Stc 1000

[Beefriendly]

Here is the finished product N ..wired parallel of coarse .. it will not warm up though ??? ..i plugged the fridge in and then plugged the STC1000 in all i get is the fridge buzzing away and neither fridge nor thermostat will reach there temperature..where have i gone wrong ? . i was so confident my contraption would work..

You need to use a the stc1000 to switch on a heater..light bulb etc. If the fridge is switching on youve wired up the wrong device,

 

[Anduril]

Here is the finished product N ..wired parallel of coarse .. it will not warm up though ??? ..i plugged the fridge in and then plugged the STC1000 in all i get is the fridge buzzing away and neither fridge nor thermostat will reach there temperature..where have i gone wrong ? . i was so confident my contraption would work..

If you are working on hot and cold. Is the tube heater and the fridge plugged in through the STC1000? When the heater reaches temperature the relay cuts out and the cold relay cuts in. Really you only need to have the heater relay working and the fridge unplugged.

 

[Millet]

You need to use a the stc1000 to switch on a heater..light bulb etc. If the fridge is switching on youve wired up the wrong device,

No the fridge power supply is not wired to the STC1000 it is plugged into the wall socket..

 

[Uncle Betty]

Here is the finished product N ..wired parallel of coarse .. it will not warm up though ??? ..i plugged the fridge in and then plugged the STC1000 in all i get is the fridge buzzing away and neither fridge nor thermostat will reach there temperature..where have i gone wrong ? . i was so confident my contraption would work..

Millet, unless you're doing something different to what I assume you're attempting -

- the fridge is simply an insulated box. No need to power it. It's just a good convenient way to conserve the heat energy you're generating, because it will retain heat for you, as well as it retains the cold it was designed to.


The light bulb/heater tube etc is controlled by the stc. The stc can 'read' the temperature, and will switch the 'lamp/heater tube' on or off according to your settings. That is the switch which is built into the stc, that you can see in diagrams already posted.


The reason some people recommend a contactor is that this internal switch in the stc can 'arcweld' itself. So instead of the stc powering your heating device, you set it up so that is powers the coil of a contactor instead. When the coil is energised, it's an aelectromagnet, and pulls in contacts, which are just like big switches that can take the load that the stc seems sometimes not to. These contacts are then your switch to the heating elements.

So you would then need a supply to the stc, which you can consider a control circuit. And a supply to the contactor, which is your power circuit.


The reason I gave you Ohms Law is so that you can figure out the answer to your question...

(10A rating for the stc) x ( Your domestic supply voltage, say 220V) = the number of watts your stc can handle. In theory. Don't load it to that, ever, for safety's sake. Back to the arcwelding again.


The reason I referred to 'series or parallel' is... if you have more than one heating element and you wire them is series, when one fails, the whole thing fails. Pointless. In parallel, one can fail and the other can still receive power and operate.

 

[pargyle]

No the fridge power supply is not wired to the STC1000 it is plugged into the wall socket..

The fridge is just an insulated box, you don't need the fridge mechanicals at all ... the fridge electrics need to be disconnected - or removed altogether ... the wiring for the STC and tube heaters is completely separate - on its own - with it's own wire to the plug socket.

My fridge warming cabinet was completely dead when I got it - I removed the fridge motor etc. completely. In fact, it was a fridge freezer and I've got the old (small) freezing cabinet at the top for just warming a few jars and the bottom when I need to do tubs. One heater in each of the two compartments ... more than enough heat from one. And ... you really DO need to get rid of the glass shelf.

OOps

Looks like Uncle Betty just beat me to it ...

 

[Uncle Betty]

The fridge is just an insulated box, you don't need the fridge mechanicals at all ... the fridge electrics need to be disconnected - or removed altogether ... the wiring for the STC and tube heaters is completely separate - on its own - with it's own wire to the plug socket.

My fridge warming cabinet was completely dead when I got it - I removed the fridge motor etc. completely. In fact, it was a fridge freezer and I've got the old (small) freezing cabinet at the top for just warming a few jars and the bottom when I need to do tubs. One heater in each of the two compartments ... more than enough heat from one. And ... you really DO need to get rid of the glass shelf.

OOps

Looks like Uncle Betty just beat me to it ...

Indeed, but some people will be more receptive to your delivery than to mine, I'm sure ! That is to your credit.

Been out of that game for a long time now, but share your sentiments re site safety. Saw a man fall to his death on a site, about '87. Terrible stuff, so unnecessary.

 

[Millet]

The fridge is just an insulated box, you don't need the fridge mechanicals at all ... the fridge electrics need to be disconnected - or removed altogether ... the wiring for the STC and tube heaters is completely separate - on its own - with it's own wire to the plug socket.

My fridge warming cabinet was completely dead when I got it - I removed the fridge motor etc. completely. In fact, it was a fridge freezer and I've got the old (small) freezing cabinet at the top for just warming a few jars and the bottom when I need to do tubs. One heater in each of the two compartments ... more than enough heat from one. And ... you really DO need to get rid of the glass shelf.

OOps

Looks like Uncle Betty just beat me to it ...

Thank you for your help and advice Phillip (wrong name unsure) ... anyway i know what i am dong..

 

[Millet]

Millet, unless you're doing something different to what I assume you're attempting -

- the fridge is simply an insulated box. No need to power it. It's just a good convenient way to conserve the heat energy you're generating, because it will retain heat for you, as well as it retains the cold it was designed to.


The light bulb/heater tube etc is controlled by the stc. The stc can 'read' the temperature, and will switch the 'lamp/heater tube' on or off according to your settings. That is the switch which is built into the stc, that you can see in diagrams already posted.


The reason some people recommend a contactor is that this internal switch in the stc can 'arcweld' itself. So instead of the stc powering your heating device, you set it up so that is powers the coil of a contactor instead. When the coil is energised, it's an aelectromagnet, and pulls in contacts, which are just like big switches that can take the load that the stc seems sometimes not to. These contacts are then your switch to the heating elements.

So you would then need a supply to the stc, which you can consider a control circuit. And a supply to the contactor, which is your power circuit.


The reason I gave you Ohms Law is so that you can figure out the answer to your question...

(10A rating for the stc) x ( Your domestic supply voltage, say 220V) = the number of watts your stc can handle. In theory. Don't load it to that, ever, for safety's sake. Back to the arcwelding again.


The reason I referred to 'series or parallel' is... if you have more than one heating element and you wire them is series, when one fails, the whole thing fails. Pointless. In parallel, one can fail and the other can still receive power and operate.

You have me now.. i wondered why the xmas tree lights do not work when a bulb blows..