only over a close range =/- 5 degrees ( eg 34 set point accurate from 29 to 39 degrees.

set up and wait to stabalise, note value given, readjust up or down to give corrected reading.

https://youtu.be/2NGkUTA7R10 Something like this, read the comments section.

 

[Millet]

What is the maximum wattage of heater that can be used with these controllers... and what wattage heating element would you use in a standard fridge.. i have ordered 2x 45watt heaters to be on the safe side.. it is more economical in a insulated box to heat it up quick and turn off automatically rather than have a low wattage heater on for longer hours trying to warm it back up..

I have searched the net for the information i require but it keeps coming up with home brew forums which batter my head.