plastic spacers or castellations ?

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I use Hoffman self spacing with 12 frames in supers,
Is it ok to take One out and give a bigger gap ?

Yes.
With fewer frames (I have 10 in my Nat supers) the spaces are initially wider and the bees draw 'fatter' combs which project just above the wood. When you extract you can usually run the knife along the wood and remove just the caps. With 12 frames your caps are probably level with the wood and this makes uncapping difficult.
 
I use exactly the same method as SDM, wide alternate spacers to get it drawn then when they are extracted go in ten frame castellation's, I find nine frame they are drawn out too wide. As a tip when extracting I have a square board with two pieces of inch timber nailed too it, I put super down on this with a bit of force and frames pop up out of the runners saving time.

Pure genius:)
 
just bumping this thread ...

tried a few frames using thumb spacing but when fresh the do tend to slide about if you are taking frames off an on during inspections

the plastic spacers definitely feel a bit more secure ... but is it just experience ?
 
just bumping this thread ...

tried a few frames using thumb spacing but when fresh the do tend to slide about if you are taking frames off an on during inspections

the plastic spacers definitely feel a bit more secure ... but is it just experience ?
I have found that the bees stick them down once they start filling the frames..
 
Self spacing hoffman in the brood box and castellated 10 and 11 in supers. I paint my supers differently so I know what's what. I use plastic spacers as less as possible as they always fall, a real pain!
Ps: and why is my font so small when pressing quick reply?
 
Self spacing hoffman in the brood box and castellated 10 and 11 in supers. I paint my supers differently so I know what's what. I use plastic spacers as less as possible as they always fall, a real pain!
Ps: and why is my font so small when pressing quick reply?

All my frames are the same which are all hoffman but i still space them out by eye in the supers..11 in the wooden supers and 10 in the Abelo poly boxes.
 
I have 100s of SN1 bought in the early days when you were told that you needed all the gimmicks available on the market to be a good beekeeper.... When this lot goes I will look at other options.
 
I have 100s of SN1 bought in the early days when you were told that you needed all the gimmicks available on the market to be a good beekeeper.... When this lot goes I will look at other options.

so these SN1 frames .. so you have to use plastic spacers or castellations or by eye ...

what is your preferred frame then btw ?
 
I have 100s of SN1 bought in the early days when you were told that you needed all the gimmicks available on the market to be a good beekeeper.... When this lot goes I will look at other options.

I was in the same boat, both supers and brood frames. Bought a load of Hoffman converters and slowly converted the lot.
Anyone want a load of plastic ends?

hoffman-converter-clips-100.jpg
 
I was in the same boat, both supers and brood frames. Bought a load of Hoffman converters and slowly converted the lot.
Anyone want a load of plastic ends?

hoffman-converter-clips-100.jpg

No thanks, still got a full box here. I have seen the hive of a new beek last week who was sold a nuc by the association and told to use (it was set up that way when she bought it) DN4 and SN4 with spacers as well.... Quality advice that:winner1st:
 
so I have been using these ...

https://www.thorne.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=plastic&page=3&product_id=1889

is that what you mean (and want to shift ?)

No those are plastic ends which are used as spacers....bugger to get off when extracting frames etc. Hoffmans are self spaced frames by virute of their shape, the plastic converters I showed a picture of are nailed over SN1/DN1 frames to covert them into Hoffman frames (SN4.DN4). No plastic ends needed as they have "shaped sides that space them ...not straight.

s-l640.jpg
 

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