Split extractor.

[SteveJ]

I have a heavy duty extractor originally bought from a certain beekeeping supplier at rand. The white nylon barrel has developed a 1 inch split near the honey valve. Is there any way to repair it. It is only leaking very slightly. Or is there somewhere I can get a replacement?

SteveJ


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[jenkinsbrynmair]

I have a heavy duty extractor originally bought from a certain beekeeping supplier

When you say originally bought - how long ago was that? if it's only slightly split, try a bit of glue. Otherwise I'd say it would be as cheap to buy a new one as trying to ge a spare part which is most of the setup.

 

[REDWOOD]

Repair of buy new barrel ?
Take it to a body repair garage and ask them to plastic weld it like they do with car bumpers
Or drill a hole at the end of the split to stop the split "travelling" and use clear epoxy.
you might have to remove the gate valve before attempting the repair so a new seal is advisable

 

[MartinL]

Repair of buy new barrel ?
. . . . . . . . . . . . drill a hole at the end of the split to stop the split "travelling"

Then drill small holes along the sides of the split. Sew it together with wire loops through the holes, then use a glue gun to seal it up.

Simples!

 

[VEG]

Make sure whatever you use is classed as food safe.

 

[farbee]

I repaired a similar split water tank with a fibreglass repair kit. Still holding (fingers crossed) and has a large volume of water to hold. Google it they are quite cheap.

 

[oliver90owner]

Most water tanks are not classed as food-grade (well, water from them is not usually classed as potable because it may no longer be chlorinated, and could have been stored for some time or accessed by bugs, etc.). That is why there should be one tap, at least, fed from the rising main. Well water users may have alternative treatments.

 

[farbee]

Most water tanks are not classed as food-grade (well, water from them is not usually classed as potable because it may no longer be chlorinated, and could have been stored for some time or accessed by bugs, etc.). That is why there should be one tap, at least, fed from the rising main. Well water users may have alternative treatments.

Thanks for clarifying that. There was me going to use it to store custard. THe fibre class would be on the outside and can be sealed.

Still might not be your best option but just a suggestion worthy of investigating

 

[ratcatcher]

if the split is not under any stress, I would drill a small hole either end to stop it running further, then silicone sealant on the outside with a small piece of milk carton over it,

 

[Dishmop]

Put a strap around it... Metal or plastic.....Even a cheap ratchet strap would work.

 

[oliver90owner]

The problem of all these 'patch on the outside' is that there is now a fissure which can harbour all sorts of pathogens and is connected directly to the inside. While, normally, these defects can be ignored by honey extraction, as honey is very robust in this respect, any problem arising would not be viewed as such by Trading Standards or Environmental Health Departments of the 'bureaucratic' nature.

 

[REDWOOD]

I have repaired plastic by using a soldering iron and carefully knitting it back together

 

[SteveJ]

Thanks for the advice. I've done a bit of research into epoxy fillers and essentially I need a resin that is FDA approved for direct food contact applications.

Now found the same problem near a couple of the leg bolts.

May better to buy a new tub. Anyone know a cheap source?


SteveJ


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