Paynes Poly

[region2]

Cleaning Poly Hives

Cleaning Poly Hives
Just had a talk from the Bee Inspector - he recommends cleaning a Poly hive by scraping off the propolis and other sticky stuff and then 20 minutes contact time in .5% sodium hypochlorite solution (bleach is normally 3% so dilute accordingly). So either a v. big tub for 20 mins or a tray for 20mins per side - a lengthy process...

R2

 

[itma]

Cleaning Poly Hives
Just had a talk from the Bee Inspector - he recommends cleaning a Poly hive by scraping off the propolis and other sticky stuff and then 20 minutes contact time in .5% sodium hypochlorite solution (bleach is normally 3% so dilute accordingly). So either a v. big tub for 20 mins or a tray for 20mins per side - a lengthy process...

R2

Leaving it to soak for less than an hour and a half in total (one side at a time) isn't exactly hard work!



I am curious though.
A couple of folk voted for Beehive Supplies in the poll.
Has anyone on here actually handled their product?
If so, it'd be interesting to hear of some hands-on experience.

 

[Sussex Bees]

I have a couple of the Beehive Supplies hives which are sitting along side a cedar national, I didn't vote in the poll so there are others out there.
The joints are dovetailed and glued with contact adhesive, I painted them with masonry paint.
I'm quite new to this beekeeping lark but I prefer handling the poly and the bees seem happy enough.
View attachment 5881

View attachment 5882

 

[Finman]

Cleaning Poly Hives
Just had a talk from the Bee Inspector - he recommends cleaning a Poly hive by scraping off the propolis
R2

It is sure, that with 20 years scraping the box surface will be in bad condition and propolis will increase on surfaces. Part of propolis is wax and mould will grow in it.

If you take hot water, put lye 3% there and then brush the surfaces. Contaminant will be loosen easily and all surfaces will be sterilized.

Quick way is to handle surfaces with kitchen chemicals like Cillit Bang.
I have tried at least 10 chemicals and Killit is best. You get it from Lidl.

 

[PBee]

If you take hot water, put lye 3% there and then brush the surfaces. Contaminant will be loosen easily and all surfaces will be sterilized.

Any idea of the optimum water temperature? - I am buying a disinfection tank from C. Fritz which has a heating element/thermostat.

 

[Finman]

.
The secret in temperature is wax melting point.
Wiki: Beeswax has a high melting point range, of 62 to 64 °C (144 to 147 °F).

Resin has wax quite much and its structure will be broken.

Lye convert fat and wax to soap, and it will not stick any more to surfaces. You get it off with garden hoast.

Poly surface will be like a new and without scratch.

Pressure washer breaks boxes at once.

If the box feels slippy, it has lye a bit.
You may neutralize it with acid sphagnum peat in the washing water or with acetic acid.
.

 

[Finman]

.
Where to handle?

Make a proper size wooden frame 10 cm high.
Put a plastic sheet inside it and you get a washing pool.
Then pour there hot water 3 cm. If you have insulation board under the frame, water keeps its heat better.

Then pour the lye into garden soil. Nothing bad happens. Lye in water is Na and OH ions and the soil is full oh OH ions. Food salt is Na and Cl ions. Soild neutralize the lye water and it will not even kill plants.

Formula of humic acid.

 

[Red Bee]

Wow that entrance looks massive, it could swallow a whale lol

 

[Finman]

Wow that entrance looks massive, it could swallow a whale lol

I am same opinion if you mean this Sussx Bees picture.
http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=14586&page=7

Hives are not big, and may have a mesh floor. Bees have difficult to quard the opening. But enemies will be killed on combs.

 

[drstitson]

"Wow that entrance looks massive, it could swallow a whale lol"

you beat me to it - looks like they need rat guards let alone mouse guards!!!! you could probably get a badgers' muzzle there too.

 

[The Cumbrian]

Wow that entrance looks massive, it could swallow a whale lol

In my innocence and inexperience I assumed it was the type (Dartington?) That has a "porch" about 4" deep and an entrance slot in what would be the roof of the "porch". If you see what I mean.

As in a document I have seen by Graham White.

 

[Finman]

.
What ever it is it seems that frames and combs are just above it. Wind hits directly to combs.

 

[Sussex Bees]

The opening does look big, but as you can see from this photo the actual entrance is quite small. The slot at the top takes an entrance reducer which can also close the hive up for transport etc.


View attachment 5883

 

[drstitson]

thanks for the clarification.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Ah! got it now - just another slant on the Dartington style under floor entrance I belive - the mesh floor being on a level with the top of the 'ramp' ?

 

[Finman]

.
That is good. that gives strenght to bottom structure.


.

 

[itma]

"Wow that entrance looks massive, it could swallow a whale lol"

you beat me to it - looks like they need rat guards let alone mouse guards!!!! you could probably get a badgers' muzzle there too.

Really?

Is that a problem with all "Dartington-type" (in and up) entrances?
The entrance block slides in horizontally.

Lets see if this picture link works -

 

[Sussex Bees]

Yes the mesh floor is at the top of the ramp, and it is a very sturdy base.

I have 2 very similar size colonies, one in poly and one in cedar. The poly bees are nowhere near as active as the cedar bees at the moment. I'm presuming it is because they are less affected by the temperature fluctuations.

 

[Sussex Bees]

The mouse guard also slides in horizontally, with entrance block.

 

[user 6228]

seems a shame to have all that insulation and the D style entrance then have unrestricted cold air so high into the hive... but is that the mantra of OMF?