Paynes Poly Hive Top Bee Space

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pargyle

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The thin sheet of plastic material that comes with the Paynes Poly Hive as the standard crownboard just sits on the top of the frames. Whilst there are those that like this arrangement (and I'm not here to start an argument about top or bottom bee space) I prefer top bee space. Unfortunately, the only way that this can be easily achieved in these hives is to leave the metal frame runners out - which means the frames just sit on the polystyrene ledge - not ideal.

I've made a number of clear polycarbonate crown boards out of 6mm and 8mm polycarbonate and they are really good - but I hate wasting things nearly as much as I detest spending money - so, today, I made a timber frame for the thin sheet of plastic. Just softwood cut to about 8mm x 15mm and glued onto the edge of the sheet using CA glue (and some activator to save a little time as it gives an almost instant 'grab').

I thought originally that it might need some additional strips of wood across the centre to support the flimsy sheet but it's turned out remarkably rigid with just the frame round the edge, so I didn't bother. The hive roof still sits comfortably on top and it cost next to nothing to make apart from a bit of glue and some waste scraps of timber.

Better than the original (IMO), although it won't be sufficiently robust to cut a feed hole and support a feeder - but I've got thicker polycarbonate CB's that will do that.

Works for me .. and in Dusty's words - You can never have too many crownboards.
 
Thanks for posting this, I'll be doing the same. We have made some wooden crown boards for our hive, but I do like being able to see in.
 
I just put a couple of strips of thin timber on top of the frames and it holds the cover high enough to allow the bees to move over the tops and when the lid is put on it holds down Round all the edges....
 
I prefer top bee space. Unfortunately, the only way that this can be easily achieved in these hives is to leave the metal frame runners out - which means the frames just sit on the polystyrene ledge - not ideal.

I have had two Paynes hives without runners this season. Yes, there is some propolis but it's bearable.
 
I just put a couple of strips of thin timber on top of the frames and it holds the cover high enough to allow the bees to move over the tops and when the lid is put on it holds down Round all the edges....

That's creative ... if it works - don't fix it - gets my approval !
 
... Better than the original (IMO), although it won't be sufficiently robust to cut a feed hole and support a feeder - but I've got thicker polycarbonate CB's that will do that. ...

You can cut a feed hole in it and support the feeder with short strips of wood around the hole (gluing them onto the sheet or just laying them down on the frames) as in this polynuc: https://www.flickr.com/photos/90285495@N08/11192372616/in/set-72157638321917103 (I have mentioned this before as had many others. I also thought you did something similar with a top bar hive (?)).
Kitta
 
You can cut a feed hole in it and support the feeder with short strips of wood around the hole (gluing them onto the sheet or just laying them down on the frames) as in this polynuc: https://www.flickr.com/photos/90285495@N08/11192372616/in/set-72157638321917103 (I have mentioned this before as had many others. I also thought you did something similar with a top bar hive (?)).
Kitta

Yes ...I've got 6mm clear polycarbonate crownboards with feeder holes and covers over the holes which I can use for feeding and will probably put on for overwintering. This was a bit of an experiment to see if I could use the rather thin sheet supplied with the hive ... and it seems fine. Like Dusty says - you can never have too many crownboards and I hate wasting things.
 
this is my third year with a crown board like that and it works well. I have a hole in it which is 3 bee spaces and use a super with kingspan cut exactly to shape to fill the super.
In the middle over the hole I have a transparent inverted takeaway container full with fondant throughout the winter.
I have the original P@ynes roof and had to take a dremel to it to get a snug fit.
 
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I have found the Paynes 'flimsy' coversheets to be very useful … for sealing a stack of unused boxes against wasps, etc.

I've made some 'clear' (ish) framed coversheets in a similarly simple fashion.
I cut 460mm squares from a small sheet of twinwall polycarbonate (conservatory roof glazing?). The £8 sheet from B&Q is big enough to provide 2 national (or 14x12) covers with an offcut big enough to yield a cover for the Paynes polynuc. B&Q's pine stripwood (10.5mm x 18mm) made the simple frame.
The bees aren't in the least bothered about this departure from precise beespacing.
I sealed the open ends of the twinwall with aluminium (greenhouse) sticky tape.

Seems to have worked very well indeed (despite, rather than because of, my workmanship!)
 
I have found the Paynes 'flimsy' coversheets to be very useful … for sealing a stack of unused boxes against wasps, etc.

I've made some 'clear' (ish) framed coversheets in a similarly simple fashion.
I cut 460mm squares from a small sheet of twinwall polycarbonate (conservatory roof glazing?). The £8 sheet from B&Q is big enough to provide 2 national (or 14x12) covers with an offcut big enough to yield a cover for the Paynes polynuc. B&Q's pine stripwood (10.5mm x 18mm) made the simple frame.
The bees aren't in the least bothered about this departure from precise beespacing.
I sealed the open ends of the twinwall with aluminium (greenhouse) sticky tape.

Seems to have worked very well indeed (despite, rather than because of, my workmanship!)

That will work ... good idea ... easy to make and you also get the benefit of the twin wall insulation properties !
 

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