Jigsaw or circularsaw

[Millet]

I've just seen Millet's post - which shows a Riving Knife. But it is NOT a guide (although could certainly be used as such) - it is a separator.

Thank you for the correct name but IMO its is of no use separating cuts but it sure helps when cutting long straight lines.

 

[Plenty of honey]

Forgot to post how it looked of my amateur made by jigsaw..

well they look good!! use what you have i would say, !!

 

[Goran]

Valuable infos about safety, since I am not familiar with these. I know some people lose their fingers, fists.. with some saws.. Caution all the time..
Poh, thanks. I just copy paste big box and quatered dimensions, half frames I bought and some one beek friend gifted me. If you believe me, I don't have dimensions, when making new one again copy paste previous ( how proffesional of me..). Same I did with nuc and double nuc.. First of boxes I made was double nuc, too tight I made and clumsy - I dislike it..

 

[Shoot]

saw type--

recommend a hand saw if your inexperienced....

this is what a circular saw does in the hands of a tradesman.....

 

[REDWOOD]

saw type--

recommend a hand saw if your inexperienced....

this is what a circular saw does in the hands of a tradesman.....

cowboy,

 

[oliver90owner]

Rubbish, I would say, re riving knife on a hand held circular saw.

Yes, a riving knife should be fitted as a safety feature on a table saw, but on that circular saw - I don't think so.

Just look at the blade. Which way does the blade of a hand held circular saw enter the wood? Not upwards, I would suggest!

Neither poster seems to be aware of the workings of these items. Yet another case of postings from those who are, err, ignorant of the workings of these tools.

By all means, correct me if I am wrong. It does happen sometimes.

All(?) Saws cut into the material, so the chippings fall below/beyond the workpiece and away from the operator. Chain saws might be an exception?

That 'riving knife' would be in front of the cut - not an entirely satisfactory plan!

It is actually a blade guard, operated manually by the short handle on the operator's left side of the machine. It will automatically cover the blade after the cut is completed - a very useful safety item.

There is no riving knife on (most, if not all) hand-held circular saws.

The often-practised conversion of a hand held circular saw to fit a table will be short of the riving knife safety feature, but a wedge placed in the cut, to avoid pinching the blade is a sensible precaution that can be employed.

Cross cuts do not generally require a riving knife, particularly on beehive parts where the cut is insufficient to pass the blade before completion.

 

[Millet]

Rubbish, I would say, re riving knife on a hand held circular saw.

Yes, a riving knife should be fitted as a safety feature on a table saw, but on that circular saw - I don't think so.

Just look at the blade. Which way does the blade of a hand held circular saw enter the wood? Not upwards, I would suggest!

Neither poster seems to be aware of the workings of these items. Yet another case of postings from those who are, err, ignorant of the workings of these tools.

By all means, correct me if I am wrong. It does happen sometimes.

All(?) Saws cut into the material, so the chippings fall below/beyond the workpiece and away from the operator. Chain saws might be an exception?

That 'riving knife' would be in front of the cut - not an entirely satisfactory plan!

It is actually a blade guard, operated manually by the short handle on the operator's left side of the machine. It will automatically cover the blade after the cut is completed - a very useful safety item.

There is no riving knife on (most, if not all) hand-held circular saws.

The often-practised conversion of a hand held circular saw to fit a table will be short of the riving knife safety feature, but a wedge placed in the cut, to avoid pinching the blade is a sensible precaution that can be employed.

Cross cuts do not generally require a riving knife, particularly on beehive parts where the cut is insufficient to pass the blade before completion.

I'm not sure what you mean but the circular saws i have used over the years are pretty safe to use as long as you hold them with both hands, they cut in a upward motion and blow most of the sawdust out the hole pointed at.

The chainsaw if using the bottom of the bar too cut, blows the sawdust down towards the ground from the back of the sprocket cover, if using the top of the bar too cut it blows the saw dust away from you.

 

[bpmurray]

The wood shop made a rough cutting plan, took out the 4 mm for the width for the saw blade and Bingo, now i have a plan i use again and again.
Even though ply is expensive, it lasts well, and is very easy to assemble.
I priced it all up, against making my own , from wood, with all the machinery and it terms of time you win easily. You can put 10 nucs together in 5 or 6 hours.

Would you be willing to share your plan? That stack of wood looks cut to perfection!

 

[Little John]

Rubbish, I would say, re riving knife on a hand held circular saw.

You just couldn't make it up .....

He doesn't understand - so therefore it must be the case that other people don't understand ! Such delusions of grandeur are an indication of an impending schizophrenic illness, so you'd better keep taking those tablets ...

Think I'd better write and advise Makita, and all the other hand-held circular saw manufacturers that there's no need to fit riving knives to their saws anymore - there's an authority on the subject on an amateur beekeeping site who says so. Think of the money they'll be saving by eliminating this completely unnecessary component. Prat.

LJ

 

[wessexmario]

By all means, correct me if I am wrong. It does happen sometimes.

Yes, you most definitely are. Very wrong.

Just look at the blade. Which way does the blade of a hand held circular saw enter the wood? Not upwards, I would suggest!

In fact it does, the forward cutting edge of a hand held circular saw cuts upwards towards the sole plate.
If you just look at the blade you'll see the small hardened teeth on the forward cutting edge of each blade.
If it rotated the other way, it would push the saw upwards, which would be dangerous, difficult to control, and not produce a very perpendicular or straight cut.

All(?) Saws cut into the material, so the chippings fall below/beyond the workpiece and away from the operator. Chain saws might be an exception?

The cuttings on a hand held circular saw are first thrown upwards, deflected up and back by the blade guard and either collected in a duct off the rear of the guard or ejected downwards at the rear of the blade.
Chainsaws cut with the chain rotating forwards on top and backwards underneath - which is the cutting edge. (I can speak with authority on this subject as I'm a qualified chainsaw operator).

Neither poster seems to be aware of the workings of these items. Yet another case of postings from those who are, err, ignorant of the workings of these tools.

A distinct case here of pot calling kettle black me thinks.
.

 

[Millet]

Yes, you most definitely are. Very wrong.


In fact it does, the forward cutting edge of a hand held circular saw cuts upwards towards the sole plate.
If you just look at the blade you'll see the small hardened teeth on the forward cutting edge of each blade.
If it rotated the other way, it would push the saw upwards, which would be dangerous, difficult to control, and not produce a very perpendicular or straight cut.



The cuttings on a hand held circular saw are first thrown upwards, deflected up and back by the blade guard and either collected in a duct off the rear of the guard or ejected downwards at the rear of the blade.
Chainsaws cut with the chain rotating forwards on top and backwards underneath - which is the cutting edge. (I can speak with authority on this subject as I'm a qualified chainsaw operator).


A distinct case here of pot calling kettle black me thinks.
.

I would have liked to have the patience, to type my reply like that, you are 100% correct with everything.

 

[wessexmario]

yep, it's ok learning stuff from a book or a website, but there's only one way to really know something and that's to do it.
I'd love to have been given the opportunity to teach the correction of that mistake by experience, by giving him a circular saw that had been "fixed" to rotate the opposite way.

I do get quite annoyed when people teach incorrect facts.
If you want to do someone a dis-service, then withhold information from them.
But if you really want to screw their brain, teach them something that is incorrect. It is REALLY difficult for the human mind to unlearn something, more difficult than learning it in the first place.

 

[mbc]

Can't be arsed reading through the thread but if anyone's stated that circular saws are best for long straight cuts and jigsaws for wiggly ones then I agree.

 

[Plenty of honey]

Would you be willing to share your plan? That stack of wood looks cut to perfection!

I certainly wood (lol) seriously, its drawn out on a crappy bit of paper so will try and photo it. But also its for Dadant Nucs and i was just saying that its possible to become really efficient if you plan out the cutting. That way you waste minimal amount and it becomes worth using expensive ply because every piece is straight and precise. It is cut to perfection.

If you look at the pics, the largest pieces are for the two sides, theres ten bases, their to the rear middle pile and the end pieces are 20 x 30, their there too.

If you look at my video of "how to make a Dadant 5 framed nuc, you will see me putting them together. however will try and post pic of the cutting plan.please bear in mind its different sizes for your nationals, but its the principle thats important.

https://youtu.be/MAoO19hJtYU

 

[Millet]

yep, it's ok learning stuff from a book or a website, but there's only one way to really know something and that's to do it.
I'd love to have been given the opportunity to teach the correction of that mistake by experience, by giving him a circular saw that had been "fixed" to rotate the opposite way.

I do get quite annoyed when people teach incorrect facts.
If you want to do someone a dis-service, then withhold information from them.
But if you really want to screw their brain, teach them something that is incorrect. It is REALLY difficult for the human mind to unlearn something, more difficult than learning it in the first place.

 

[charlievictorbravo]

...

If you look at my video of "how to make a Dadant 5 framed nuc, you will see me putting them together. however will try and post pic of the cutting plan.please bear in mind its different sizes for your nationals, but its the principle thats important.

https://youtu.be/MAoO19hJtYU

Thanks for making the videos. I particularly like the idea of making the floor demountable for cleaning etc. Also, the staples preventing the frames from moving was a good idea. I see what you mean about having your wood cut in the woodyard - the cuts were clean with no splinters or splits. My table saw has a 250mm dia. blade and the teeth-points are about 20mm apart. Would this be a ripping blade or a cross-cut blade and would that account for the splinters when cutting plywood? In other words, what's the best blade for plywood?

I know the bees will propolise the inside but any bee enclosures that I make, I cover the inside with bee varnish - basically, it's any old lumps of propolis mixed with metholated spirits in a jar and shaken regularly (whenever I walk past) so that you have a brown liquid. It dries hard on the wood, the meths smell disappears after a day or two and it smells of propolis, which the bees like. It's what Stradivarius used on his violins and if it's good enough for him .....

CVB

 

[Plenty of honey]

Thanks CVB, I did the video a couple of years ago now. a bit of fun. Its not perfect, and since I've been on the forum and seen other ideas theres plenty more i would like to change and do. Thats my philosophy here, were all sharing stuff. Not all of it works for sure!!
Re the saw blade, whenever we have anything to cut to a fine cut with no chafing bits we use a new, sharp and not worn. I am pretty low on knowledge of blades, but as far as i have ever worked out, to a certain extent the rule goes, the more teeth the finer the cut. Same thing as hand saws. But... we use rip saw blades on the circular saw I've been using. keep a sharp one for a better finish. hope that helps.

Thats why i go and get all mine cut at the wood shop. Ive only just had access to a rebater etc at my mates workshop, however i will still continue to get nucs cut out of ply. I reckon its cheaper if you work out the time to takes to rebate all wood wear, then fit all the bits together. The ply also makes a really good finish once painted
I've included the cutting plan i use each time i get a sheet or two cut.
I would imagine in industry there must be a program that calculates cutting plans, when cutting things from metal and wood., would be logical to minimise wastage obviously.
BP Murray
As I said in previous posts this only to show and give an idea its for my Dadant nucs. However it gives you an idea of how to work out cuts, and take out saw blade dimensions, its pretty easy stuff.

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=12723&stc=1&d=1456343654

 

[bpmurray]

Thank you - that's really useful. All I need to do is transpose it to National sizes (once I get time - I think there are 25 hours in the day on Saturday).

 

[Plenty of honey]

Thank you - that's really useful. All I need to do is transpose it to National sizes (once I get time - I think there are 25 hours in the day on Saturday).

I am sure it can be done, work out what you need in terms of pieces, then go to pen and paper, before you order the wood or go to your local wood store.
Make sure you find out the diameter of the blade they will be cutting with!! You might just get an extra nuc!! you can never have too many, thats what i say!!
Forgot to say I am on a very limited budget too!! but starving kids is nothing when i need nucs!!

 

[bpmurray]

I found a program online that lays out the sizes onto the sheet (or sheets) you have - I just laid out 4 national nucs on a single sheet of plywood.