Moving large hive

[pete_allotments]

Dera Forum,

I'm having issues with the location of my beehives.
I need to move a hive, and am looking for advice.
I have a hive with a brood and 3 supers, which is to heavy and bulky for me to lift when strapped tight as a single unit.
The hive would be "closed" at bight, and then moved early the following morning.
I understand the issues of transferring in parts from the hive stand to the "car" for transportation - as this will allow bees to escape.
I will move the hive 4 miles from the current location, leave there for 7 days, then move to a new location (which is 1 mile from the current location) - so it has to be 2 moves.

What advice does the forum have for moving the hive?
Thanks for any comments.

 

[philipm]

The 3 yard 3 mile rule doesn't always have to be followed have a look on the forum how others have done it , you could get away with just one move.

 

[ericbeaumont]

issues of transferring in parts from the hive stand to the "car" for transportation - as this will allow bees to escape.

Can't follow this, Pete.

I'd put a floor under each box, travel screen on top, seal & strap after flying has finished and put them back together at the other end.

Suggest you wait longer than a week before returning; two should do it.

 

[pete_allotments]

Can't follow this, Pete.

This was about splitting the hive during transportation.

I thought I had to move the hive as a complete unit strapped together - didn't know you could split the hive with floor and roof on each section. Was worried that bees would loose their connections to the queen.

It's looking as it I'm having to move the hives "quickly"
When would you do the move?
rebuild and seal hive in the evening - and then move to new location and unstack?
or rebuild and seal in the evening, and move early next day?

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

clear the bees down from the supers, simples

 

[fast_muchly]

Im a novice really . But yeah why not use a clearer board ( rhombus type ) day before move and cram them all in the lower part , then take of supers and hey presto . Virtually as above has explained .

 

[ericbeaumont]

clear the bees down from the supers

cram them all in the lower part

Depends on colony strength, but this would work if supers are light. If rammed, risky as boxes can overheat and colonies die quickly (done it several times).

split the hive with floor and roof on each section

Travel screen safer, though if you travel early in the morning and it's cool, they may be fine.

rebuild and seal in the evening, and move early next day

Preferable, as you're working in increasing light.

Double bonus: you may get a good sunrise and a Full English on the way home.

 

[drex]

The OP is moving these hives 4 miles only. I would put rhombus clearer boards on later in day one day. Early next day take supers off, water spray top of brood box and slap crown board on. I would not worry about a travel screen for 4 miles if they have an OMF.
Put the two separate stacks in car, rebuild at destination and let them fly.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Depends on colony strength, but this would work if supers are light. If rammed, risky as boxes can overheat and colonies die quickly (done it several times)

not very hard to think of putting an empty super above the brood box, clearing them all down then moving immediately. a broodbox and empty super packed with bees is doable, I usually end up moving a handful of colonies like this most seasons.

 

[Newbeeneil]

This got me thinking. If I had to do it I think I would make an eke about 2" deep and drill a dozen or so 1" holes in it which I would cover with varroa mesh. Then when you force the bees out of the supers via a clearer board the bees can fit in the eke with a good air flow.

 

[Hedgerow Honey]

As Jenkins says,
Clear into an empty super, remove then wait for flying to finish, foam entrance & move, no screen required for four miles.
I will only screen If travelling during the day, or say maybe to Scotland or Kent , anything local early hours of the morning.

 

[Jimmy]

I moved an apiary of 12 hives last May, including some double brood hives with up to 3 supers. Early May 2021 was cold and damp (< 10°C), so no dawn or dusk shenanigans and cold enough that the bees were almost clustering. I removed supers, crownboard top and bottom and strapped them. The brood boxes were strapped and foam in the entrance. I was only moving them 10 minutes down the road so no over heating concerns whilst in transit. Once at the new location hives were reassembled and foam removed.
It's certainly doable, just takes some planning. If you're ready with the smoker, quick both with lifting off of supers and sealing top and bottom I don't think you'd lose many bees if you split the hive early one morning.

 

[Gilberdyke John]

Dera Forum,

I'm having issues with the location of my beehives.
I need to move a hive, and am looking for advice.
I have a hive with a brood and 3 supers, which is to heavy and bulky for me to lift when strapped tight as a single unit.
The hive would be "closed" at bight, and then moved early the following morning.
I understand the issues of transferring in parts from the hive stand to the "car" for transportation - as this will allow bees to escape.
I will move the hive 4 miles from the current location, leave there for 7 days, then move to a new location (which is 1 mile from the current location) - so it has to be 2 moves.

What advice does the forum have for moving the hive?
Thanks for any comments.

I would enlist a friend with a 4x4 open back truck (think of the indestructible top gear Toyota) and between the two of you transport in one piece? Alternatively a trailer behind a car would probably work but the bees would have a bumpier ride. (Beer vouchers could well be required)

 

[ericbeaumont]

a hive with a brood and 3 supers, which is to heavy and bulky

How full of bees are these boxes, Pete?

 

[CLB]

We moved our bees 2.6 miles on Friday evening. We’re not experts, but thought moving at night was preferable to the morning. As the temperature outside cools overnight, we reasoned the bees were less likely to was to investigate, until morning.

To move the hives my husband strapped them tightly, then used a chair-stack moving trolly as we had to negotiate steps en-toute to our van. We moved four colonies like this, starting with the smallest, ending with the largest.

At the new site we set out the largest first, then opened one entrance at a time having put a chicken wire cage containing sticks over it. Very few bees came out, all was calm. The next morning all four hives were flying, but no bees flew home to the boxes we left in their old spots.

Best of luck for your move. As you’re seeking advice and thinking it through so well, I’m sure it will go as smoothly as possible.

 

[plain_hunt]

I’ve moved mine a mile away and had no problems with returning bees. I moved them in the evening, put some green grass in the entrance to seal it, stuffed it tight! Moved them, pulled out some of the grass and left the rest to die. Put a bushy branch across the entrance as well. Might have helped that the two places were very different.

 

[pete_allotments]

How full of bees are these boxes, Pete?

Eric,

Both hives have well stocked brood, and supers have a reasonable number.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

The plans are....
Currently building rhombus boards, to be installed tonight at about 8pm, on the QE to empty the supers
at the same time, will close up the entrance of each hive, with grass and tape.
In the monring, at about 7am, will remove supers, and put board on top. Then double strap hives, from OMF to board.
Will put in back of truck (it's a double cab with covered flatbed), and move new site.
Unpack, and rebuild hives, remove tape, ensure grass and twigs in opening.

Does this sound sensible?
Are there any better ideas??

Thanks again to you all for your comments.

 

[ericbeaumont]

remove supers, and put board on top

You could leave the clearer boards in place and jam the exit holes with a twig. If you take the boards off to put a lid on, bees may take to the air and you'll leave a few behind.

Rhombus escapes have holes that will allow ventilation, which is useful, and that'll be one less job to do.

Are you going to add an empty super under the clearer boards?

 

[pete_allotments]

You could leave the clearer boards in place and jam the exit holes with a twig. If you take the boards off to put a lid on, bees may take to the air and you'll leave a few behind.

Rhombus escapes have holes that will allow ventilation, which is useful, and that'll be one less job to do.

Are you going to add an empty super under the clearer boards?

Thanks for the reply.

I was going to leave rhombus clearer escapes on, and put a board on top of them (rather than a full roof). I wasn't removing the clearer board until hives were at new site.
There wouldn't be a super under the clearer board.
Trying to get it all clear in my mind, so I don't have to think when I'm moving hives.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Eric,

Both hives have well stocked brood, and supers have a reasonable number.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

The plans are....
Currently building rhombus boards, to be installed tonight at about 8pm, on the QE to empty the supers
at the same time, will close up the entrance of each hive, with grass and tape.
In the monring, at about 7am, will remove supers, and put board on top. Then double strap hives, from OMF to board.
Will put in back of truck (it's a double cab with covered flatbed), and move new site.
Unpack, and rebuild hives, remove tape, ensure grass and twigs in opening.

Does this sound sensible?
Are there any better ideas??

Thanks again to you all for your comments.

sounds like a plan to me

Rhombus escapes have holes that will allow ventilation

but they will be inside the hive and you've just blocked the hole with a 'twig'
A bloody big twig as the hole is usually an inch or two in diameter!