Jigsaw or circularsaw

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Thats great. Its a really efficient way to work!! Max no of nucs for minimum wastage!!:yeahthat::serenade::party::)
 
Someone seems to be suspicious by their absence????

Just to follow-up on bpmurray and plenty of honey, I use a very similar online program available at optimalon.com

You have to register but then you can set up all your panels (I have all the sizes set for 14x12s, shallows and nucs). You then just put in your panel size. I make all my kit from WBP ply which is then additionally coated with diluted PVA and an outdoor paint for roofs or with multiple coats of outdoor wood stain - red cedar naturally ;-)

You can set how you want them cut. If Goran can find a wood yard with a panel cutter you can just give them the cut plan - the advantage of using a program like this or the one bpmurray found is that it minimises both wastage and the number of cuts. I normally just select an two stage XY cut to make the panels a little smaller to take home from the wood yard and then finish the cuts at home either using a table saw or a track saw which is like a circular saw but deliberately no riving knife - it does mean I can just put a sacrificial sheet on the floor, set the plunge depth to marginally over the width of the sheet and then just run along the track for bits too unwieldy to put not the table saw. No clamping and blade (relatively) safely unexposed. Not cheap compared to a simple circular saw though.

If price needs to be minimised I'd go for: panel cutting software (free), a woodyard with (ideally) a panel saw willing to make multiple cuts to a plan, a good quality handsaw (I find you can make far straighter cuts with a little patience than you ever can with a jigsaw).
 
I am just reading and thinking. I have nothing smart to say and don't want to interfere. Thanks again for sharing ideas.
 
buy a circular saw and use it to build a a table to house the circular saw.

What blade do you use, Derek, to cut Recticel when you're making rigid insulation hives. I could use my table saw with a 10" blade, which is quite thick, but it seems to be overkill - I suppose a "fine " blade would give a neater job and still cut easily.

CVB
 
Oops, apologies to millet. Yes, I was wrong (my portable Stanley ten inch rotated to cut downwards when fixed upside down as a table saw, so must cut towards upwards when used as a portable), but it, like my previous two, does not have any riving knife. My table saw is fitted with one and I do keep that on, unless grooving timber - usually with blind grooves. The wedge trick was used for years when the portable was regularly used fitted as a table saw, before the table saw replaced it. No riving knifeo th Ed Wadkinradial saw either, as I recall - sure would have got in the way, or at least done nothing , with the dado cutters.
 
I am not skilled in wood working. I make my own mnucs, but old good jigsaw I had can't do the job any more. I cut pieces from plywood.
Due to limited funds, I can't buy both. What at your opinion would be proper tool for such work ( plywood width from 15-20mm - short pieces for mnucs). I plan to build about 30 of mnucs.
Jigsaw or hand circularsaw? Cause I intend to buy again jigsaw, but one man told me that plywood is hard for jigsaw..
Also I cannot buy Makita, Bosch or so would Skill be decent or even Einhell.
Please don't feel that you have to give extra wide explanation, just short one will be OK. Advice is advice..

The key to cutting is the quality of the blade. I have always tried to buy the best quality tools I could afford even if it took longer to get there.
As a result I have a Bosch jigsaw and a good selection of Bosch or Makita blades. Along the journey through the years I also bought a secondhand ELU flip table saw with a TCT blade. This does suffer a bit of wear which makes setting up slower than it should but retirement means I have time to accommodate this.
The majority of my usage is on the ELU in its tablesaw guise. I found that it is essential to have a support for the overhang when cutting down big sheets of ply. Proper freestanding devices with a ball bearing on top are available but I use a B&D workmate that I found at a car boot sale with a plank clamped in the jaws.
Care and patience at second hand sales can save a fortune when buying tools but some are cosmetically challenged :) you need to look past the paint to the underlying metal.
 
I unexpectedly solved my problem. It turn out that my cousin has hand circular saw. Yesterday I draw lines for 12 mnuc bodies and today in a short time he cut it all. Since Murphy laws are following me as black cloud.. I couldn't believe that I had such luck.. :party:
I have a plenty of ply available, now I am greedy.. :drool5:
 
R*tlands has a "clamp edge guide" available (aluminium straight edge with adjustable jaws and a clamp lever at the other end) which I found works well with a cordless circular saw to cut plywood sheets accurately to size. Hope this helps.
 
R*tlands has a "clamp edge guide" available (aluminium straight edge with adjustable jaws and a clamp lever at the other end) which I found works well with a cordless circular saw to cut plywood sheets accurately to size. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the sharing, considering. But in a meantime I am in the process of building some ( with huge help for cutting, I did some minor part of cutting so far). Makita circular saw.
Luckily are small pieces and if some milimeter here or there, won't be a problem. This way, cost me time and money for some wood screws, glue, electricity.. Ply I have plenty. So chosing between time and higher amount of money ( which I don't have plenty) in this matter so far I choose time.
One mnuc of type I want to buy would cost little less than 30 euros, so worth to make look alike..
 

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